Hello all. I have an issue with my driver window going down, but not back up. I took out the switch and cleaned it with contact cleaner, but still the same problem. The connector and switch is a bit loose whereas the other switches and connecters are snug. It goes down but not back up. Switch or connector?
Thanks!

 

Back in the day when those cars were newer, we would often replace the master window switch on the 960, 850 and early S70. They gave problems when they were 10 years old, let alone 20+.

Last time I checked they were not very expensive coming from the Volvo dealer. That's your best, easiest solution.

 

Thanks. I ordered one. Hopefully it'll do the trick.

 

I replaced the switch and it worked once to power the window back up as it was stuck down. Now it won't move at all, all other windows work from master switch. All I hear is a click coming from the relay when drivers window is pressed. Is this relay only for the drivers window? Most likely bad relay? Thanks

 

Then it is not the switch. The relay operates all four; the problem must be in the regulator then. Take off the door panel, apply power directly to the motor and see what happens.

 

I am not quite sure how to do that. Any chance you could explain it to me? Thanks

 

You need to remove the door panel and expose the openings so that you can see the plugs to the window motor. My most common failure on those older Volvos was the switch itself. But, you might have a motor with a dead spot. Since you have to remove the door panel, you need to make sure that the regulator is working okay.

I think at this point that you can take the switch out of the loop and that's an important part of the diagnosis. It doesn't sound like you have voltage meters or anything to check for power and grounds.

We had a low mileage Corvette that did the same thing. I'm bringing it up because the principle is the same. My buyer was convinced that it was a bad switch since the car had only 19k original miles. I suspected the motors due to age.

I bought the entire motor/regulator assembly for low cost and replaced both sides. Windows worked fine.

Perhaps someone can help you test the motors? That's what I did on the Corvette to confirm that they were dead.

 

Do you think I should just take a chance buy a used regulator as it doesn't seem to be the switch or relay?

 

Thanks for that. I do have a volt meter but am kinda clueless as how to use it.

 

Well - here's some basic advice. Start with the key on and the motor unplugged and look for a 12 volt signal on each pin with the switch active. While checking for voltage, release the switch and the voltage should drop to zero.

Then, check the other wire on the connector when you work the switch the other way. The third wire is a ground. You can check that by using continuity to ground.

My guess is that you will be able to get the 12 volt signal and continuity to ground. If so, then remove the regulator and motor assembly. You can try spraying the inside of the motor with silicone spray to try and get it to work again if you can find an opening.

If you get that far and get it to work, keep in mind it might be short lived. If not, replace the motor.