Bobby; thanks for the honest assessment of your skill level; that helps me understand how to phrase my instructions.

But I need to know if you have access to a VOM (volt-ohm-meter) that works and that you know how to use it. If not, you're better off taking it to someone (maybe your mechanic buddy?) who knows how to trouble-shoot electrical problems.

If you do have access to a VOM, suggest you proceed as follows:

1. Locate the driver's side Duct Temperature Sensor via the diagrams in that doc referenced in post #19.
2. Pull sensor out from dash and disconnect the two pin connector from it.
3. Look at the connector; should be yellow wire and brown wire going to it (per the schematic). Caveat: that schematic is for '95 MY; may not be exactly same for your '93.
4. Ck the resistance of sensor (with VOM on resistance scale) across the two terminals; should be (per doc) 8K-12K ohms. If it is, then continue. If it is not in that range (esp if it is significantly less than 8K) then you found your problem; replace the sensor and clear the faults.
5. With VOM (on resistance ohm scale) ck that brown wire at sensor connector has 0 ohms to ground. Shout back if it doesn't.
6. Disconnect the ECC connector (if more than one, disconnect the one with the C1 terminal, or just all of them).
7. With VOM (on resistance ohm scale) ck that yellow wire at sensor connector has infinite ohms to ground. If it doesn't, this wire is shorted to ground somewhere along its run; it only runs between the sensor and terminal C1 on the ECC connector.

Again; let us know what you find.

 

In a situation like this being Dec/Jan it might be worth it to take it in. But you would need a voltmeter preferably a digital one DVOM as they are easier to read.

 

Where can I purchase a Driver's Side Air Duct Sensor? I've done a Google search and can't find anything. Instead of doing all of the testing, if it's throwing the code then if it's not real expensive then I'll just go ahead and replace it. I'm not too sure about going to a jy because of not knowing if it works or not.

 

Not positive but my guess is that it is a dealer item. I would take my VOM to the JY and yank one or more; test them right there..

But have you tested yours first? Is it bad? Replacing it if it's not bad isn't going to fix anything..

 

Dealer, I think the part number is 9145736 but I'd ask to make sure.

or

1994-1997 Volvo 850 Turbo ACC Cabin Temperature Sensor

or

Temperature sensor. Volvo # 9145736

Maybe you should try Bing

 

OK, so after going back and looking at all of the responses to my posts, I went out to my Volvo to check a couple of things. My Airmix button wasn't closed, and that seems to be why I wasn't receiving ANY heat. BUT PLEASE UNDERSTAND MY STUDPIDITY, MY BUDDY TALKED ME INTO THIS VOLVO, THIS IS MY FIRST, SO I DIDN'T UNDERSTAND THE DIFERENT CONTROLS. However, It's still blowing nothing but cold through the driver's side vents, so I still have this issue. I DO APOLOGIZE, ONCE AGAIN FOR MY STUPIDITY. So, I still have to address this issue.

 

No apologies needed. We learn as we try to help people like you. The car has several sensors, even at the hand grips at the roof.

 

The reason I always ask about the "Air Mix" is I ran mine the first winter with it open and freezing my feet along with other things (Minnesota!). I had no clue what it did and though I had a blend door or door motor out and didn't have a warm place to do any diag on it.

What you have to remember is that the quality of the answer will be in direct proportion to the quality of the question so if you do a little research and get a grip on some terminology you're more likely to get a better answer.
Having said that, everyone here has probably at one time or another answered a question (or asked) about the thing at the top of the engine with the electrical connector ??? All I can do is come back with a lot of questions and maybe pictures to figure out which of the twenty things with a "connector" that might be.

But stupid, No. You're asking, listening and reposting trying to get to your problem. Like Rspi said, we learn as we try to help people.

 

LOL...

What RSPI and Kfrog said. Actually we're the dumb-butts for not asking if you had the fresh air vents closed. I was mainly chasing the 1-3-1 fault code (since that's how i get my jollies.. by debugging things..).

 

Hey !! I did ask him about 15 posts ago. Managed to get him half heat

 

Duly noted!! Apologies to Kfrog

 

So, now I have HALF HEAT. Just not heat coming out of the driver side vents. Is this going back to the 1-3-1, or driver side sensor short? Also, it seems when the control **** is placed on Defrost nothing is coming out. Any suggestions, besides a bullet...lol And YES Kiss4aFrog you did suggest it.

 

You're RIGHT Kiss4aFrog, you did ask me, and I didn't pay attention. So, I now have heat on the passenger side of my car by still don't have heat on the driver's side of my car. Is that because of the Driver's side Sensor being Shorted? Also, I've NEVER asked this before but I'm missing the button that switches the mode of the Interior Lights of my car and it's currently switched in the OFF position. So, I have NO Interior Lights WHATSOEVER. Is their a "Redneck"(LOL) way of using like pliars or something to switch it over or do I have to have that Switch? Sorry to OVERLOAD you with STUPID questions, but like I said I'm a newbie and didn't see anything in the Newbie link.

 

LMAO, The only reason I know is I spent the better part of a Minnesota winter with no heat on either side because that switch was open It's placed strategically behind the steering wheel so it's blocked from your line of sight.

You have yet to venture into "Stupid".

Are you talking about the dimmer switch above the headlight switch
Dash Dimmer Switch Replacement, Volvo 850