Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

1994 850 Lower Control Arm

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Old 04-04-2008, 08:02 PM
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Default 1994 850 Lower Control Arm

This is my firs time, so go easy on me boys.
So.....I replaced the lower right control arm on my 94 850 because the old bushings were shot. I put ina used one with tighter bushings and had to really squeeze the bushings up into the flanges welded to the frame. Seems that the bushings should fit snug, but not that tight so that they swivel on the bolts. Anyway, they're in and the front is much tighter, but I'm thinking about those bushings and how they fit so tight between the mounts. Are they too tight? I know they are the right ones, because I took them out of a wrecked 94 myself.
Next question. After the job was done and I drove it for a road test, the ABS started going bananas. Like going on all the time every time step on the brake. Did I tap the ball joint to0 hard and move the wheel sensor or jar something loose in the hub? I'll gladly take the thing out, pull it apart, whatever. What do I check first?
Thanks. Great forum.
 
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Old 04-04-2008, 11:06 PM
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Default RE: 1994 850 Lower Control Arm

Your experience with getting the new bushings into the frame is typical.

The new bushings will fit very tight, I'm at my cabin at the moment but working on memory the two bolts to the frame torque to around 55lb/ft +120°.

Here is the secret to life - the bolts should be torqued while the car is in its rested position on the ground.

Personally, I look at trying to climb under the car - on the ground - and torquing down the bolts as a real pain in the ****.

The way I do it is toloose fit everything except the ball joint bolt - the car is on a jack stand for the side I am working on or jack stands if I am working on both sides - at this point and I use a floor jack to raise the center of the hub to the point where it, more or less, lines up with the bottom door seam by eye.

At that point I torque it down plus the specified angle - Check the manual since I am working on memory for the proper specs.

Never try to torque it down with the car jacked up and the suspension hanging. Doing so will destroy your new bushings.

Why on earth did you buycontrol arms out of a wreck?Good God, they could be ScanTechs [>:]. You can buy brand new OEM Volvo control arms for under $65.00 each - shipped - at www.volvopartsclub.com.

As far as you ABSgoes, start pulling codes from port A-3 and post them back. You may have just irritated a connector in the process of changing the arm.

...Lee
 
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Old 04-05-2008, 08:08 AM
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Default RE: 1994 850 Lower Control Arm

I hope you've used the correct arm; later re-designed arm is steel and comes with integral ball joint, but the older one is of aluminium and has replaceable ball joint (which I like better). Also make sure you've reattached the ABS wheel speed sensor connector and did not damage the pulser teeth while worked in the area (they also get dirty easily). See attached for torque specs.

In addition to the manual:

(1) Tighten additional 120 degrees.
(2)" 60 degrees.
(3) " 90 degrees.


JPN

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/14DEC3934C56474BAC251A0DF3ECAC49.jpg[/IMG]
 
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Old 04-05-2008, 09:51 AM
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Default RE: 1994 850 Lower Control Arm

Almost every FWD car I have ever weorked on had really tight bushings in the front end. I have not yet replaced them on an 850, but your experience sounds typical.
 
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