hi -well I got the car home! Had just bought it and very soon noticed that every time I turned the car off, the blower remained on (for longer than I thought it should). Brought this to the attention of at least 4-5 people who witnessed this and said it was normal, but I still thought not. I was cleaning the car and had all the doors open -could still hear the fan on after about 45 mins. I went to turn on the car and the battery was dead (yet the blower was still running!). Called AAA battery service. By the time the guy arrived, the blower had stopped. Battery tested bad, no issues with anything drawing from the battery. But I suspected that since the blower had shut off...that it wouldn't test as drawing from the battery. New battery installed. Drove 15+ miles and back at home, shut off the car and the blower remained running. After 45 mins...I tried to think of something I could do because I thought if this thing kept running, it may run down the new battery by the morning. So I started the car and then turn it off right away...and the blower cut off (phew!). I've read an old thread related to this issue, so I have some clues that it may be a relay or resistor? I'd appreciate any suggestions/advice -please and thanks !!

Pam

 

When you say "blower" are you referring to the blower for the climate control or the fan in the front of the car that sucks air through the condenser, intercooler, radiator, etc?

1995Volvo850

 

Usually resistor or relay at the fuse box.

 

I'm going to guess it's the heater / AC blower motor.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=46436

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=46189

Blower Resistor Repair Guide 850/s,v70 - FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior - Volvospeed Forums

 

Fan in front. Meanwhile, we disconnected it so that it wouldn't run down the battery

 

Likely a bad ECT:

 

tks much for the info! It apparently is the fan so I shouldn't have added blower!

 

okok but wouldn't I be getting a dummy light on that?

 

Engine cooling fan is under the hood.

Blower motor is in the dash & helps cool the cabin climate.

 

very excellent, tks so much! Might as well replace the thermostat at the same time? Now to me, it seems as though the car is running hotter than it should. The temp gauge has been steady at slightly above midway (should be slightly lower). And I thought I've heard some gurgling/boiling more than I should. What would I expect if both the ECT and thermostat are bad....wouldn't the fan not run at all? I don't believe the fan is running that long to cool things down. Do you know how long the fan should normally be running after shutting off the car? tks!

 

Normal operation is pretty much the same for turbo, non turbo, modified .... it should sit at about 3 O clock.

If either the relay or temp sensor is bad it might overheat. If both are bad it SHOULD overheat.

If you see a gurgling or bubbling in the expansion tank on the passenger fender you might have a bad head gasket and you need to address that as soon as possible. Left as is it will get worse and can get to the point it costs you an engine should it overheat someplace you can't get out of traffic soon enough.

There are kits you can get from auto parts stores to check to see if there is exhaust (hydro carbons) in the coolant. It's a very quick and easy test and the tool is a loaner, the fluid you need to buy.


My radiator blower motor in the front of the car turns off when I shut the car off.

 

Thanks again for all the info! And it was....the relay switch! Easy fix. Having A/C fixed (hopefully) on Sat. Not liking some loud noises the car is making after I drive it 200 miles.

 

I'm suffering same now - my preggy wife is not a happy woman right now.
D'you have/remember the relay part # by chance? And where is it, under the hood next to the fuses?

Thx.