I'm holding back the full excitement I would like to feel for this 150k '93 green beauty because it came with broken lights (found replacements), broken hazard switch (found replacement), broken sunroof (dropped down at rear, doesn't leak but can't open or close; motor works but drive gear stripped), radio hacked out (I have the original; thief went after the upgrade that was installed); and a broken front strut (still corners fine). BUT all the core mechanics seem solid and it is smooooooth, responsive enough (my tire smoking days are long past).

Timing belt looks good; supposedly only 7 months old; water pump, too. Not sure if they did the idlers, seals, etc.

Tires are good, wheels are nice, it "feels" the road for sure but this car likes to be driven, not just aimed — vehicular attitude. I like that.

Picked up 6 qts of Amsoil yesterday and a filter — on the to do list for this weekend. I think I'll treat the 5 speed tranny to some Amsoil too.

QUESTIONS
It has an alarm system built in, too, and the little light on the dash blinks when it's locked from outside. Not sure if alarm works. Does anyone know how to test it?

HELP. The SUNROOF is challenging me harder than I would like (probably the last straw for the previous owner). Back edge is down about an inch from roof opening and it won't move up or down, forward or back. Probably jammed in the track. As I said, drive gears seem stripped. I'd just like to get it closed and tight, so no leaks; don't need it operational. I've checked the links here and elsewhere, but couldn't find one that specifically addresses one with roof glass that's jammed and dropped. The interior cover slides easily to full open and close, so that's not a problem.

I'd like to protect the finish (which is quite good for a 15 year old). I'd appreciate any suggestions. I realize there are many products out there, but what's best w/o professional clear-coating or other major investment? How about touch up painting; brush bottle, spray? Kind?

This is the first time in years I've actually wanted to go for a ride just to drive around, so I'm really looking forward to getting this new arrival in the best shape possible for a hopefully dependable and pleasurable ride.

I welcome any suggestions!

Onward and upward.

Jim Bee

 

Hi Jim,

I have moved this thread from New Members Area.

First of all, see my 1st & 2nd replies in the following thread for general servicing info:

https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm

The sunroof is probably suffering from degraded ABS plastic portion. I would remove the glass (held by several Torx screws) and visually inspect the track.

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/sunroof.php

I would use generic exterior wax (Turtle wax, etc...) to protect the paint job. I have not used anything fancy (those that are like $20+/bottle; I am cheap). I usually do this at every 6 months. A power buffer really helps if you are no longer in your 20s[8D].

As to touch up paint, I would use genuine Volvo product (yes, $$$). One problem with those paints is that they dry too fast and get sticky on the brush. I know there is a English-made chemical that neutralises rusty spots or just chipped sections. If you can find this, I would use this first then do touch up with paint.

Stick to the OEM parts as much as you can. Volvos hate being treated with non-OEM parts and the extra $$$ for OEM parts is really worth it.

Other members would be replying with loads of answers too...


JPN

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/0AFC64D8156143D8B2A002011A22F464.jpg[/IMG]

 

Sounds to me like JPN pretty much covered it to start. Especially the part about using OEM parts.

 

The best way to check your alarm is to sit inside the car and lock it using keyfob and wait about 10-20 seconds for it to get activated. and then:
1 -try to start the car with key OR
2- unlock the driver door by pulling the **** up and open the door

Both the conditions should trigger the alarm. You can mute it using one of the button un the fob again (I dont remember if any button will do the job or only lock or unlock is going to do it)

IF YOU DONT HAVE KEYLESS ENTRY - You can do this test by opening the driver window and standing outside and locking the car with key.

Hope this helps - Cheers!

 

Thanks, guys. I must be missing something re the sunroof. Mine is stuck down at the rear about an inch so that none of the screws or mechanism along the sides are visible or as far as I can see accessible from below or above. The cover underneath slides freely, so it can be fully opened. The repair pic I viewed shows the glass risen at one end, so the screws are visible/accessible. Instructions are "begin with the roof in the up position". Trouble is, mine's stuck down, can't move it in any direction. Today, it was windy and the roar was deafening and drafty at freezing temps. I definitely need to get it fixed. I stopped to chat with the local Volvo service guy who told me they take down the whole headliner. ANY other suggestions short of that would be most appreciated. Let's get creative! Can I craft some sort of a tool to un-jam something? I haven't viewed a detailed enough clear image of the track mechanisms to know what I'm dealing with — pins, wheels, springs, grooves, cables and cable ends that might be jammed, etc.

One thought I just had: I tested the motor off its mount and could see the drive gear wasn't turning while the motor was, so the drive is shot (hand turning with screwdriver doesn't work because internals are stripped.). But I don't recall if I tried to move the SR glass while the motor was out — and gear disengaged. I'll try that tomorrow. Is there something else I can easily remove from the motor area that might free it up more so the SR glass might be manually moved? THANKS FOR IDEAS!!

I plan to test the alarm tomorrow. But question: if someone breaks a window and climbs in to take something (like the radio, which they did from the previous owner), and do not open the door, does the alarm trigger? I ask, because I have the original radio (the thief got her high end deck that was installed instead), but should I bother to install it, if I'm just inviting a proficient thief to break in, do the removal, then drop the radio out and climb back out w/o triggering the alarm? I don't want to invite that problem again along with the broken window and whatever other damage might result from the instrusion.

 

If the motor is out you should be ab;e to work the cables with a screwdriver. It is a pain but can be done. I had to do it to mine not long ago when I replaced my entire assembly. Or you can try to find a used motor and put it in.

For the alarm not it will ot go off if the glass is broke. It only works if the door is opened.

 

Well,

Thats is the only reason I havent installed a aftermarket CD player in mine because those are prone to be stolen where as none touches the stock CD or Cassate player. instead i found a very handy device that is plugged into my cigrate lighter and is tuned to the radio and desired channel/frequency and has a SD card (1Gb in my case) or a usb jump drive slots. i just dump muzik onto either SD card or USB jump drive and insert it into the slot and la la laaa.....
This also comes with remote and has got a decent backlit display which gives you a lot of information.........I posted just in case if someone is interested. Here is the link to see how it looks.
http://www.factorydirect.ca/catalog/...p?pcode=FM2000

 

Best Harry,

Thanks for the post. I have to confess I'm naive about things audio — so do I understand correctly that you use the cig lighter device ( which has your favorite recordings instead of an installed CD player, but you still have the original radio installed and it plays through that?

If so, is the sound quality high, medium, poor?

Jim Bee

 

You got it right JimBee,

The sound quility is not the best but very close to CD quality.I still like it although I am also very picky on the sound quality and frequency response from the audio system but comparing the haslte and stealabilityin get either a cd changer or aftermarket CD player in my car, This was the cheap and best alternative. I also believe that stock systems are designed and matched to speakers and therfore produce better results.

 

I got something like that too...I can the motor moving or trying to but it won't possibly a jam?
Is my only option to take it apart?

 

In another post, someone spoke about "zeroing" the sunroof motor. Inside the gear drive case (I guess, haven't had mine open), he says there are 3 cams that go through a cycle that begins with roof up, then down and back? If anyone, knows, please clarify.

If I understand this correctly, the start point of the motor's cams when the motor and cable drive gear are installed would need to be "timed" so as the motor goes through its cycle the window is in the correspondingly correct position. My sunroof glass does seem jammed, with the trailing edge down; but if the motor is out of sync, it wouldn't probably work right anyway. Right? I'm just ruminating, here.

Another member, mentioned that with his s-r motor removed, he was able to turn the cables with a screw driver and move the glass that way. I can't see how to do that in mine.

I still haven't been able to get the plastic strips off. Now that winter is setting in I'm feeling more motivated to try harder to solve this! If anyone can add details on how-to unjam the glass in its track, I would love to hear them.

 

With the motor out look straight up and you will see the cables. There is spaces between the metal wire looking band that is wrapped around the cable. You can stick the screwdriver between the spaces and hold pressure in and slide the cable. It might also go easier if someone is pressing up on the glass since the glass is down some.

 

Making progress on getting replacement parts as needed for this car. One of the things that puzzles me is when I've taken this car to a couple of repair shops to get estimates on fixing the sun roof, they seem to scoff at it and say things like, Hey, it's a thousand dollar car, sort of suggesting this is no great car. To me, this '93 which is very clean on the outside and pretty clean inside, drives and sounds like a real masterpiece of engineering, and has solid core mechanics and the control systems and everything seem to work pretty well (fingers crossed). Plus as a well cared for (I think) 150k miles and a reputation of running that far again if well cared for and gods favor it, man, if that car isn't worth a lot more than a grand, I don't know what might be.

Of course, I haven't driven new wheels; just getting rid of an '87 Nissan I hate to part with cuz the mechanics are solid and it's pretty clean, etc., but rusty underneath. At some point you have to part with them but it starts great, has always bathed in Amsoil so engine and tranny have no wear.

But interms of road feel, appearance, operating controls, and all the bells and whistles (which I hope continue to work) the Volvo is a great leap forward from the Nissan. So isn't this vehicle worth getting to full funcitionality and appearance with the expectation of running it a loooong time? I mean I feel PROUD to own and drive this car. NO I'm not weeping, but I do appreciate fine engineering.

NOW a couple of remaining issues: When the heat is on, I get great heat through the upper vents, but area around driver's feet stays cool regardless of what setting the selector is on. Any suggestions how I can fix this? With outside temps below freezing, it's uncomfortable to drive more than half hour due to cold feet.

SECOND: When I turn off the engine, there's a whirring sound for half a minute or so that I haven't noticed before. Any suggestions?

Thanks!