I have just replaced the ac compressor in my 97 850 GLT turbo. I would like to remove the orifice tube before flushing the system.

Could someone give me step by step instructions on the orifice tube removal and flushing of the system.

Thanks for your help.

 

It's hidden in a fitting on the high side line under a duct from the heater box to the ECM box.

Heres a thread on it:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11832



Flushing out your A/C tubes and hoses can be done while it's in your car.

There is a special type of cleaner called AC PRO Flush and Clean Solvent made by Interdynamics, it would evaporate if you let it dry and the residue is compatible with the R134 freon. Flushing requires regular shop air pressure around 90psi. There is also a can of the cleaner already pressurized with a hose. Thats the one I used. I'm not gonna get into how to charge the system but there is tons of info on the web to read on this.

Never flush the evaporater, accumulator/drier or condensor with any liquid though. If you have had catastrophic faluire of the compressor, These need to be replaced along with the compressor. Small metal particles can work there way into the condensor, and evaporator and stay there until the a/c gets charged again. Most stuff would be caught on the orifice tube screen and the accumulator/drier but the very small minot particle will not, they linger in the gas. If you wanna get it done right and do not want to lose any money on that expensive compressor, it's best to get it new or go to the junk yard, get the condensor and drier, clean them up and re-use them. Replacing the evaporators in our cars requires the removal of the entire dash, so it would be a pain to replace, you may wanna just take the chance and leave it alone.

Assuming you have the proper A/C gauges and vacuum pump for when your done, I'm not an A/C technician, and others please correct me if I'm wrong but this is the procedure I have done twice on other cars I've had when the whole switching from R12 to R134 was going on in the early 90's.

Before flushing, get 2 variety packs of A/C o-rings from car parts store.

you would need to loosen and take apart every hose connector, from the firewall to the accumulator/drier, to the condensor then to the compressor.

you would spray or pour (with a turkey baster) the cleaner into the hoses and lines on each side, meaning, you would put the cleaner into a hose from one entry point or fitting and also spray into the exit point fitting.

wait 5 minutes and then flush out the cleaner using compressed air the same way you put the cleaner in.

Tie a rag where the air and cleaner would be coming out and face away from it. The air coming out is at high pressure and a metal particle could come out and recochet then hit your eye.

when your done, put a new o-ring on each connecter then tighten but do not over tighten.

Use a good vacuum pump, buy 3 cans of R134.

Go to you-tube and look up how to properly vacuum and evacuate your a/c system

Our cars only hold 26oz of Freon, thats a little more than TWO 12oz cans of R134A .The 3rd can is if you really need it, but might get really cold with 2 cans.

Not sure if your 97 is like my 94 (it might be) but there is no High pressure service port, servicing would all be done through the low pressure side behind right front head lamp.

Let us know how you make out.

Good luck

 

When you replace the "O" rings in the system it's best not to touch them with your bare hands to keep the oil and dirt from them. It's also a good idea to first dip or coat them with AC oil before installation. Once they are coated you can handle them but it's still good to use gloves. Helps everything go back together smoother and easier. It also allows the O ring to slide instead of grab and "roll" which can tear it.

I guess I'm a little unclear why you can't flush your installed components but you can salvage yard ones ?? Being out of the car makes it easier but who's to say the salvaged ones didn't come from a system that had the compressor fail and maybe failed worse than yours ??

When you flush you are flushing oil out of the system. This oil needs to be replaced and either you need to flush it all out and add the total amount or you need to know how much each component holds (roughly) and add that amount. There are tables for this you can bing or google.

When you get a compressor new or rebuilt it usually comes full of oil and that oil needs to be drained out and a measured amount added back in.

 

"I guess I'm a little unclear why you can't flush your installed components but you can salvage yard ones ??"


Hey Kiss.....I highly repect your posts but I'm not sure if you really read what I posted or just glanced at it. Can you repost or quote onto where or who is claiming that?

Whenever I go to Salvage yards (believe me it's hard with my schedule) or even when I purchase used car parts online, I always clean off the dirt, leaves, oil stains off the part I just bought. I even repaint it sometimes. I never seen or even heard someone taking a used radiator or some used part from a JY and mounting it in a car without at least swiping a rag around it.

I may of mispelled a few words on what I wrote. The guy putting making up the thread was looking for a step by step process.

I'm having difficulty trying to understand what you were "unclear" on.

 

Never flush the evaporator, accumulator/drier or condenser with any liquid though. If you have had catastrophic failure of the compressor, These need to be replaced along with the compressor. Small metal particles can work there way into the condensor, and evaporator and stay there until the a/c gets charged again

get it new or go to the junk yard, get the condenser and drier, clean them up and re-use them.
(corrected spelling)


The accumulator and or drier has to go. Can't flush it properly because of the desiccant and once left open for a while they don't really work as effectively even after through evac.

But why not clean/flush the condenser and evaporator ?? If I misunderstood you I'm sorry.
I read your post and re-read your post again before answering and I think you're saying once metal is in the system the components are shot.

The purpose of the flush is to push out any foreign matter including metal that might be in the component. Usually it's the oil that binds it up but the flush brakes down the oil.
I would go with new if it's at all possible depending on the $$$ but if you can't I'd usually choose to clean the stuff I have rather than buy something unknown from the salvage yard. At least if it's the compressor that failed you know the other components aren't leaking.

If the compressor failed in that the insides shelled out as they say, the aluminum cylinder walls actually shed metal into the freon. It's best to splice in a filter before the orfice tube as without it if you missed any metal it will in very short time plug that orifice tube.

How to, different style in line filter: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=686807

 

Thanks, guys, for your info.

I've found and replaced the orifice tube after flushing and blasting air through the system.

Now, I've got to charge and check for leaks.