The oil cooler hoses to the radiator have been "weeping" at the joint of rubber to hard line for about 2 years now. They have finally started to leak significantly and leak along the body of the rubber hose itself.

Does anyone know the I.D. of the hoses? I would like to "cut off" the old hose and replace.

FCP has the hoses for like $110 EA !! Seems a waste to spend all that money on $20 worth of hose???

 

If you take a good look at the hoses, their connectors are special and the metal extensions are bent in a perticular way. I wouldn't try to replace them with anything generic or 'hand made', so I'd say (1) place a belt or stick in-between your teeth, (2) bite down hard (2) click the "Add to Basket" button. When you think about it, 200 bucks to ensure your oil is cooled off is much cheaper then engine failure!

 

how do you get the old lines off there isnt much room between the engine and fram rail to get to the torx bolt out from the front of the motor

 

The hose are just "crimped" on like a hydraulic or "aircraft" hose. I was only asking about the ID so I could source the hose ahead of time. I can have a local shop that does hydraulic hoses crimp on the new ones. OR depending on what the fittings look like with the hose off I might be able to do something myself.

$200 is a LOT of money considering that the only "bad" part is rubber hose.

I work at an Aircraft Manufacturer and teflon lined high pressure hose is readily available to me.

As a matter of fact I bet the Oil Pressure never exceeds 80 PSI so I probably could just "double clamp" it with Wide "Breeze" clamps and forget about it.

 

I have had them OFF before so it can't be that hard.

If worse came to worse I could also have a standard hydraulic or AN fitting welded on and use cheap and easily available lines.

Personally I think it is a pretty "Mickey Mouse" setup designed by Volvo to increase sales in o-rings, clamps and hoses.

For some reason the Tranny Side has had NO ISSUES?

I am wondering if some sort of "flush" or something was used by the previous owner and it "ate" away at the hose?

 

I think I remember that I used a Torx driver (3/8" drive) and breaker bar?

 

BTW,

I have nothing against FCP or anyone selling the parts for that much because they include all the fittings etc,

If you have the "know how" to replace only the hose you can save some $$$

The extra $180 or so will go towards lowering springs and new rear shocks.

 

how do you access it? there isnt much room to get to it even with the wheel off

 

I have a really long t-30 that I go from the front of the subframe. There is also a 10MM by the lower rear A/C comp bolt. It is a pain to get to.

Sorry I do not know the size off hand. I have not myself had any made yet. But when mine leak again I will have it done that way.

No one did anything to the car. It is a very common failure on the turbo cars.