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don't know if my timing belt has ever been changed, it has 94k miles and this is what the belt is/looks like. Is this the original belt or a replacement?

 

That is a replacement belt.

 

And that is the OEM belt as well. If you are concerned, check the roots at each tooth with a strong flash light to make sure that there are no cracks.


JPN

 

the teeth look fine to me. I just don't know what a timing belt with almost 100k miles looks like. I ordered one anyway yesterday, i can compare when it arrives i guess.

 

From what I see in the pics it looks pretty good.
Most likely someone replaced it at 70K.
It is an aftermarket belt but they make OEM belts if it hadn't been changed it would be a Volvo belt.

 

If in doubt....Change it out. It is not that expensive compared to a new motor if the belt breaks. Just my .02

 

Gosh darn, you can pay a meachanic to change that belt for about $200. (I just did.) It really is worth the peace of mind. If that belt goes, you may as well junk the car.

 

Hey there...how did you manage just to pay 200.00$$??? i once did a timing belt and water pump on one of my cars...came out to about 800.00$....which made me wonder...on volvo's is it like most cars that you also change the water pump at the same time? what else usually gets changed? any pulleys/tensioners??? thanks
fab

 

The genuine Volvo water pump is almost indestructible. Mine, however, had a minor seepage of coolant so I replaced with a German aftermarket (HEPU) pump.

Some components that may be replaced are:

- The idler pulley.
- The tensioner pulley (damn that Torx bolt[8D])
- The Hydraulic tensioner cylinder.
- The Water pump, only if it is leaking.


JPN

 

JPN thanks the reply...i didn't know the waterpump was that tough....i know that on most cars it's automatically done when changing the timing belt...I know that i'm not loosing any coolant but i notice on my dash that what when the engine is warmed up the needle is usually just a bit over the halfway mark...i'm thinking now that it could be the thermostat? thanks
fabs

 

The impeller seal went on mine at about 175k and standing for 6 months before i bought it. I presume it was the origional and there was no play in the bearing at all.

 

If the coolant temp gage is slightly above 3 O’clock, you could defer the thermostat. However, if it has never been replaced it is not a bad idea to replace it. Make sure to use the OEM unit. There is O-ring to the thermostat and no gasket. I used paste-type gasket on the mating surfaces, though.

Yes on most cars the water pump is done with the timing belt. My 1988 Accord LX-i was no exception.


JPN

 

Depends on the temp of the thermostat, I had an 87C in the car originally it was dead center now apparently Volvo only sells 90C and it's slightly above dead center, it kinda bothers me but I guess if everyone is buying 90C it shouldn't be an issue.

 

You overpaid...by a lot. I had my indy redo my timing belt for me and it was $430 that included the belt and the two pulleys, and another hour because I snapped an accessory belt tensioner bolt.

Standard procedure is every 70k to replace the belt every 140k to replace the tensioner, pulleys, and waterpump as well as the belt. But I think Volvo owners are kinda gunshy with pushing those items to their life limit because of the consequences if one item fails.

 

Wheelsup..thanks for the replies..so maybei have the 90c in my car then, cause it's just a tad above the center. Do they make lower temp thermostats for our cars? might be good for summer time.
as for the timing belt, I did pay a bit, but that was on my 91 eagle talon...awesome car, but mechanically a nightmare!! the belt snapped and bent some valves, i have never seen a tighter engine bay like the talon's it was soo tight. i guess i will have the pulley's and tensioners checked when i have to change it...
thanks again
fabs

 

Oh OK I assumed it was a Volvo you were referring too, obviously with different cars all bets are off.

They make an 87C as well. FCP sells it, as well as EeuroParts.com. A member on here looked up the T-stat info on his Volvo software and it said to use a 90C now. I highly doubt 3C will effect anything long term. In fact if I recall correctly an engine that runs a bit warmer actually runs better and builds up less sludge.

When I changed my belt the first time I put a new pump and pulleys in. My engine was quiet afterwards, where before it had a minor squak. The waterpump was also rough to spin, although I didn't notice until after I took it off the car. I'm glad I replaced all the items, not only does it sound better but I won't have to worry about them breaking down the road. A member on here recently had one of their pulleys explode while idling. His engine made it but he was lucky!