I have a 93 850 Glt with 222k miles, I replace the plugs/wires, cap and rotor change the oil trap and hoses. I checked the codes and there's no code other than 111. The car starts but when I step on the gas it stops and it feels like there's no reaction at all when the pedal is pressed.

Any help or info is greatly appreciated.

 

Did the car run ok before you replaced the parts or did you replace the parts trying to cure this problem?

 

My guess would be that you have a idle control valve problem. The throttle body has a switch on it, as soon as you push on the gas pedal the switch is activated and it tells the car to allow your foot to control the motor, along with that side of the computer. When you let off the gas the idle is totally controled by the computer and idle control valve. You may have a bad switch or idle control valve.

The other night my throttle body linkage came loose while I was driving and my car drifted to a stop with no control over the revs. Minor set back to me, I found the linkage loose real quick and zip tied it.

 

Check for rips or tares in the hose between the MAF and throttle body.

 

could a oil trap hose cause this?

 

If it starts ok, idles ok and then dies when you try to accelerate it sure sounds like a lack of fuel.
Will it die if you try to accelerate in park? Same if it's in drive?
If a vacuum line was bad it would be more apparent at idle. It sounds like as the throttle is opened it's letting in the air but the computer isn't putting in the gas so it bogs and dies.
Could be a bad spot on the throttle position switch (TPS) or a bad TPS but it should set a code.
Small chance the fuel filter is clogged and only allows a trickle through or the pump is going out and can't supply enough volume or pressure above idle. Or a fuel pressure regulator that is bleeding almost everything back to the tank. If it really was that weak you should also have an engine lean code.

 

It starts but hard and after it starts it idles only for about 5 to 10 sec. and slowly dies. at times when it is at idle I try to press the pedal (at Park) it dies immediately. The fuel filter has been replaced as part of the tune-up, I checked the fuel rail valve to see if there's fuel and there's a trickle but not much pressure. Would it be the FPR or the pump? I checked again if there's a code still no code other than 111.

 

Sounds like your fuel pump is going away, but you should bypass the fuel pump relay first to make sure it's not the relay. Or you could ck for voltage at the pump when it dies...

 

It might be a bit easier to get a fuel pressure gauge and attach it to the fuel rail. If that fails then go after the electrical.

 

Ok then, ....... I'd say it sounds like fuel. There isn't any way I know of that any of us can just tell you if it's the pump or regulator.

Number one, get a fuel pressure gauge so you know what the pressure is at when it's running.

Gdog said to jump the relay and that too could be a culprit in this drama. If the points that close to turn the pump on are badly burned over the years they might finally have enough resistance that there isn't enough voltage getting to the pump. In that case the pump isn't able to turn at it's designed speed and isn't able to give the engine enough pressure or volume of fuel to run properly.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=14733


(cut and paste from another thread)
You can run a search here for other ways of testing the Regulator. Here is Volvo's official version:

"Turn ignition on. Fuel pump should start. Fuel filler
cover can be removed to determine whether main pump is operating. Fuel
pressure should be about 43.5 psi (3.06 kg/cm  ). If pressure is too
low, pinch return hose by hand and check whether pressure rises. DO
NOT allow pressure to exceed 86 psi (6 kg/cm  ).
5) If pressure rises rapidly, pump and lines are okay.
Replace pressure regulator and recheck line pressure. If pressure
rises slowly, fuel filter, fuel pump strainer or fuel lines are
blocked. If pressure does not rise, fuel pump is probably faulty.
6) If pressure is too high, remove jumper wire between relay
or fuse terminals. Remove return hose from pressure regulator. Blow in
pipe. Remove vacuum hose from pressure regulator. Blow in pipe. If
both hoses are open, pressure regulator is defective. Replace
regulator and recheck pressure."
__________________

 

You can also read through this thread and take the next step:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...-stalls-55928/

 

Hello everyone;

Sorry for the late reply got really busy last month. I finally got the car working and the problem was the fuel pump so I replaced the fuel pump insert. I want to thank everybody for all the information and it sure did help me fixing the car.

Cheers!

 

I had the identical problem with my 1998 Volvo XC70.
Check the Fuel Pump Relay.
I found this inside this forum. See https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...p-relay-62945/
This turned out to be the culprit in my case.
I temporarily joined the 87 and 15 terminals on the fuel pump relay using a paper clip.
The problem went away immediately.
Once I solved the problem I replaced the relay.
Here is a photo of the relay with paper clip in place. Fuel Pump Relay with terminals 15 and 87 joined.

 

also note that if your fuel pump relay fails, its a pretty good bet that the fuel pump will fail shortly thereafter. (as the fuel pump wears out, it starts drawing more current and overheats the relay.)