Automatic Transmission In-Line magnetic filter kit
#1
#2
I'm not aware of any "kit". You purchase a filter, buy some clamps (fuel injection ones are better), cut the hose and install.
I don't know the ID of the cooler hose. You could buy both and have them on hand when you cut the hose and return the other.
5/16 or 3/8 Pretty sure it's not the 1/2" I'd guess 3/8
WIX 5/16 part #58964
Magnefine 5/16 R516M
Magnefine 3/8 R038M
Magnefine says it comes with clamps
Available at auto parts stores, summit racing ...
They also work for power steering, RETURN ONLY
I don't know the ID of the cooler hose. You could buy both and have them on hand when you cut the hose and return the other.
5/16 or 3/8 Pretty sure it's not the 1/2" I'd guess 3/8
WIX 5/16 part #58964
Magnefine 5/16 R516M
Magnefine 3/8 R038M
Magnefine says it comes with clamps
Available at auto parts stores, summit racing ...
They also work for power steering, RETURN ONLY
#5
$17.99 and it slides smoothly into place in your trans cooler line compared to creatively trying to "shadetree" engineer something ???
AND, if the oil filter, tube, magnet ... fails you have fluid everywhere, need to call a tow truck and may or may not have damaged the transmission.
$17.99 ... priceless (IMHO).
WIX 58964 - Magnetic In Line Filter | O'Reilly Auto Parts
But on your side I have often wanted to take the spin on GM Saturn transmission filter and find a way to use it on my cars. That internal filter is such a backwards way of doing it and it's such a pain to replace.
Can't count the times I've had a trans pan let go and had that wave of smelly burnt fluid (customer car) slosh on me.
Duralast/Transmission Filter (A/T) (TF99) | 1998 Saturn SC2 4 Cylinders 7 1.9L MFI DOHC | AutoZone.com
AND, if the oil filter, tube, magnet ... fails you have fluid everywhere, need to call a tow truck and may or may not have damaged the transmission.
$17.99 ... priceless (IMHO).
WIX 58964 - Magnetic In Line Filter | O'Reilly Auto Parts
But on your side I have often wanted to take the spin on GM Saturn transmission filter and find a way to use it on my cars. That internal filter is such a backwards way of doing it and it's such a pain to replace.
Can't count the times I've had a trans pan let go and had that wave of smelly burnt fluid (customer car) slosh on me.
Duralast/Transmission Filter (A/T) (TF99) | 1998 Saturn SC2 4 Cylinders 7 1.9L MFI DOHC | AutoZone.com
#6
17.99? not bad!
I was thinking it might cost more.
I guess that in addition to the filter a trans cooler mounted somewhere might be a killer solution.
BTW, this is what I was thinking of: remote A/T filter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-80277/overview/
I was thinking it might cost more.
I guess that in addition to the filter a trans cooler mounted somewhere might be a killer solution.
BTW, this is what I was thinking of: remote A/T filter
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-80277/overview/
Last edited by jose456891; 10-16-2013 at 12:47 PM.
#7
re
yea there is a kit for volvo 850 here: Derale Performance 13090 Remote Transmission Filter Kit
and video of the flow after installed here:
and video of the flow after installed here:
#8
Well , , , not exactly. It isn't for a 850, it isn't even for a Volvo. That is just a generic remote filter kit that will work on anything with a little imagination, location to mount it and some DIY skills.
I like the spin on design and it's a handy link but just don't want someone to think it's actually for an 850 and it bolts in. You would need to cut your transmission line to use this.
I like the spin on design and it's a handy link but just don't want someone to think it's actually for an 850 and it bolts in. You would need to cut your transmission line to use this.
#9
I would think twice about using any type of clamp on magnetic line filter. You want to use a throw away filter. If you add a magnetic filter to a line on the outside and it collects material on the inside of a line then you take the magnet away all that debris will take off through the system...sort of like a blood clot. Always use something that captures and can be removed.
#10
A nice trick if you have the screw on filter is to use magnets on it and then transfer the magnets AFTER you pull the filter to change it out. Works well on engine oil filters too.
They make a few different styles of magnets that are rounded to fit the filter. There are also magnets you can buy to toss into the filter.
They make a few different styles of magnets that are rounded to fit the filter. There are also magnets you can buy to toss into the filter.
#13
In line trans filter, CHEAP! and EFFECTIVE!
I bought a 2000 V70XC with a bad trans, (seems like they ALL have a bad trans!). What kills 'em is that there is no serviceable filter so sludge builds up and gums up the solenoids and the clutches fail.
It is this sludge, mostly debris from clutch pack wear that causes the overwhelming majority of trans problems. If you have metal bits floating around in there, you likely have other, more serious problems!
After replacing the transmission, I cut the feed line to the cooler and spliced in a remote oil filter housing that had been in my tool box for decades. There were even 2 convenient tapped holes in the body down on the "frame" under the battery to mount it! I used reinforced 3/8 (if I remember correctly) fuel line and a couple of brass hose barbs. You can buy these remote oil filter housings for around $25 at any auto parts store.
On filter choice; I did a good bit of research on this. A handful of companies make the vast majority of filters and supply them to different companies with whoever's label on them. The overall best choice is a "PURE ONE" filter as it has the finest filtering medium. Check on "MOPAR" site for test info. Use the filter that fits in space allowed. Mine is "244T" or similar, I forget and it's snowing, so I'm not crawling under there now. You may want to use a larger capacity or longer or shorter unit. Mine is easily accessible when changing engine oil. WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!! CHEAP, TOO! About $5.
As for magnets; MAGNETS WON'T GET THE BRASS AND NON-FERROUS METAL BITS, THOUGH!!! Also, I was concerned about bypass if full on magnetic in-line filters. Oil filters have reliable, built in bypass internally. If you really want a magnet, and it probably IS a good idea, buy a couple of those round magnets that go inside the trans pan, cost a couple of bucks each, and silicone them to the bottom of the filter. Razor blade 'em off when changing the filter and stick 'em to the new one.
Doing this means you get excellent trans oil filtering, plus magnets to get metal bits.
It's been nearly 20k miles and I've changed the trans filter every 2nd or 3rd engine oil change and topped off the trans with the 1/2qt or so of fluid lost in the old filter. Fluid remains sparkling clean, bright red, no stinky smells and the trans works perfectly, even in minus 10degF weather, (after a couple minute warm up)
It is this sludge, mostly debris from clutch pack wear that causes the overwhelming majority of trans problems. If you have metal bits floating around in there, you likely have other, more serious problems!
After replacing the transmission, I cut the feed line to the cooler and spliced in a remote oil filter housing that had been in my tool box for decades. There were even 2 convenient tapped holes in the body down on the "frame" under the battery to mount it! I used reinforced 3/8 (if I remember correctly) fuel line and a couple of brass hose barbs. You can buy these remote oil filter housings for around $25 at any auto parts store.
On filter choice; I did a good bit of research on this. A handful of companies make the vast majority of filters and supply them to different companies with whoever's label on them. The overall best choice is a "PURE ONE" filter as it has the finest filtering medium. Check on "MOPAR" site for test info. Use the filter that fits in space allowed. Mine is "244T" or similar, I forget and it's snowing, so I'm not crawling under there now. You may want to use a larger capacity or longer or shorter unit. Mine is easily accessible when changing engine oil. WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!! CHEAP, TOO! About $5.
As for magnets; MAGNETS WON'T GET THE BRASS AND NON-FERROUS METAL BITS, THOUGH!!! Also, I was concerned about bypass if full on magnetic in-line filters. Oil filters have reliable, built in bypass internally. If you really want a magnet, and it probably IS a good idea, buy a couple of those round magnets that go inside the trans pan, cost a couple of bucks each, and silicone them to the bottom of the filter. Razor blade 'em off when changing the filter and stick 'em to the new one.
Doing this means you get excellent trans oil filtering, plus magnets to get metal bits.
It's been nearly 20k miles and I've changed the trans filter every 2nd or 3rd engine oil change and topped off the trans with the 1/2qt or so of fluid lost in the old filter. Fluid remains sparkling clean, bright red, no stinky smells and the trans works perfectly, even in minus 10degF weather, (after a couple minute warm up)
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