Well I started the project Sunday @ noon. Worked until the Packers game came on (D**N COWBOYS!)

Continued today and the tranny is now half bolted back in.

Tips & Advice for those contemplating this job at home with jacks and jack stands.

Tools needed besides the usual metric sockets etc...

Torx T50 Bit for Flex Plate bolts
GOOD jack stands
GOOD Jack (my $89 "lightweight" racing jack didn't cut it)
Engine Support (I made my own and will post pics and write up later) but you can buy one from here http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96524

I followed the trans removal from a Haynes Manual pretty closely.

Suggestions

a: Consider removing the ENTIRE subframe and it might be a good time to replace anything under the front end that is questionable. I am replacing Axles, Tie Rods, Sway Bar rod ends, struts, mounts etc.

b: When supporting the car on the jack stands I placed pieces of 2x8" about 6" long between the stand and the car floor just rear of the back subframe mounts. I also jacked the front to the top limit of my dad's 2 1/2 ton craftsman jack for clearance.
NOTE: BE SURE THEY ARE NOT UNDER THE CONNECTING PLATES (two 14MM bolts to body and the one big bolt to the rear subframe mount) DON'T ASK HOW I KNOW THIS!

c: stripping the entire suspension is pretty easy and removing the subframe allows you to get at the tranny MUCH easier than just tilting it down. Also, you can do the Oil Sump O-rings at the same time with no obstructions.

d: No need to remove the starter just unbolt it.

e: No need to disconnect any of the exhaust either.

f: A 14MM universal joint socket might be a good idea to get to some of the tranny to engine bolts.http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...4185_200304185


Brief Description of the process I undertook (again the Haynes or Volvo procedure is the frame work I will only outline the steps)

Remove air box, battery, radiator hose (drain first duh)

Jack the car

Remove front wheels, unhook brake calipers and bungee cord them up high in the wheel wells.

Remove front struts

Remove lower control arms

Drain fluid from trans

Remove axles.

Disconnect the upper firewall torque mount (just the thru bolt is fine)

Support engine with the support bar, I used a hole in the torque mount bracket, take up a little of the weight.

Follow manual procedure for removing the subframe, after tilting it down on the tranny side support it with a jack or short jack stand. You will need to support the front (belt end) of the engine at this point. I used a heavy ratchet strap from the front of the engine where there is a bracket with a hole, over the support bar and down the rear to the axle support bearing housing. Place a jack under the engine side of the subframe and remove the subframe bolts there along with the mount by the crank pulley (the two bolts going into the block are easiest way)

Let the subframe down and slide it out from under the car.

At this point I simply tightened the ratchet strap and lowered the threaded rod to tilt the engine down on the tranny side and followed the manual the rest of the way to get the tranny out.
NOTE: TRANNY IS HEAVY!!!!! Be sure you have it supported well before undoing all the bolts!

Unbolt the flex plate and you will see all the Darn oil and the leaking seal. I used a small straght screw driver to puncture through the seal (Be care not to gouge the block or crank!) and pried it out.

Clean the seal area on the crank. Mine had some surface rust and some "sludge" I used fine 3M Scotchbrite, folded it over two thicknesses and worked it around between the block and the crank to get it nice and smooth. Clean up with some brake or carb clean.

Installing the seal is tricky as the seal really does not want to go around the crank easily. I used a cool old "swizzle stick" (old time plastic drink stirrer, "google" it) that had a small ball on the end to work the seal onto the crank end. Then tap it home slowly I used a small rubber faced mallet aroundand around. The felt will crush a little between the block and crank. (I assume this is by design)

Re-assembly is the reverse (HA HA HA that's what they always say!)

I will post any other info I gather along with how to make your own engine support later.

 

Thats for the write up when it is all completed I will make it a sticky.

 

Thanks 1996850torbo for the nice and badly needed writeup.
I am planning to do mine on this weekend. just few quick questions :
1- disconnecting the coolant pipe and draining the coolant is MUST?
2- beside the bolts holding the transmission and engine together, are there any other bolts or nuts to be opened? - i think i read something about those somewhere on the net.
3- Removing the struts and calippers is MUST?

Thanks for the tip on getting T50 bits - BTW, are these commonly available or part of the popular tool kits in the market or is there a way to replace them with some other tool?

I dont have haynes for this car but do you think that i will manage without that?

 

Draining the radiator is a must. If you use the petcock on the bottom and a clean container you can re-use but I wouldn't. New stuff is cheap and I usually run a flush through before starting.

All the bolts holding engine and tranny must be removed. Plus the torque converter bolts. Those are the ones needing the T50 and are accessible through a slot up near the passenger side axle inner CV joint.

I was replacing ENTIRE suspension so I removed the struts. I am pretty sure you could leave them but will need to remove the tie rod end anyway since that is the only way to get the axles out.

GO TO PEPBOYS/Advanced/Checkers/Schucks/Kragen/NAPA any of those places sell the HAYNES for like $19 and the T50 Torx is like $5.

I am off to Southern New Jersey for a much needed long weekend with the wife (In the 850) I would complete the writeup but ran out of time. I will do it next week.

Harry, I am not sure if you are going to get the wet weather we are going to get in Connecticut but if you wait until next weekend I should have the entire procedure spelled out and posted. Also just noticed you are in CAN. Probably can find what you need at Canadian Tire.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AN ADEQUATE ENGINE SUPPORT

 

Thanks 1996850turbo for your very 'to the point reply' - With due respect.

I am talking to one bodyshop guy here and he is letting me use the hoist/engine craddle and some of his power tools for couple of hundered dollars. I am in no rush because the car is still drivable and in the meantime I will go to Canadian tire or Partsource to get Coolant,ATF, Engine oil/filter, T50 bit and anything else that comes to mind and sharp my knives.....

You have a wonderful trip to south and take your time for the writeup and feel free to put in your opinion on my tentative approach.

 

Great write up
The RMS seems really involved.