Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

A basic question about bleeding brakes

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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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Default A basic question about bleeding brakes

I've pulled the copper brake line for the front passenger wheel from my 1996 850. (The brass nut to the flexible hose wouldn't come off without violence. I ended up cutting the nut off and now will try to reflare the end of the line.) When I put the line back in and reattach it to the caliper, can I simply bleed that line, or should I bleed all four wheels? Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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Maybe it's just me, but I would bleed all 4 wheels. Heck, you may as well change ALL the fluid while you are at it. it wont take a whole lot more time to do than just doing one wheel, and the peace of mind you'll have of KNOWING that your lines are free of air bubbles is worth it.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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1+ If you can, replace the fluid all the way through. You won't regret it. However, you can probably get away with only doing the one line.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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From: SE Conn
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agreed with both the others...

Just dont get violent with the bleeders too...
 
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 11:27 PM
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I won't bleed brakes any more w/o a pressure bleeder; makes the job a poc (piece of cake)!

motive makes a decent one.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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For this exact reason i have yet to buy a power bleeder... because as soon as i do... i know i will go thru about 3 gallons of break fluid bleeding everything in site... as well as everyones car i know... =)
 
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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If you haven't flared brake lines before, take your time and practice on some spare line first. I did a write-up for it over on MVS which could help you with getting ready.

+1 for the power bleeder. It'll take about 10 seconds per wheel to bleed. I was so impressed with the ease and speed that I *wanted* to bleed more then just my car!
 

Last edited by vjaneczko; Oct 7, 2010 at 04:41 PM. Reason: Typo
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