Blower motor will not turn on, Why? Noob here!
#1
07-19-2010, 10:12 PM
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Blower motor will not turn on, Why? Noob here!
Hello All!
Let me thank you all in advance. I just bought a '96 850 today. 196,000 miles, here in Lancaster, PA. I will make this short. I did a search for my query, and there are an inordinate amount of broken A/C threads; I read through many, but all seem to have the blower working, at least on "Max" (which should be a resistor issue).
However, my HVAC will not blow anything. No motor noise, nada. The previous owner said it needed a recharge, which was done every few years (leaky?) and it was blowing warm air, never got cold. However about three days ago it stopped blowing anything at all. HELP!
Fuse? Where is fuse? What should I look for? Thats where I wanted to start, But like I said I bought it today, brand new to me.
Thank you all very much!! I look forward to being a part of the community here. I Just sold my BMW E34 535i To join the Volvo legions. I love their forums, and was very involved, looking to do the same here.
Thank you again,
JPS
Let me thank you all in advance. I just bought a '96 850 today. 196,000 miles, here in Lancaster, PA. I will make this short. I did a search for my query, and there are an inordinate amount of broken A/C threads; I read through many, but all seem to have the blower working, at least on "Max" (which should be a resistor issue).
However, my HVAC will not blow anything. No motor noise, nada. The previous owner said it needed a recharge, which was done every few years (leaky?) and it was blowing warm air, never got cold. However about three days ago it stopped blowing anything at all. HELP!
Fuse? Where is fuse? What should I look for? Thats where I wanted to start, But like I said I bought it today, brand new to me.
Thank you all very much!! I look forward to being a part of the community here. I Just sold my BMW E34 535i To join the Volvo legions. I love their forums, and was very involved, looking to do the same here.
Thank you again,
JPS
#2
07-20-2010, 11:45 AM
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Welcome!
Do you have the ECC or the MCC? The MCC uses a resistor to control fan speeds 1, 2 & 3 and it's bypassed for 4. If the resistor is blown, only speed 4 will work.
With the ECC, it uses a MOSFET power stage and behaves in much the same way. Sometimes when the motor burns itself out, it’ll blow the power stage, too. This is commonly ‘tested’ by the fact that the blower motor runs full-speed even when the key is removed from the ignition.
If you don't get any fan at all, the blower motor is likely shot, which is a common failure. When the motor goes, it sometimes blows-out the resistor/power stage and the fuse. You can pull out the motor and test it by connecting power to it. The fuse is under the hood, up near the drivers-side hinge.
Do you have the ECC or the MCC? The MCC uses a resistor to control fan speeds 1, 2 & 3 and it's bypassed for 4. If the resistor is blown, only speed 4 will work.
With the ECC, it uses a MOSFET power stage and behaves in much the same way. Sometimes when the motor burns itself out, it’ll blow the power stage, too. This is commonly ‘tested’ by the fact that the blower motor runs full-speed even when the key is removed from the ignition.
If you don't get any fan at all, the blower motor is likely shot, which is a common failure. When the motor goes, it sometimes blows-out the resistor/power stage and the fuse. You can pull out the motor and test it by connecting power to it. The fuse is under the hood, up near the drivers-side hinge.
#3
07-20-2010, 03:05 PM
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Thank you very much for the welcoming! I really appreciate the advice! 
I believe I have the ECC, after doing a quick search for what the different controls look like. Found it here:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/ecc-mcc-35319/
The pic in that thread is what my new baby looks like.
I assume best access to the blower is via the glove box route to test her out withe the auxiliary power source.
1) What would you recommend to use for an alternate power source?
2) Is there a diagram/picture for where I should hook up the auxiliary power to the blower's wiring harness?
3) And if the blower is shot, what would you want me to replace? Just the motor? Is the resistor/power stage included with the the motor when a new one is ordered?
4) How should I check for the blown resistor?
5) LASTLY, Where do you all buy your parts from? Do you buy used? Or have a good source for cheap new? Maybe refurb? Ebay?
Truly, thank you so much for your help!! There are no good Volvo mechanics nearby either for me to hassle for information, so you all will get the brunt of my problems. I will eternally be grateful though, and hopefully we will have some fun a long the way.
I believe I have the ECC, after doing a quick search for what the different controls look like. Found it here:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/ecc-mcc-35319/
The pic in that thread is what my new baby looks like.
I assume best access to the blower is via the glove box route to test her out withe the auxiliary power source.
1) What would you recommend to use for an alternate power source?
2) Is there a diagram/picture for where I should hook up the auxiliary power to the blower's wiring harness?
3) And if the blower is shot, what would you want me to replace? Just the motor? Is the resistor/power stage included with the the motor when a new one is ordered?
4) How should I check for the blown resistor?
5) LASTLY, Where do you all buy your parts from? Do you buy used? Or have a good source for cheap new? Maybe refurb? Ebay?
Truly, thank you so much for your help!! There are no good Volvo mechanics nearby either for me to hassle for information, so you all will get the brunt of my problems. I will eternally be grateful though, and hopefully we will have some fun a long the way.
#4
07-20-2010, 03:30 PM
Yeah, you have the electronic climate control. When you turn on the blower motor, do the AC and REC lights blink? If so, then there are codes stored in the computer. What year is your car? If it is before 96, you can check the codes yourself and then know for sure what the issue is with the blower motor.
#5
07-20-2010, 03:42 PM
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Yeah, the MCC has fan positions 1, 2, 3 & 4 so they’re easy to tell the difference. Here’s a post you cn read that will help identify the location of everything:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23749&start=0
To test the fan, you can just remove the plastic ‘cover’ at the passenger foot well – three screws, Torx I believe. The power connection for the fan will be on the right-side of the motor housing. The wiring and the clip are both tight, but you can wiggle it out. If you have the wire, you can run some off of the battery to test. Otherwise, maybe find one of those big ‘ol lantern batteries.
There’s a repair guide for removing the motor from the assembly, but I found a new one on eBay that was motor, fan blade and housing all for 70 bucks. The only issue is that it stuck out of the mount a fraction of a hair more and hit against the glove box – all I did was nip out the corner of the glove box.
The power stage is not included with the motor.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/66
The power stage will probably have some smoked chips on it, but mine didn’t. It was toast nonetheless. I swapped the motor first (‘cause it was seized solid) and discovered the power stage was toast, so I had to wait another few days for the part to ship.
I prefer to buy new parts, so I trust in FCP Groton (www.fcpgroton.com) or IPD (www.ipdusa.com) first. After that, I search Amazon.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23749&start=0
To test the fan, you can just remove the plastic ‘cover’ at the passenger foot well – three screws, Torx I believe. The power connection for the fan will be on the right-side of the motor housing. The wiring and the clip are both tight, but you can wiggle it out. If you have the wire, you can run some off of the battery to test. Otherwise, maybe find one of those big ‘ol lantern batteries.
There’s a repair guide for removing the motor from the assembly, but I found a new one on eBay that was motor, fan blade and housing all for 70 bucks. The only issue is that it stuck out of the mount a fraction of a hair more and hit against the glove box – all I did was nip out the corner of the glove box.
The power stage is not included with the motor.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/66
The power stage will probably have some smoked chips on it, but mine didn’t. It was toast nonetheless. I swapped the motor first (‘cause it was seized solid) and discovered the power stage was toast, so I had to wait another few days for the part to ship.
I prefer to buy new parts, so I trust in FCP Groton (www.fcpgroton.com) or IPD (www.ipdusa.com) first. After that, I search Amazon.
#6
07-21-2010, 11:38 AM
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OK, I checked the fuses (they are #5 and #31). Neither are blown.
Yes, there are blinking lights on the "Rec" and "A/C" toggle switches. They both blinked 18 times in unison.
I have a 1996 with the OBDII next to the shifter ****. So, I assume I can not pull the codes myself. If I take it to Autozone will they be able to pull the codes? I hear they'll do it for free, anyone try this? When I do get it read, will the codes check the blower motor and power stage separately to tell me if just one or both are shot?
If that motor is fried (Probable), I think I will try to pick up the motor that has the fan attached to it, per your suggestion. I hope I dont have to nick the glove-box, though.
Should I get those codes read before trying to run the blower on a 12v. And what lead from the batt (+ or -) goes to which color wire of the motor?
Yes, there are blinking lights on the "Rec" and "A/C" toggle switches. They both blinked 18 times in unison.
I have a 1996 with the OBDII next to the shifter ****. So, I assume I can not pull the codes myself. If I take it to Autozone will they be able to pull the codes? I hear they'll do it for free, anyone try this? When I do get it read, will the codes check the blower motor and power stage separately to tell me if just one or both are shot?
If that motor is fried (Probable), I think I will try to pick up the motor that has the fan attached to it, per your suggestion. I hope I dont have to nick the glove-box, though.
Should I get those codes read before trying to run the blower on a 12v. And what lead from the batt (+ or -) goes to which color wire of the motor?
#7
07-21-2010, 12:42 PM
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The blinking lights flash for 10 seconds, just to annoy you but they don't actually report anything.
Do you have the diag box mounted in front of the ECU? If you do, you can pull your own codes. The ODBII port won't report any ECC codes - but it never hurts to see if AutoZone can pull a code
Check out this link and look for the PDF "Tests with codes" - they have one with and without turbos. It'll help you read your diag box (if you have it).
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_wo...techdocs.shtml
As for testing the fan, mine was seized so I knew I needed a new one. The fan is 12V DC so it shouldn't cause a problem if you connected the wires backwards; it should just run in reverse. If you do connect it to power, be careful because it has a good amount of torque so it'd be best to leave it mounted in the car or held by someone else with both hands.
If memory serves, it has a black and a red wire, so black would be ground.
If you pull the power stage out, you can pop the top off and inspect the circuit board. You may see a fried chip, but in my case I didn't.
Do you have the diag box mounted in front of the ECU? If you do, you can pull your own codes. The ODBII port won't report any ECC codes - but it never hurts to see if AutoZone can pull a code
Check out this link and look for the PDF "Tests with codes" - they have one with and without turbos. It'll help you read your diag box (if you have it).
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_wo...techdocs.shtml
As for testing the fan, mine was seized so I knew I needed a new one. The fan is 12V DC so it shouldn't cause a problem if you connected the wires backwards; it should just run in reverse. If you do connect it to power, be careful because it has a good amount of torque so it'd be best to leave it mounted in the car or held by someone else with both hands.
If memory serves, it has a black and a red wire, so black would be ground.
If you pull the power stage out, you can pop the top off and inspect the circuit board. You may see a fried chip, but in my case I didn't.
#8
07-21-2010, 04:41 PM
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Haha, I am obviously a little OCD when it comes to counting things... though itmaybe a good idea to take to volvo headquarters - to have the light blink a diagnostic "morse code" right there at the HVAC.
I looked for the Diag Box; None in my car. Kind of disappointing. Is there a possibility to retrofit one later?
Best thing to do now is manually check the motor with it mounted (or held loosely by my sucker brother...) and hook it up to the battery (negative to black... I thought the wires may be blue/white looking at another pic of a motor on the forum, I am glad if it is simple red/back).
And, I will look at the power stage for burnage. Should I order one anyway? I hate to do work twice and wait for parts.
I know this was answered before about fcpgroton.com and ipdusa.com, but I am seeing several motors w/fans on on ebay ranging anywhere from used at $50 to $100 new. And I am on a super-budget, any reason not to take a chance on the cheapo used part? Should I expect it will crap out just like this one? Which would be better to buy used? Motor or Resistor/power stage? (Is the power stage a fancy resistor?)
IPD does have this Blower Motor for $114.
http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...D=0&V_ID=11750
Thank you Vinny for all your continued help!
Tell me if I should start another thread, I dont know the ediquette yet on having two threads going at once:
I have a pull in my steering wheel when I brake. The steering wheel pulls left, and the car seems to want to go slightly right. I looked at the rotors in the front, and they seem very scored! Lots of nicely rounded grooves across the entire rotor in no particular pattern, no break grinding noise though. Not sure if the scoring is a symptom of the same problem or not, or helps in the diagnoses.
But any thought on the brake pull? Is this a stuck open caliper? Loose tie rod? Control arm? Uneven pads? The fronts hold the parking break very well it seems, and neither of the rear are stuck closed.
Thank again!
I looked for the Diag Box; None in my car. Kind of disappointing. Is there a possibility to retrofit one later?
Best thing to do now is manually check the motor with it mounted (or held loosely by my sucker brother...) and hook it up to the battery (negative to black... I thought the wires may be blue/white looking at another pic of a motor on the forum, I am glad if it is simple red/back).
And, I will look at the power stage for burnage. Should I order one anyway? I hate to do work twice and wait for parts.
I know this was answered before about fcpgroton.com and ipdusa.com, but I am seeing several motors w/fans on on ebay ranging anywhere from used at $50 to $100 new. And I am on a super-budget, any reason not to take a chance on the cheapo used part? Should I expect it will crap out just like this one? Which would be better to buy used? Motor or Resistor/power stage? (Is the power stage a fancy resistor?)
IPD does have this Blower Motor for $114.
http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...D=0&V_ID=11750
Thank you Vinny for all your continued help!
Tell me if I should start another thread, I dont know the ediquette yet on having two threads going at once:
I have a pull in my steering wheel when I brake. The steering wheel pulls left, and the car seems to want to go slightly right. I looked at the rotors in the front, and they seem very scored! Lots of nicely rounded grooves across the entire rotor in no particular pattern, no break grinding noise though. Not sure if the scoring is a symptom of the same problem or not, or helps in the diagnoses.
But any thought on the brake pull? Is this a stuck open caliper? Loose tie rod? Control arm? Uneven pads? The fronts hold the parking break very well it seems, and neither of the rear are stuck closed.
Thank again!
#9
07-21-2010, 05:21 PM
New topic should be a new thread. Makes it easier for others to look for something wth a search. Keep this thread for the blower motor.
If you want new, you can't beat fcpgroton.
When I buy used I always check with Erie Volvo - 1-800-441-3743. They pretty much offer a lifetime waranty on most any part and their shipping is pretty fast.
If you want new, you can't beat fcpgroton.
When I buy used I always check with Erie Volvo - 1-800-441-3743. They pretty much offer a lifetime waranty on most any part and their shipping is pretty fast.
#10
07-21-2010, 10:50 PM
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#11
07-22-2010, 09:24 AM
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I hate that too, but in my case I wasn’t able to tell that the power stage was shot, so I had to manually plug-in the motor whenever I wanted heat. If you order one, just make sure you can return it if you don’t need it.
Yes. The big cause of failure for these is the factory didn’t install a filter above them, so a lot of gunk falls into them over the years. There’s a post that steps you through a rebuild of the motor, if you’re handy enough to try it, but I opted to get a new one.
A used one? Yes, eventually.
Neither. You never know when the power stage is going to fail. Some people will get a used one, but I didn't want to take that chance.
Yes. Technically it’s a MOSFET – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mosfet
Yes. The big cause of failure for these is the factory didn’t install a filter above them, so a lot of gunk falls into them over the years. There’s a post that steps you through a rebuild of the motor, if you’re handy enough to try it, but I opted to get a new one.
A used one? Yes, eventually.
Neither. You never know when the power stage is going to fail. Some people will get a used one, but I didn't want to take that chance.
Yes. Technically it’s a MOSFET – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mosfet
#12
07-26-2010, 03:02 PM
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#14
07-27-2010, 09:12 AM
96 850 GLT H/AC Fan
Had exact same problem. Climate control module lite would blink, Nothing worked.
Turns out Fan motor was bad. Best money I ever spent was on a Volvo 840 93-97 Haynes Manual I got at O"Reilly Auto Store. If you keep your volvo any length of time, you will need one or else waste a lot of time trying to figure out how to remove parts. Just try getting the power steering rack out flying blind, or removing the dash cover to get to the inst cluster. Removing/ replacing the H/AC fan is described in detail and invoves removing the glove box insert etc.
Turns out Fan motor was bad. Best money I ever spent was on a Volvo 840 93-97 Haynes Manual I got at O"Reilly Auto Store. If you keep your volvo any length of time, you will need one or else waste a lot of time trying to figure out how to remove parts. Just try getting the power steering rack out flying blind, or removing the dash cover to get to the inst cluster. Removing/ replacing the H/AC fan is described in detail and invoves removing the glove box insert etc.
#15
07-27-2010, 03:32 PM
Senior Member
Ok, i've replaced the blower motor before....
DO NOT PURCHASE ONE ONLINE!
Go to a junkyard. You'll always find 850's there and it really doesn't matter what year, they look like they all use the same motor. Everytime I go I see them there. And usually the dash is already torn apart and it's just sitting there ready to be plucked... along with the resistor.
Pulling it will cost you around $15.
DO NOT PURCHASE ONE ONLINE!
Go to a junkyard. You'll always find 850's there and it really doesn't matter what year, they look like they all use the same motor. Everytime I go I see them there. And usually the dash is already torn apart and it's just sitting there ready to be plucked... along with the resistor.
Pulling it will cost you around $15.
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