Boost Leak Pressure Tester
#1
Boost Leak Pressure Tester
Costs about $15-$20
Reference to the pictures because it is actually self-explanatory. This is not the device I built but from another source.
After the device is assembled you attach the device to your turbo inlet. The inlet I am referreing to is the where the air intake hose feeds into the turbo behind the engine. Air intake hose will obviously need to be removed...good chance to clean out the PTC on the intake hose.
I forgot how large the opening of the turbo inlet is so you will need to measure that once the intake hose is off then run and get your parts. If you don't have the luxury of using another car while your Volvo is disabled, or you don't want to waste time taking off, measuring, and reassembling the intake hose just measure the circumfrance of the hose after the MAF without taking off the hose. The diameter will be circumfrance/pi (In lamen terms, the measured distance around the intake hose divided by 3.14159). This is the only measurement you will need.
In the picture, the black rubber hose with the two band clamps can be bought as an assembly from most hardware stores. Just print the picture and bring it to you rlocal hardware store. Next you can shop for the PVC end cap by just fitting it with the black hose. Once done I believe you will need to hit an auto parts shop for the valve stems.
Once home, drill a hole in the PVC end cap just big enough to fit your valve through. I super-glued mine in just to make sure it stays and is sealed. Then it is a matter of tightening the band clamps on the PVC en cap and the turbo inlet.
I have the luxury of owning a tire inflator which has a pressure gauge on it. You want to monitor pressure becaue the turbo systems is not made to exceed a certain psi, probably 30 psi would be MAX. If you don't have one, they make gauges that twist on the valve and have their own valve where you can connect a bike pump.
Let me know about any questions or if someone knows an easier or cheaper way to test for leaks
Reference to the pictures because it is actually self-explanatory. This is not the device I built but from another source.
After the device is assembled you attach the device to your turbo inlet. The inlet I am referreing to is the where the air intake hose feeds into the turbo behind the engine. Air intake hose will obviously need to be removed...good chance to clean out the PTC on the intake hose.
I forgot how large the opening of the turbo inlet is so you will need to measure that once the intake hose is off then run and get your parts. If you don't have the luxury of using another car while your Volvo is disabled, or you don't want to waste time taking off, measuring, and reassembling the intake hose just measure the circumfrance of the hose after the MAF without taking off the hose. The diameter will be circumfrance/pi (In lamen terms, the measured distance around the intake hose divided by 3.14159). This is the only measurement you will need.
In the picture, the black rubber hose with the two band clamps can be bought as an assembly from most hardware stores. Just print the picture and bring it to you rlocal hardware store. Next you can shop for the PVC end cap by just fitting it with the black hose. Once done I believe you will need to hit an auto parts shop for the valve stems.
Once home, drill a hole in the PVC end cap just big enough to fit your valve through. I super-glued mine in just to make sure it stays and is sealed. Then it is a matter of tightening the band clamps on the PVC en cap and the turbo inlet.
I have the luxury of owning a tire inflator which has a pressure gauge on it. You want to monitor pressure becaue the turbo systems is not made to exceed a certain psi, probably 30 psi would be MAX. If you don't have one, they make gauges that twist on the valve and have their own valve where you can connect a bike pump.
Let me know about any questions or if someone knows an easier or cheaper way to test for leaks
#3
I found out the leak tester doesn't work. LOL. just kidding.
MY tester didn't work because I bought black tubing that was too large so I was leaking right at the mouth of the turbo.
I tried to solve this by tightening the band clamps becasue the black tubing did contract without wrinkling for a little but I bought it WAY too large. Affter the band clamp was tightened so much, my black tubing wrinkled and therefore let air escape.
Will buy new supplies this weekend after doing my spark plug test and fuel injector test. MAF test passed!
MY tester didn't work because I bought black tubing that was too large so I was leaking right at the mouth of the turbo.
I tried to solve this by tightening the band clamps becasue the black tubing did contract without wrinkling for a little but I bought it WAY too large. Affter the band clamp was tightened so much, my black tubing wrinkled and therefore let air escape.
Will buy new supplies this weekend after doing my spark plug test and fuel injector test. MAF test passed!
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