@rspiiGlad to hear it worked out for you. Like most things that are tackled for the first time, It always seems to take a while. After doing a couple, you'll be able to do it blindfolded in 30 minutes. Like most things on cars, those cursed/blessed with small hands, always seem to have it the easiest. From my understanding, reinstalling that clutch (with the compressor still in) usually takes a while, and would drive some less patient insane. If or when you tackle that. I certainly want to read about it. As to the Enviro-Safe Henry. People need to educate themselves on the matter of hydrocarbon refrigerants, and then draw their own conclusions. And while, it may be legal in 134A, the main reason is that the EPA lacks the authority to do anything about it. (Unlike the authority they have over R-12) A couple of things people should be aware of though,if considering retrofitting to HC Refrigerant:

EPA has found no persuasive evidence that hydrocarbons are safe to use as refrigerants in vehicles designed for non-flammable refrigerants such as CFC-12 or HFC-134a. EPA banned the use of hydrocarbon refrigerants as a replacement for CFC-12 under the authority granted by the Clean Air Act and has authority to take enforcement action to protect the public against companies violating the law.
Companies marketing hydrocarbon refrigerants point out that EPA lacks specific authority to prohibit the use of hydrocarbons to replace HFC-134a. They use this fact to argue that CFC-12 systems converted to an EPA-listed retrofit refrigerant such as HFC-134a can be safely converted to hydrocarbons. There is no evidence to prove that hydrocarbons are safe to use in mobile air conditioning systems designed for either CFC-12 or HFC-134a.
No vehicle manufacturer has endorsed or authorized the use of hydrocarbon refrigerants in current production mobile air conditioning systems and no professional or technical association has approved the use of hydrocarbon refrigerants. Vehicle warranties are voided for any air conditioning system that has been charged with hydrocarbons. Vehicle manufacturers only recognize HFC-134a as acceptable for use in their current mobile air conditioning systems. Easy identification by service technicians using sophisticated refrigerant identifiers will help avoid the risk of explosion and guard against the contamination of equipment when refrigerant is recovered and recycled.

 

On another note. Since many of these systems/evaporators leak, I assume we are breathing this stuff in small amounts. Not concerned that it will kill me, God knows there have been many other opportunities for that to happen, I wonder if there is any concerns there, especially with the hydrocabon.

Going a little further, when I looked at this evaporator, I do believe I seen some leak detector on it. I also seen a lot of dirt and what could easily be mold on the evaporator and in the box. Now when I did the evaporator change on the yellow car a few months ago, it was packed with dirt, moldy looking stuff and was just plain nasty. Every time the fan is turned on the micros from that thing are forced into the cabin.

Now, I believe that changing the evaporator on a car that is leaking less than 12 oz per month on the car is a total waste of time and money, however, I wonder if it is worth doing it just for the bio factor. I'm a little bit of a germ-o-fob, I carry my hand wipes in the car at all times. Clean my hands and steering wheel often. So, I'm thinking about attempting some kind of cleaning on the evaporator while it is still in the car. Not sure what to use in conjuction with a small gentle wire or tooth brush. Carb cleaner, 409, a bleach solution, etc.. Just wondering what would be best and most effective.

I would hope that having a cabin filter would help that situation but this car has had one since at least 2003 (sticker on the box). I'm not sure what is recommended on the replacement cycle of the cabin filter but 12 months / 24,000 miles would not be a bad option. When I inspected the cabin filter in the S70 when we first got it the thing was so caked up with everything from dirt to pine needles it was a wonder any air was getting through it. I replaced it 2 years ago and it was looking in need of replacement again recently so I replaced it a week or so ago.

Does anyone have a cabin filter installed that has been replaced often? If so, have you looked at your evaporator to see if it looks clean or dirty as sewer drain pipe? I know the main problem with the evaporator is that it gets real cold and wet all the time. That condensation can cause any and all dirt to cling to it.

 

@ 058Ovlov: I did a lot research, and spoke with some people in the field, before I converted my 1998 to Enviro-Safe. I am not getting into the arguments right now. I decided, that it was worth it, and went ahead and did it.

For those interested -- go ahead and do your own research, and don't limit yourself to what I or someone else may say.

 

Is there any way, you have some pictures from the process with the zip ties, i cant even pictured in my mind, how can you fix metal rubbing parts with a plastic zip ties.Where exactly do you put these zip ties, without, taking the clutch down. I`ve tried to find the post about the zip ties, but i couldnt. i dont want to bother you too much, but its getting hot in chicago, and i dont want to have to struggle like last year, just trying to find the right way, and get it done as quickly as possible, not really looking to save money, just to get it going

 

Just wanted to give the forum users an update. Its been like 14 days since i did the a/c clutch gap, and man is it cold in this car. Didnt even unscrew a bolt, if somebody has the gap problem in compressor, the fix takes around 10 min, with few pieces of zip ties. Thanks for the heads up RSPI !

 

Glad you got it done. Not sure how I missed the 5/2 post. My car gets to cold for me as well. I was worried about that having a wagon with NO TINT but I'm good to go now.

 

rspi, any idea what size ties you used? I want to do this on my car, but dont want to go and buy too big a tie. If I buy a variety pack, what sort of thickness should they be?

 

The standard large ones. Not the ones that you use to handcuff people, just the ones that are about 10 inches long.

 

 

Well I'm attempting this job tomorrow, fingers crossed it works for me!

I figure apart from a couple of hours of my time and a few cents worth of zip ties, I have nothing to lose.

 

I did it with the compressor on the car. I have heard that some have done it in 30 minutes.

 

Well it's done, and so far so good. It is 24 celcius (75 farenheit) today and the a/c is working beautifully. I'll see how it goes on the long haul.

Took me about 45 minutes working under the car, and cost me about 20c.

Oh and while taking the car off the ramps the drivers one skidded, took paint off my bumper and smashed my foglight

So the job actually cost about $100 after I go and buy another fog light.

 

Get a used fog if possible. Sorry to hear that happened.