96 volvo 850 turbo. runs for about 15 minutes then dies. Any ideas?

 

I can't stress this enough folks. You really need to give more info about the condition of your car. When it first starts, How does it run, How is it idling, do you have trouble starting it, Does it stall only at idle or while driving, or both? Etc.. If it runs like Jesse Owens, when it happens, than say so. No offense treborly, but easy questions could get 102 different answers. Most of which will be insignificant. So please be specific, and I, as well as others will try and help you as best we can. But to be blatantly honest. Even If my Grandmother called me, and asked me a question that simple. My would reply would be.....It's probably just a piece of **** Grams. So please try and give an indication, of not only how the car acts while running, but also when the problem arose, and if there were any symptoms surrounding it.

 

true. But that is actually all the info i have. I contacted a guy about buying his car and he said that it runs but dies after it warms up, then starts up again if you let it rest. When he said that, i decided to pass on it so didnt go into detail. Now i was just curious that maybe it could be an easy fix and i shouldn't pass on it.

What exactly should i ask him so i can narrow down the problem.

 

@058 ovlov,true, a little bit info would be a good idea.

 

the relay wil be my first guess.l had the same problem.exactly the same till l sold my car.ask him to check for fuel pressure too

 

Is that consistant? Does it ever start back up and run some more? Is the fuel pressure good?

 

so, did it turn out to be the relay? or did you not find out and just sold it?
from what i read in the other thread you can just bypass the relay with a wire right? Problem is, what if i do and it works. Doubt he will be so inclined to sell his car then, or maybe he will bump the price higher.

 

l found out to be the relay after selling the car. l learnt that sometimes a bad relay dont work good when it is warmed up.mine will work when its cold and shuts off when l warm it up.it can sit for days without starting and after two or three days it fired up.none of these mechanics was able to find out what was wrong with my car.l will look into the relay first.there is a thread on how to check for a bad relay.MATT has a video of that.l will look for the link and post it up for u.

 

i want to check to see if this is the problem before buying the car. Could i just let him run the vehicle until it dies, then listen if i can hear the fuel pump when he tries to start the engine? If i dont hear it, then its most likely either the relay or pump right?

 

you know what? this is what you need to do. check for fuel pressure first. here is a video of it.
if there is noo pressure, then ur pump is prob out and needs replacing.the pressure should be 40-45 PSI.on a cold engine you would prob get 39 or 40 PSI.do that first and lets go from there.

 

where are you located?if you are in new york/ long island l can help u look at the car before you buy it

 

O.K. thats what I'm talking about. (More info) Now I can safely give you feedback. Option #1 you pay a mechanic $100-$150 to look over the car. And then you base your decision on that. Worst case scenario? Your out a buck fifty. Option # 2 you walk away from the deal. No 2 other ways about it. And heres why. When it come to buying a used european import, It's all about knowledge and know how. Now by no means am I trying to insult you, or your mechanical ability. But to buy a used car with problems of these years you have to have an understanding of their quirks and their faults. What I mean by this, is that if I look an Audi, MBZ, BMW, Volvo, etc.. I know by the make/year/model their peccadilloes. And it's a calculated risk. I can talk someone down from 3K to $800 by making things seem like they are worse then they are. (And quoting shop prices) Meanwhile back @ the oasis the Arabs are eating their dates, and I secretly know the valves aren't bent, or it's a reoccurring problem with the Audis TCU. (Cleaned up on that one) The true danger however lies, in not knowing the cars. For instance. Got my Volvo for a song. Because the ignition switch was bad and nary a thing worked. Put my money that that would be an easy fix (I was right) so moved in to the shaking while at speed. looked the suspension over and determined it was the tires. (I was right again so double win) Falker pulled the cell bulb and there was a very slight shutter @ idle. Chalked it up to bad mounts and /or worn ignition parts. CA CHING! Took it for a song in a Qt Parking lot. For a few hundos, after I inundated him with the future repair bills. And the false sense that the car wouldn't probably make it 9 more miles so I was gonna call AAA to tow it, out of fear of driving it. And no I never called AAA. I couldn't because I don't have AAA. Now if I'm losing you, pay attention. Because this is where it all comes together. Turns out after further inspection . The car has a bad valve. Either way, I really could care, because the int/ext/was pretty mint. And I could part it out and still come out ahead. But to make a long story short , and a short story longer. I fixed it myself. To the tune of $400. It's on it's 3rd year riding like a champ. But my caution to you. What if I was wrong about the ignition switch? What if I was wrong about the tires? You think I still would have fixed it? (in my case probably so because the int/ext was mint) But at what cost? What I did fir $400 a shop wanted $2400-$3200 to do. And if thats your option, take door # 2 and walk away. Anyone can tell you anything on the internet. (once met a chick who was 128. Turned out to be 281. You will get good info here. But if you already need to seek answers, before you buy it. Than don't buy it. Or take it to a mechanic and then make an offer. Just like Audi, MBZ, BMW, & Jags. There are plenty of solid cars out there for cheap. But they are not for the faint of heart. You need to get your hands dirty, or they will eat through your bank account like termites. By no means am I trying to dissuade you from getting an 850. They are Ashford & Simpson Solid. Just don't look online @ this point to try and find a fix, for a car you're thinking about buying. You can learn the know how hands on **** later. For now, take it to a mechanic. (And deduct the cost off of the asking price) Good Luck in your search for the right 850

 

@058ovlov, wow brother you can type alot.thats a whole story and its the truth.LOL.

 

thanks 058. I know where your coming from, the reason im willing to take the risk is because i know i could make my money back if things go to ****. I`m pretty much getting the car for free. I can scrap it for more money than i have put in to it , or could part it out. if i was spending my hard earned money then i wouldn't even consider it before taking it to a mechanic.

I`m in southern Ontario.