so ive spent last 2 entire days reading online and tinkering with my car and i just keep making it worse and worse. I have a 1995 volvo 850 turbo wagon. i just got it like 2 weeks ago when i got it it would idle fine about 800-850 when i first start it up when its really cold but it would quickly jump up to 1600 when warmed up a lil. but when it was in drive the idle went back to normal. i tired to fix it by cleaning out the tb and butterfly... there was a lot of build up. I then put the hose back on. i also noticed that my butterfly didnt seem to shut all the way and if i pressed down on the rod connected to the cable pully wheel it would close a bit more and idle better. i tried to adjust the bolt that had the spring and tightend that up but it didnt bring that pin any closer to the stopping screw with blue paint on it. the cable was also a bit loose so i tightend it up not to where its pulling the wheel or anything but just so its not so loose. the pully wheel rests on the stopper but the adjustment screw is pretty farm from the things its suppose to stop. anyways when i started it up again it was idling at 2k then i unplugged the battery replugged it in and it didnt change anything. my car then started to ildle up indown from like 2k-3k or something. i re checked my hoses and pully and pressed down on the rod again. now when i start my car the idle rises quickly to 4000+ i shut it off att 4k. what did i do to my car i try to fix a 1.6 idle now have 4000+. also when i drove it after cleaning the tb it was wierd i didnt have to press the gas at 55 it was just pulling me and was idling in drive at like 1.7

 

Disconnect the throttle body linkage and start the car, see if it idles properly. At either yellow points. If it idles properly you messed up the cable adjustment.

 

can i just pull it off the pivot ball ?

 

Yes, it pops right off and snaps back on. If the plastic is old it may break and not snap back on. If that happens you'll have to get a replacement from a junk yard. They cost about $25 from the dealer.

 

nice man that fixed it completely idles at like 800. now do i just need to make that linkage longer somehow or? how can I hook this up correctly? thanks for your help really appreciate it.

 

Man, you was messing around with that cable, not sure what to tell you on that one.

If the cable has enough slack to let the throttle plate close all the way, the linkage that you took loose can be adjusted to let the throttle switch from computer controlled to pedal control. When the cable and linkage is adjusted properly the throttle plate should be closed and as soon as the cable is moved you should hear a click from the switch on the throttle. Click, Click. Open and close. You can disconnect the cable and work with the linkage to start. The linkage has a center shaft that adjust both ends (total length of the linkage). Bread both bolts loose and twist the center piece, while it is connected untill you hear the click. Adjust it until it click when closed and as soon as you move it with your hand you should hear it click when it starts to open.

Once you get that linkage adjusted work with the cable. If you google "volvo 850 throttle cable adjustment" or installation you may find the proper way to adjust it. I'll check ipd and post back.

 

Here are a couple of links:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ustment-64689/

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ustment-27381/

 

man this is perfect thanks again for the help

 

You need to adjust the cable properly so there is some slack in it.

 

While you were cleaning, did you clean the Idle Air Control Motor ?? If your throttle plate was that gummed up it's likely the IAC is also pretty nasty.
If you do clean it, remember to keep the motor, the end with the connector up so you don't flush the crud into the motor and damage it.

 

cool ill try cleaning the iac tomorrow. i got everything put back together i start with just the tb linkage i twisted it to try and make it long but it just spun and didnt change length i snapped it back on to the lower pivot ball on the tb and then lossend the bolt next to it that has the spring thing. i loosed that all the way started my car and its now idling at 1k i then went and wrapped the cable back around the pully and there was no change so i think thats fine. still 1k seems a tad high and the bolt loosened i dont feel should be that loose, but if i tighten it my idle goes up. maybe cleaning the IAC will fix it. also RSPI that link you sent me talking about how you should hear a click when moving the throttle wheel i dont here anything but it rev up no click but anyways seems to be doing alot better now i can get back to fixing my heat and give it a tune up

 

Make sure you read that NEW 850 OWNER THREAD. That thing is money. I may shoot you a short video tomorrow about the throttle click.

 

My car doesn't have the switch click that I remembered my 960 having. But you do need to adjust that arm so that the throttle is fully closed when the padal is at rest and/or the cable is not connected.

Video:

 

The throttle arm should be resting on the throttle stop.

You should NEVER, NEVER EVER have to adjust the throttle stop screw. There's always an exception and if you remove or replace the throttle plate is about the only exception where you might need to do an adjustment. It doesn't adjust the idle speed, the IAC motor does that. What the stop does is keep the throttle plate from closing completely and getting jammed in the throttle body's bore. Because of temperature changes and dimensional changes due to temperature the plate is designed to almost close but not actually come into contact with the bore. This passage of air should be inadequate for the engine to have a proper idle. The IAC motor is what allows additional air into the engine and is adjusted by the computer to actually control the idle speed up and down depending on load.

I can't find a Volvo spec but for GM's it appears to be .0015" if you have a feeler gauge that small. In the Volvo instructions they have you let the throttle plate fully close against the bore and then turn the stop screw until it touches and then a half turn. That half turn is what gives the plate and throttle body bore a bit of clearance.

From the manual

IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE
NOTE: Cold (fast) idle is computer-controlled. Basic idle speed
is not adjustable.

THROTTLE LINK ROD
1) Mount link rod on throttle housing with "L" mark on rod at
housing end and "R" mark on pulley end. Put a .10" (2.5 mm) feeler
gauge at pulley stop. See Fig. 1. Turn middle of rod until clearance
between lever and adjusting screw is .012" (.30 mm). Ensure rod does
not turn and tighten lock nuts.
2) Recheck clearance. Ensure a .020" (.50 mm) feeler gauge
cannot be inserted between lever and adjusting screw. Ensure a .004"
(.10 mm) feeler gauge can be inserted between lever and adjusting
screw. If clearance is not correct, repeat step 1).
Fig. 1: Adjusting Throttle Link Rod
Courtesy of Volvo Cars of North America.
THROTTLE CABLE
Throttle pulley should move freely without sticking. Cable
should be taut in idling position, without altering pulley position.
Pulley should rest against idle stop. See Fig. 2. Adjust cable as
necessary. Press accelerator pedal to floor and ensure pulley reaches
full-load stop.