Cleared Codes on '94 850
#1
11-02-2006, 12:06 AM
Cleared Codes on '94 850
Hello All,
Greetings from Chicagoland.
Today I gave it another try to see if I could clear codes and make the Check Engine light go away. It worked.
Haynes Manual is not correct in describing the code-retrieving & resetting procedure for B5234T, the 2.3L Turbo engine with Motronic 4.3 engine control system. Haynes describes procedure for LH3.2-Jetronic (Fenix 5.2), and it actually works on Motronic 4.3 as well. 1994 850 are certified with OBD-2 and my 850 does have a datalink socket on the center console, but you can use the generic procedure without visiting a Volvo and pay $100 or buying a scanner that has program for 1995 & earlier OBD-1.
How I cleared Check Engine Light:
I simply followed the procedure for Jetronic 3.2 (Fenix 5.2). With ignition switch off, insert the diagnostic probe into socket A-2. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" (one detent before "START") press the button on the diagnosis terminal for 1-2 second, retrieve code, press the button again for 1-2 second, retrieve next code, etc until it shows the first code again.
Now, this is what you do to reset the system (it was actually somewhere in this forum). When you're done retrieving all codes, press the button for 5-7 seconds. The LED lights up after a little pause, and WHILE THE LED IS ON, press the button for another 5-7 seconds. This resets the system. Last time when I tried to reset the codes, I pressed the button after the LED lit and extinguished. This does not reset codes. To make sure that the codes have been reset, turn off the ignition switch, turn it on again and press the button for 1-2 second. You should now see 1-1-1 (system normal).
After resetting the codes for engine control system, I heard a buzzing noise from somewhere in the engine compartment (I knew it was a right sign for system reset). I checked the codes and they were 1-1-1. Gained confidence, I went after ABS and A/C systems and reset the heck out of them. Sadly, due to faulty ABS module my ABS is still fickle.
Anyway, the dash Check Engine light has decided to go back to sleep. But since the car is 12 years old and has 143,000 plus miles, the O2 sensors might be shot and the light may come back on again.
Resetting "SERVICE" light is as easy, Haynes Manual does it right on this one. Illumination interval for that light differs for turbo/NA engines (turbo=3,000 miles/NA=5,000 miles?).
For experts: Please correct me if I'm wrong in my information.
Mr. Tech, thank you for your advice on this one too.
PS: The right-side sun roof track is shot ($100 plus at the dealer), so it remains closed. Fixed the sun shade with Locktite headliner adhesive, Swedish cars are notorious for using lesser grade adhesive on the headliners, unless they designed them as gravity indicators (Newer models are probably improved).
The radiator is leaking a bit. About $500 unit, the beauty of built-in intercooler, oil cooler & transmission cooler.
This car is full of troubles, an excellent car for technical training.
Cheers,
JPN
Greetings from Chicagoland.
Today I gave it another try to see if I could clear codes and make the Check Engine light go away. It worked.
Haynes Manual is not correct in describing the code-retrieving & resetting procedure for B5234T, the 2.3L Turbo engine with Motronic 4.3 engine control system. Haynes describes procedure for LH3.2-Jetronic (Fenix 5.2), and it actually works on Motronic 4.3 as well. 1994 850 are certified with OBD-2 and my 850 does have a datalink socket on the center console, but you can use the generic procedure without visiting a Volvo and pay $100 or buying a scanner that has program for 1995 & earlier OBD-1.
How I cleared Check Engine Light:
I simply followed the procedure for Jetronic 3.2 (Fenix 5.2). With ignition switch off, insert the diagnostic probe into socket A-2. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" (one detent before "START") press the button on the diagnosis terminal for 1-2 second, retrieve code, press the button again for 1-2 second, retrieve next code, etc until it shows the first code again.
Now, this is what you do to reset the system (it was actually somewhere in this forum). When you're done retrieving all codes, press the button for 5-7 seconds. The LED lights up after a little pause, and WHILE THE LED IS ON, press the button for another 5-7 seconds. This resets the system. Last time when I tried to reset the codes, I pressed the button after the LED lit and extinguished. This does not reset codes. To make sure that the codes have been reset, turn off the ignition switch, turn it on again and press the button for 1-2 second. You should now see 1-1-1 (system normal).
After resetting the codes for engine control system, I heard a buzzing noise from somewhere in the engine compartment (I knew it was a right sign for system reset). I checked the codes and they were 1-1-1. Gained confidence, I went after ABS and A/C systems and reset the heck out of them. Sadly, due to faulty ABS module my ABS is still fickle.
Anyway, the dash Check Engine light has decided to go back to sleep. But since the car is 12 years old and has 143,000 plus miles, the O2 sensors might be shot and the light may come back on again.
Resetting "SERVICE" light is as easy, Haynes Manual does it right on this one. Illumination interval for that light differs for turbo/NA engines (turbo=3,000 miles/NA=5,000 miles?).
For experts: Please correct me if I'm wrong in my information.
Mr. Tech, thank you for your advice on this one too.
PS: The right-side sun roof track is shot ($100 plus at the dealer), so it remains closed. Fixed the sun shade with Locktite headliner adhesive, Swedish cars are notorious for using lesser grade adhesive on the headliners, unless they designed them as gravity indicators (Newer models are probably improved).
The radiator is leaking a bit. About $500 unit, the beauty of built-in intercooler, oil cooler & transmission cooler.
This car is full of troubles, an excellent car for technical training.
Cheers,
JPN
#2
11-02-2006, 01:28 PM
RE: Cleared Codes on '94 850
A correction to the price on radiator:
It was $205 (FCP Groton), instead of $500. I don't know where in my memory I got the first number from.
I was going to defer the repair until later, but since it's $205 plus shipping, I'll replace it soon, along with all sealing rings, O-rings and that leaky oil cooler line.
Cheers,
JPN
It was $205 (FCP Groton), instead of $500. I don't know where in my memory I got the first number from.
I was going to defer the repair until later, but since it's $205 plus shipping, I'll replace it soon, along with all sealing rings, O-rings and that leaky oil cooler line.
Cheers,
JPN
#3
11-02-2006, 07:03 PM
RE: Cleared Codes on '94 850
Hey JPN where is your rad leaking? is it repairable? I repaired the rad on my Mitsubishi this past summer, but that one has brass end tanks and i used a bit of silver solder and flux and repaired it. I'm not sure what kind of rad is on a 850 but it may be repairable.
-Mike
-Mike
#4
11-03-2006, 01:39 AM
RE: Cleared Codes on '94 850
Hello Mr. MikeySq,
Greetings from sleepy Chicagoland (it is I, that is sleepy).
Looking at the car from front, the leak is from left-end of the radiator. It's hidden under a metal cover with bent tabs and I cannot see where exactly the leak is from, unless I take the radiator out and bend the tabs to remove the metal cover. It may be repairable, but after removing the radiator, the last thing I want to happen is leak coming back or leak from somewhere else in the radiator, so I'll probably end up getting a new radiator. By the way, $500 was for the intercooler.
At work, I've been fixing 2 trucks, one of which also has a leaky radiator. Other mechanics don't care, so I've been fixing 3 cars in the last 6 months, including the 850.
Why are these radiators leaking at the same time? There must be a leaky radiator agreement or fan club I don't know about.
Good night,
JPN
Greetings from sleepy Chicagoland (it is I, that is sleepy).
Looking at the car from front, the leak is from left-end of the radiator. It's hidden under a metal cover with bent tabs and I cannot see where exactly the leak is from, unless I take the radiator out and bend the tabs to remove the metal cover. It may be repairable, but after removing the radiator, the last thing I want to happen is leak coming back or leak from somewhere else in the radiator, so I'll probably end up getting a new radiator. By the way, $500 was for the intercooler.
At work, I've been fixing 2 trucks, one of which also has a leaky radiator. Other mechanics don't care, so I've been fixing 3 cars in the last 6 months, including the 850.
Why are these radiators leaking at the same time? There must be a leaky radiator agreement or fan club I don't know about.
Good night,
JPN
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