The First code is:
A3=1-4-2 Stop Lamp Switch Faulty
Not sure what to do with this one.
Any and all info will help.

The next and final one is:
A7=1-2-2 Temperature Sensor Interval Too Long
Once again, I haven't the FAINTEST IDEA of what this is.

Any and all help with this codes, this means you KISS4aFrog LOL, will help me with these codes.

I MUST SAY THAT ALL OF THE HELP I'VE RECIEVED FROM THIS SITE HAS BEEN AWESOME AND NOTHING BUT HELPFUL AND THE TRUTH. THESE GUYS HAS SIMPLYFIED IT IN LAYMANS TERMS SO EVEN THE MOST STUPIDEST OF ALL IDIOTS, LIKE ME, COULD UNDERSTAND. THANKS GUYS, YOU ROCK...

 

Your car's Stop Lamp Switch (located under the driver's side dash, actuated by the brake pedal) alerts certain systems that you are applying the brakes. When activated, it should turn the brake lamps ON, turn the cruise control OFF and "wake up" the Antilock Brake System; it does all of that plus it notifies the Main computer so it can adjust engine timing and fuel delivery accordingly.
Your onboard diagnostics generate specific codes depending on changes in voltage from the different switches, sensors and actuators. Code 142 has been designated by Volvo to refer to a bad signal from the Stop Lamp Switch circuit.

 

IN IDIOT TERMS, what does that mean? It's NOT doing something in that order? And I get to figure out what? Is their something that this model is notorious for NOT doing or causing this system to fail? Next, what does the A7 1-2-2 Temperature sensor Interval too long Short mean? With all of these shorts, am I missing a possible BIGGER problem or is it just a coincidence?

 

The little button that switches the different settings of the interior light settings was missing when I purchased the car and the button is, of course, in the off position. Is their a "redneck" way of getting that button to slide over to a different setting without going and getting a different button? Or will I have to break-down and go get a different button? I'm a CHEAP-SKATE, and if I can get by without paying anything, trust me, I WILL...

 

Ok, let me get my crayon out
It is very likely that the stop light switch itself has failed. It is just like a light switch on the wall. When you press down on the brake pedal the movement turns the switch on and it sends electricity back to the brake lights. The post above had the photos of it and where it goes under the dash on the brake pedal.

BUT, there could be a pinched or cut wire in the circuit, not as likely thought unless you've been under there.
Possible too that the connector is loose going to the switch.


For the lights, you could try to use a pin or small screwdriver to push the slide over to the right side if there is anything to get a hold of. Or just put a jumper in there and you would have full on dash lights. The slide is just a dimmer switch. If you find the hot coming in and the line going to the dash lights and put a wire jumper in there it would give you light.

You can gently pry out the switch as in the picture and look at the wires on the connector. If you jump from the brown wire with orange tracer to the pink wire you should have dash lights. This would be trailer park.

You could also head to radio shack and get a variable resistor and it would take the dimmers place. I just don't know what value.
I did this on a half million $$ CNC boring machine at the horror of the head of operations but he was amazed when I had the machine back up in under and hour with my "Rube Goldberg" wiring job as the rheostat wouldn't fit the control panel. It got us by till the machines rep could fly in the proper replacement.

 

I'm talking about the map light switch above the dashboard right beside the rearview mirror. It has several selection positions in which you can place the selector switch.

 

After reading that you are supposed to continue to hit the button on the diagnostic port to get ALL of the codes, I went and retested my 1993 850 and was SHOCKED OUT OF MY BRICHES. I pulled the following ALL FROM MY CLIMATE MODE(B-1)

2-3-1
2-3-3
3-1-1
4-1-2
4-1-4
4-1-7

Upon later inspection, it looks like the teenager that previously owned the car must've spliced 50 different stereo system to the head unit. Which could lead me to my problem. So, tomorrow I get to take apart spaghetti strand wire to see if any are touching or bare and see if visually I can see. Hopefully, it's an easy fix, but, for some odd reason, I'm not feeling that it's gonna be. Anybody know of any other tricks to this problem?(Kss4aFrog)You ARE the MAN HERE>>>