Cold Start Problem
#1
Cold Start Problem
Reviewed over 200 threads on this topic but none close to my problem.
When parked overnight at ambient temperature of 30C (86F), next day car will crank but will have to hold the key (start position) for about 5-8 seconds for it to start. There seems to be a direct relationship between the time the engine is switched off and the time it takes to for the car to start. The longer I park the car, the longer it takes to start during the day.
Replaced ignition switch, fuel filter, plugs, ignition cables, distributor rotor and coil but the problem is still there.
When engine is at idle...wideband AFR meter is 14.4 to 14.7.
Fuel pressure at fuel rail is 2.8 bar during crank.
When cranked, there is spark at the plugs (checked).
Lambda sensor warning light is on.
Any suggestions would really be helpful. Thanks
Regards,
Kevin
Volvo 1996 T5, green injectors, 18T turbo, N/A Cams, MSD coil, K&N filter, etc
When parked overnight at ambient temperature of 30C (86F), next day car will crank but will have to hold the key (start position) for about 5-8 seconds for it to start. There seems to be a direct relationship between the time the engine is switched off and the time it takes to for the car to start. The longer I park the car, the longer it takes to start during the day.
Replaced ignition switch, fuel filter, plugs, ignition cables, distributor rotor and coil but the problem is still there.
When engine is at idle...wideband AFR meter is 14.4 to 14.7.
Fuel pressure at fuel rail is 2.8 bar during crank.
When cranked, there is spark at the plugs (checked).
Lambda sensor warning light is on.
Any suggestions would really be helpful. Thanks
Regards,
Kevin
Volvo 1996 T5, green injectors, 18T turbo, N/A Cams, MSD coil, K&N filter, etc
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 12-20-2013 at 12:01 AM.
#2
Put a fuel pressure tester back on it and prime the system to pressure and see how fast it loses pressure while sitting. It may just be draining the fuel rail back into the tank so the car has to refill the lines. Static fuel pressure seems to be a couple PSI low but that's no big deal. If it's not immediately noticeable then check every 10 minutes and record the pressure at each interval.
#4
Battery changed...holding steady at 13.8 volts.
Before starting (ignition at ACC), can hear the pump and line is pressurized to about 3 bar (43psi).
Problem is still there. When engine is off...fuel pressure in the line drops to zero. Should there be pressure in the fuel rail when engine is switched off?
Before starting (ignition at ACC), can hear the pump and line is pressurized to about 3 bar (43psi).
Problem is still there. When engine is off...fuel pressure in the line drops to zero. Should there be pressure in the fuel rail when engine is switched off?
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 12-20-2013 at 12:03 AM.
#5
Battery changed...holding steady at 13.8 volts.
Before starting (ignition at ACC), can hear the pump and line is pressurized to about 3 bar.
Problem is still there. When engine is off...fuel pressure in the line drops to zero. Should there be pressure in the fuel rail when engine is switched off?
Before starting (ignition at ACC), can hear the pump and line is pressurized to about 3 bar.
Problem is still there. When engine is off...fuel pressure in the line drops to zero. Should there be pressure in the fuel rail when engine is switched off?
Once you key off, it should hold the pressure for at least 10-15 minutes, dropping very slowly, eventually to 0 say overnight or so.
If it's dropping to 0 psi immediately you got a leaky injector and/or ck valve in the pump. Another possible cause (though never seen this) is fuel pressure regulator not holding pressure.
Wait a sec; this is a '96? Did you change to '95 fuel rail or something? Do you have a tune?
Also just noticed your lambda lite on; what codes are set?
#6
gdog
Wait a sec; this is a '96? Did you change to '95 fuel rail or something? Do you have a tune?
nope...96 fuel rail. Have ARD blue tune but not installed yet.
Also just noticed your lambda lite on; what codes are set?
Have not checked it
Fuel line pressure is back to 3 bar (ACC) before ignition. I even tried priming the line before starting...still same problem
Wait a sec; this is a '96? Did you change to '95 fuel rail or something? Do you have a tune?
nope...96 fuel rail. Have ARD blue tune but not installed yet.
Also just noticed your lambda lite on; what codes are set?
Have not checked it
Fuel line pressure is back to 3 bar (ACC) before ignition. I even tried priming the line before starting...still same problem
#7
#9
Checked the battery HOW ???
If you have the check engine light on it might have the reason the engine is hard to start and the loss of fuel pressure is just a secondary issue. First thing to do is find out what code you have. Maybe a crank or cam sensor is going out and it takes the computer a few more revolutions to identify where to start out from.
Have you done the basics and made sure all the connections at the battery, alternator, starter and fuse block are clean and tight ??
If you have the check engine light on it might have the reason the engine is hard to start and the loss of fuel pressure is just a secondary issue. First thing to do is find out what code you have. Maybe a crank or cam sensor is going out and it takes the computer a few more revolutions to identify where to start out from.
Have you done the basics and made sure all the connections at the battery, alternator, starter and fuse block are clean and tight ??
#11
1) changed ECU
2) lambda (CEL) light is off
3) spark plug is fine
Could it be because using N/A cam shafts in a turbo and the timing is retarded I have this problem?
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