I searched and didn't find this asked before. When I accelerate to pass/merge my coolant light will come on then go off. I assumed it was just sloshing in the tank with my last 850 till it started spitting coolant on the ground. The tempguage doesn't read high. I had the system flushed today and it still is doing it. Any ideas on items to check?

My serpentine belt squeals. I had it replaced twice and both times it was fine for a dayor three then starts squealing. Is something working loose? I am worried about over-tightening anything. Thanks for reading.

 

AlohaTom,

Greetings from Yokohama, Japan.

I'm sorry about the problems.

>I assumed it was just sloshing in the tank with my last 850 till it started spitting coolant on the ground.
That's what I've assumed too, but if the coolant is leaking, check to see the reservoir cap is tight. If it is, the cap or the reservoir may be leaking. The coolant level should be between MAX & MIN at cold, and should be at MAX or slightly above MAX (0.5~1 inch). If the coolant level is all right, the level sensor may be shot. I once had a similar problem and my coolant level sensor seems to have been shot. I got another sensor from a junkyard but never had it tried, as I had to leave the States before I could try it.

As to the accessory belt squeal, it should be nothing to worry about. The serpentine belt has an automatic tensioner, so the tension should be kept right at all times, unless the tensioner is shot. Non-OEM belt seems to squeal more easily than the OEM (Continental Tech is the OEM, it's $17.50+ shippingat FCP Groton: http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850drivebelt.htm). Or, *take the belt off (if you can) and spin the idler pulley, tensioner pulley & PWS pulley by hand to see if they squeal. If they don't, the problem could be non-OEM belt, leaking coolant is getting on the belt and causing slippage, or tensioner/PWS pulley/idler pulley needs replacement, or, the alternator pulley. Should you decide to replace the belt, go with longer belt; there are short (OEM) and longer length belts, and the longer one gives you more contact area with the alternator, which is definitely a plus.

*To loosen/take the belt off, you need a 1/2" drive breaker bar plus 3/4" adapter, or a 3/4" drive breaker bar. The dealer uses special adapter that fits perfectly in the tensioner pulley, but you can get the hang of it with a breaker bar after several tries.

I hope this helps.


JPN

 

Thanks for the info. So you don't think I'll have the same issue as with my last 850? I know no one can say for sure, but thanks. Or Mahalo!

 

You said your t-stat doesn't read right. You probably want to replace that.

 

Hi Tom,

>So you don't think I'll have the same issue as with my last 850?
I'm sorry but I cannot remember your last issue (as I make replies to about 20-30 posts/week). If the cooling system has never been serviced, this may be a good time to do it as summer is closing in on Hawaii. I would probably do the following but listen to other members as well:

Before doing anything, have the system pressure-tested with a pressure tester. If the pressure holds ok, *drain the system when the systems has completely cooled and with the reservoir cap off & the cabin heater at the hottest position. Loosen the drain **** on the engine block with a deep socket, being careful not to let the coolant drain on you. This part requires the front end to be on jackstands. When the block has finished draining, put some thread sealant on the last few threads of the block drain **** and tighten to specified torque. Tighten the radiator drain **** finger-tight,plus 1/16 of a turn with a wrenchafter it stops draining andproceed to the following with a service manual such as Haynes:

*You may not be able to completely drain the engine block, and when you remove the lower radiator hose, some coolant will drain from it too.

1. Replace coolant with 55 (distilled water)/45 antifreeze (coolant). This mixture will do for Hawaii's climate, but you can go with 50/50 too if you wish. I've always used Prestone brand's coolant, but other members seem to have been using other name brands and seem fine too as long it is safe for aluminum. I would stay away from pre-mixed solution. It eliminates mixing procedure, but you only get a half of what you get from 100% concentration.

2. Replace radiator hoses & clamps. The upper hose can be replaced with a flat-blade screwdriver but replacing the lower hose may be a bit challenging if you haven't done it on 850. The lower hose is long, and is embedded under many hoses & lines, and the air cleaner box must be out while you do this. Also, should you decide to do this yourself or at a generic garage (generic garage would be ok for cooling system servicing), make sure not to over-tighten the clamp on the radiator, as the resin part of the radiator can crack if the clamp is overtightened.

3. Replace the T-stat with an OEM unit, as well as the seal ring (should come with the new T-stat); the housing is held by 2 Torx screws (can't remember the size). There is no housing gasket, and the seal ring is the only thing that keeps coolant leak from the T-stat housing, so I usually put some waterpump/T-stat housing sealant material between the mating surfaces but this is not mandatory. Make sure that the little bleed valve on the T-stat is positioned at 12 O'Clock.

4. Replace as many rubber hoses & clamps in the system as possible. FCP Groton has a large selection of those hoses: http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850cooling.htm I did not replace the heater hoses, hoses that lead to the turbochargerand one very short hose that connects metal line in the back of the engine block, to the left of the block.

5. When you're sure that all hoses & connections are secure, refill the system from the reservoir. Refill slowly to avoid creation of air bubbles inside the system (though they'll bleed on their own later). You may not use full amount of coolant specified in a service manual, and it is ok as some coolant sits in the engine block.

6. Once you've filled the reservoir to MAX level, start the engine and let it idle for 15-20 minutes. The coolant level should drop as the T-stat opens. When this happens, slowly & carefully remove the reservoir cap and refill again, but this time keep the level between MAX & MIN. The level may drop again as you drive; refill the reservoir as necessary. And again, once the engine has cooled off completely and sits for a while (overnight is ideal), the reservoir level may again drop. This is usually the last time the coolant level drops, and do the final refill.

In case if the radiator is leaking, you may be able to defer replacement until later, by having a pre-mixed coolant in the trunk and keep topping up the reservoir. If the coolant level drops more than an inch/day, it may be time for a new radiator.

If you decide to have it done at a shop, you may want to tell them or give them a sheet of paper with these precautions I described. A conscientious shop would be happy to accept such suggestions.

If I have missed something, other members will supplement my mid-age moment.

I hope this helps.


JPN