Couple questions. First, does anyone have any technique or tip to getting that difficult bolt out on the lower passenger side engine mount? And I know I don't need to specify which bolt it is as there's only one difficult bolt on there.

Second, I think I'm getting way too much oil through my PCV into my intake hose. I took off my intake hose today and I had a small puddle of oil in there. Is this signs of a tired PCV system? I noticed that the front of my engine around the PCV is also wet (oil I'm assuming). The PCV isn't that old but it was on my old engine for a year and a half or so and that engine was in poor shape, maybe it prematurely ruined the PCV on it.

Thanks, much appreciated.

 

1. Break it loose with a wrench or jack the motor up some to get in there with either a socket or socket and swivel.

2.Check the small hoses first and PTC connections for clogs.

 

Yeah, that's what the general advice was on VS was to jack up the engine some more. And I'll try cleaning the ptc again, I cleaned it when I put it on maybe 500 miles ago. And I know all the ports going into the breather box from the block are clear.

 

Pay close attention to the small vacuum line that goes to the PTC.

Also if you can find an offset 17MM that will make it alot easier. I have an offset 11/16 that I use all the time.

BTW did you get your parking lights thing figured out?

Also why did you hack the wiring harness for the start?(PNP bypass)

I took the PNP off the old tranny(Well actually had a spare) then just stuck it back in the plug that used to go to the tranny. Then put a wire tie on and tucked it out of the way and called it done.

 

Yeah, they recommended an offset wrench as well, tomorrow I'll try and go pick a couple up.

No, I haven't figured out the parking lights yet, they're not really an issue right now as they aren't effecting anything, but I will try to see if anyone else is having that issue.

And I spliced the wires because that is what all of the write ups on VS said how to do it and that's what everyone else on there has done, so that's what I did, and it was easy and straightforward.

 

Oh ok on the wiring. For me it was just easier to put the PNP in.

I will have to read your VS post again on the lights to see exactly what is happening again.

 

They just stay on all the time. Boxpin recommended a resistor or something like that, I don't remember exactly, but I've never read someone else having to add something or if their parking lights are always on (only in the front).

 

DIODE, not resistor. It allows electricity to flow one way but not the other. It will allow the light to send power out but stop any power from coming back....hence, lighting your lights.

 

Sorry, my mistake. I've just never read or heard someone having to add one of those, so I want to find out if I did something or if others have the same issue before I go and start altering the wiring.

 

Did you turn the little screw on the headlight switch to turn the daytime running lights off?
If not then they will be on all the time.

 

I haven't tried that yet. This weekend I will. Car is still on jack stands. I did the lower passenger engine mount, new turn signal bulb sockets (the other gaskets were allowing water into the lenses), solid shifter bushings, new thermostat, new expansion tank/hose. I'm also adding a catch can and putting my orange injectors back in. My gas mileage was not up to par and the whole running rich thing was hopefully caused by me running whites on a stock tune. Hopefully.

 

Good luck!

 

Thats why I told you (gilber33) to disconnect the tap when the lights are on. If they stay on then the power is NOT coming from your tap. If they go out then it is from your tap and a DIODE will solve the problem.

 

yeah, but I don't know if disconnecting the splice is going to kill the car or not.

 

You will never know until you try. Its only a two second test to see if the lights stay on or not. If it kills the car...so what, complete your test and hook it back up.