Get fuel down to about 3-4 gallons left in tank. Add 4 bottles of methenol (HEET) from say WalMart.
Drive down highway about 5-10 miles. Go for inspection. Works wonders.

Depending upon how much oil you burned and if this was going on for awhile, you may have toasted the CAT.
If the O2 sensor is old, you may want to replace it. It can cause it to run rich.

Hydrocarbon (HC) failure- exceeds established standards for hydrocarbon

Air to fuel mixture may be too lean or too rich.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve may not be functioning properly (if equipped).
Vacuum leak in the system.
Exhaust Gas Re-Circulation (EGR) system may not be functioning properly (if equipped).
Ignition timing may not be properly set.
One or more spark plugs may not be performing as they should.
Catalytic converter may be partially clogged or not properly functioning.
Ignition system parts are not working properly.
Internal engine parts or equipment may not be functioning.
Various engine sensors may not be functioning.

Carbon monoxide(CO) failure- exceeds established standards for carbon monoxide
Air to fuel mixture may be too rich.
Idle speed is not correct.
Air filter may be partially clogged.
Choke may not be operating properly.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve may not be functioning properly.
Air or fuel problems, other equipment or engine malfunctions.
Catalytic converter may be partially clogged or not properly functioning.
Engine oil may be dirty and needs changing.
Various engine sensors may not be functioning.

Oxides of nitrogen (Nox) failure - exceeds established standards for oxides of nitrogen
Engine air to fuel mixture may be too lean.
Engine’s oxygen sensor may not be functioning properly.
Improper operation of the Exhaust Gas Re-Circulation (EGR) system (if equipped).
Malfunction of the engine spark advance system.
Air intake temperature may be too high.
Cooling system may not be functioning properly.
Catalytic converter may be partially clogged or not properly functioning.
Carbon deposits on the engine intake valves.


CO too high = Car runs rich, burns too much gas.
Bad carburetor adjustment, float too high, carburetor flooding, sticking secondary throttle, leaking fuel injector, leaking fuel pressure regulator, feedback system malfunction (oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, throttle position sensor), emissions vapor system malfunction (purge valve, canister clogged) Be aware that NOX will RISE after you fix a CO problem. This must be checked after a successful CO repair.

HC too high = unburned fuel in exhaust; car runs very rich or very lean. This is the trickiest condition because there are different causes. If the car is running rich (high CO), the HC can be high also. If the CO is very low and HC is high then the vehicle has a lean misfire.

If The CO is high, fix that problem first. If CO is low and HC is high look for engine skipping, misfire due to vacuum leaks, ignition timing set too advanced, ignition misfire problem (plugs, wires, cap), low fuel pressure, carburetor adjusted too lean. If you can’t find a reason for the high HC then perform balance test then compression test to check for engine mechanical problem.

NOX too high = NOX forms in normal combustion. NOX too high indicates high combustion chamber temperatures or malfunctioning post-combustion emission controls.

CO and HC must be normal before attempting to repair NOX failure. Anything that can create high combustion chamber temperatures will make NOX reading high. Engine overheating, air cleaner hot air door stuck closed, egr vale not functioning, clogged egr valve passage, lean fuel mixture, ignition timing set too high. The two main systems that reduce NOX on a car are the egr system and catalytic converter. If your car is pinging, the NOX will be too high. Pinging is a symptom of high combustion chamber temperature. If all the test readings are just a little too high (slightly high CO, HC, and NOX) it is likely the catalytic converter is damaged or empty. If your converter is supposed to have air injection and it is disabled, the converter will not function properly.

 

OK, I just performed the driving schedule that Tech posted.

At the end I let it idle for about a minute. Shut it down, plugged in the scanner. No change from theMonitor Status I originally posted (five incomplete). Started the engine and re-read the scanner. This time the EGR monitor showed ready, but four were still incomplete.

I drove the schedule again,scanned again, same status.Not sure if this means anything, but with the engine not running,the EGR monitor still shows incomplete. Start the engine andit shows ready.

Still no trouble codes.

Should I perform the driving schedule again and see if there's any change?

 

I told you it was a major PITA to get it done.
Thats why alot of states are bypassing the OBDII tests on Volvo's.

 

So should I keep repeating the driving schedule? Or is that a waste of time after a couple of tries?

 

The only thing you can do is keep driving.
I would maybe try contacting the state and see if there is a way around the OBDII readings. (readiness)

 

Well I may have made it worse, or I have an unrelated problem. Yesterday I cleaned out the throttle body, idle air control valve, intercooler, and the hoses that connect those items. I also replaced the fuel filter.

I put some RXP in the tank and took it for a drive. The engine was surging and stumbling and exhaust was smoking black. Eventually the check engine light came on. Code was P0103, MAF high. Unplugged the MAF and it idled better so I guess the MAF is toast.

Everything I cleaned was downstream of the MAF, so it doesn't seem like I could have caused the MAF failure. Any thoughts? I did spray carb cleaner in the IAC valve... Could that have gotten damaged and tripped the MAF code?

 

Sounds like the Mass Flow died.
Nothing you did would have caused it.

 

Pollock's car is a fuel injected turbo so he will have real trouble trying to adjust float levels etc. Also, as far as I'm aware, it's not possible to adjust the timing in any way. TheEMS does this after receiving relevant signals from various sensors etc.

 

I replaced the mass flow and air filter last night. Fired it up and drove it. It's not any better. Still cutting out under part throttle. I only drove a couple of blocks, so maybe the computer needs to adjust, but last time I replaced the mass flow it was an instant fix.

I'm so frustrated. Three weeks ago it had a fresh turbo and was running great, then it failed emissions, now it's not even driveable and I've dropped another $200 into it. I'm at a complete loss.

 

That really sucks sometimes I get so agrivated because I cant see the cars that I help with on the forums with issues like this. I would be able to find it alot quicker and help fix it if I could be there.

I know sorry me venting as well.
Any codes come up?

 

Don't be hard on yourself tech. You can't imagine how much you have helped so many of us on this board and in turn saved us money. I swear one time I was about ready to drive from Ohio to Florida just to have you look at my white car. It still has that problem with running rough for a period of time and then running great for sometimes months.

 

I know it just gets annoying sometimes.

 

This is totally embarassing, but I owe it to the people on here that have been helping me to admit it.

Today I discovered that I had forgotten to tighten the clamp on the upper intercooler hose, so the motor was sucking wind. That caused the MAF code. I put the old MAF back in and it was fine. Also replaced the plugs while I was at it because the unfiltered air fouled them out.

Drove the monitor-reset schedule again today. No improvement there.

Two of the monitors that are incomplete are O2 sensor and O2 heater. Given the high tailpipe readings, would it make sense to go ahead and replace the O2 sensor(s)? Maybe that would allow me to pass the tailpipe test.

Is there a way to test an O2 sensor w/ a voltmeter?

 

Not really they are a pain.
I have tried it before without good luck.
I had a harness when I installed my Air fuel ratio guage in my R. But the sensor only reads between .5-1.0 I believe the numbers are.

Do you have a scanner that reads realtime?

Don't sweat it about the clamp we all make mistakes. I still make them.

 

>Don't sweat it about the clamp we all make mistakes. I still make them.
Yes we all do(I still don't know of any medical doctorwho has never made a mistake[8D]). But as long as the mistakes we make do not jeopardise people's safety, mistakes teach usbeneficial lessons. Ibelieve that Tech, myself and other regular members herewould not make mistakes that would endanger people's lives.

I hope you can find some info out of the attached. If you decide to replace the O2 sensors, make sure to go with direct-fit OEM Bosch; some people have problems with Bosch universal O2 sensors.


JPN

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2nd post.


JPN

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3rd post.


JPN

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Well, it's been a few months since the last update on this. I replaced both O2 sensors about 2 months ago and kept driving. Drove the monitor-reset procedure again, which did not help.

Since I was into June and the inspection sticker expired in January, I decided I had to bite the bullet and take it in for an inspection, hoping I could pass the ASM test. After all, I had done quite a bit of work to it since the failure in January and it should be burning cleaner at this point.

Miraculously, it passed the OBDII check. And it's a good thing.... the inspector left it running for a few minutes, which was long enough for the engine to get good and warm and smoke to start billowing out of the tailpipe like Cheech & Chong were under there. They didn't sweat me about it though and slapped a sticker on it.

Out of curiosity, I plugged my scanner in again, and it still showed 4 monitors incomplete, which should fail it. Apparently the monitors either got ready just in time for the inspection, and then went incomplete again, or my scanner just didn't show the same result as the station's.

Then, within a day or two, the Check Engine light came on. It had never come on during this whole ordeal until now. Incredible. I don't remember the specific code but it was something to do with the cat.

Anyway, at this point, I'm done. It's going up for sale, probably this weekend, and I don't even plan to deal with the check engine light. I have given it my best shot, with lots of help on this forum. Thanks for all the help.

 

My 01 S40 failed State Inspection (Catalytic conv, Oxyzen Sensors not ready). State inspector and Volvo asked if battery was disconnected. Car was shipped from Europe inside a container with battery power off. Volvo recommends short and long trips to allow system cycling and reset. Handheld scanner reads no faulty codes, 4 mils (Monitors) ready. My recommendation do not disconnect your battery.

 

Yes you can, you need to know specific values. Do you have Volvo's Manual (not owners manual)?