Engine Pulling Time
#1
Engine Pulling Time
Hey what's up guys...been a while since i've been on, but a lot has happened (and hasn't happened) since i took the car into the shop for the manhole cover repair. Long story short, they didn't pull the engine and give me the front end so i could change the transmission. They did a hell of a job on fixing the car, and really hooked me up otherwise. But in the end, it's on me to pull the engine and swap the trans, along w/ the other things i'm gonna change.
So i started the job last night, pulled most the stuff out of the way from the top of the engine, eveything went great...my buddy and i made great time.
one question.. is there a drain on the transmission somewhere? The VADIS writeup mentioned that, but i couldn't find it.
Tonight things weren't nearly as smooth...i think i got a bit overconfident and didn't think things through in order. I'm stuck on figuring out how to disconnect a few things from the top
1) Where is the best place to disconnect the exhaust?
2) How do i disconnect the Heater Hoses at the firewall (i think they're heater hoses anyway, 2 rubber hoses that go through the firewall towards the driver side). They're a pain in the *** to try to get the hoseclamps off where they go into the engine.
3)What do i do about the AC Condenser and the hoses?
4) Does the EGR Pipe need to be disconnected from anywhere?
5) -Does the steering rack need to come off or disconnected from anywhere?
6) do i need to remove the power steeting pump? I would think that could stay with the engine as it's puleld since the lines run above the subframe.
So i screwed up when taking the driver axle out. i jumped the gun and pulled the caliper/roter off before breaking loose the nut at the end of the axle. Then i decided to grab the torch and heat the nut up becaues it wasn't breaking loose w/ my crappy impact gun. Yea, the brakes weren't on so the axle just spun freely...DOH!
So now i'm worried i probalby fried the wheel bearings on that side...i had a MAP gas torch on it for a good 4-5 mintues (on the axle nut). Does it sound like that would damage it? Would it be best to just cough up the cash and replace it to be safe?
So yea, at that point, i gave up for the night. Will have to hit it again tomorrow...
So i started the job last night, pulled most the stuff out of the way from the top of the engine, eveything went great...my buddy and i made great time.
one question.. is there a drain on the transmission somewhere? The VADIS writeup mentioned that, but i couldn't find it.
Tonight things weren't nearly as smooth...i think i got a bit overconfident and didn't think things through in order. I'm stuck on figuring out how to disconnect a few things from the top
1) Where is the best place to disconnect the exhaust?
2) How do i disconnect the Heater Hoses at the firewall (i think they're heater hoses anyway, 2 rubber hoses that go through the firewall towards the driver side). They're a pain in the *** to try to get the hoseclamps off where they go into the engine.
3)What do i do about the AC Condenser and the hoses?
4) Does the EGR Pipe need to be disconnected from anywhere?
5) -Does the steering rack need to come off or disconnected from anywhere?
6) do i need to remove the power steeting pump? I would think that could stay with the engine as it's puleld since the lines run above the subframe.
So i screwed up when taking the driver axle out. i jumped the gun and pulled the caliper/roter off before breaking loose the nut at the end of the axle. Then i decided to grab the torch and heat the nut up becaues it wasn't breaking loose w/ my crappy impact gun. Yea, the brakes weren't on so the axle just spun freely...DOH!
So now i'm worried i probalby fried the wheel bearings on that side...i had a MAP gas torch on it for a good 4-5 mintues (on the axle nut). Does it sound like that would damage it? Would it be best to just cough up the cash and replace it to be safe?
So yea, at that point, i gave up for the night. Will have to hit it again tomorrow...
#2
#3
RE: Engine Pulling Time
Yes the tranny has a drain plug. It faces the engine and is a 15/16 size for the wrench.
1.At the turbo.
2.There is plastic clips on the lines you have to push in the plastic clips on both sides then pull the lines out.
3.I would just move the compressor out of the way.
4.If you leave the manifold on the engine you should be fine.
5.Are you dropping the subframe?
6.You can leave the pump on there once the lines are off.
As for the axle problem do you have a big pry bar?
If so carefully tap it between the axle and the transmission to force it out of the transmission.
1.At the turbo.
2.There is plastic clips on the lines you have to push in the plastic clips on both sides then pull the lines out.
3.I would just move the compressor out of the way.
4.If you leave the manifold on the engine you should be fine.
5.Are you dropping the subframe?
6.You can leave the pump on there once the lines are off.
As for the axle problem do you have a big pry bar?
If so carefully tap it between the axle and the transmission to force it out of the transmission.
#4
RE: Engine Pulling Time
I am soooo close i can taste it.... Oh wait, that's just rust flakes and misc fluids that i'm tasting from being under the car all night.
Everything is disconnected, and the engine hoist is attached. We actually raised the engine a few inches last night, but didn't have the headroom for it to lift all the way out in my garage, so i need to drop the car jacks and try it again today... Keeping my fingers crossed that that i can get it to work somehow...
Everything is disconnected, and the engine hoist is attached. We actually raised the engine a few inches last night, but didn't have the headroom for it to lift all the way out in my garage, so i need to drop the car jacks and try it again today... Keeping my fingers crossed that that i can get it to work somehow...
#6
RE: Engine Pulling Time
Hey, another question... Any idea what size and type of bolts i should use to secure the block to my engine stand? I was thinkin i had to use the bolts that attach the transmisison housign to the engine, but i'm thinking those may not be long enough b/c of the standoffs on the engine stand brackets.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#7
#13
RE: Engine Pulling Time
Well now the afterglow of getting the engine out is starting to wear off...and my hands are finally rested from twisting and contorting in all different directions, not to mention feeling like i got in a fight with a brick wall.....anyway during the removal there were only a few complications. Most of them i can figure out, but the one that has me stumped is what to do about the refridgerant i lost while unbolting the AC compressor? Basically, my buddy was unbolting this while i was under the car. i guess he turned a bolt for one of the hoses, as we heard this PSSSSSSS as soon as he did...it was leaking for about 10-15 seconds before he tignened up the bolt and the leak was stopped. So i know i lost some refridgerant, but i have no idea how much i lost, and no idea how to refill it. It was kinda funny though, i hear it start leaking while i'm under the car, he just stands there not thinking to screw the bolt back in...so i have to tell him 'umm dude, you might wanna screw that back in' hehe. To his defense it was about 230 in the morning at this point in time and he's not used to marathon car sessions. So anyway...
Another friend said he has an AC recharging kit, but he's only used it on VW's. Does anyone here have experience w/ one of these? How do i check to find out how much i lost? How/where do i refill this on my car? Where can i buy the refridgerant incase my buddy doesn't have
Thanks
Another friend said he has an AC recharging kit, but he's only used it on VW's. Does anyone here have experience w/ one of these? How do i check to find out how much i lost? How/where do i refill this on my car? Where can i buy the refridgerant incase my buddy doesn't have
Thanks
#15
RE: Engine Pulling Time
+1 As long as it was blowing out and did not leak for long I doubt air got into the system. If it was empty then you have to put a vacuum on it to get moisture out before refilling. If you do have to add any I bet it is less than a can and they use R134 which is available anywhere. You should be fine.
#18
I did not long after spending 15 min. searching this site, found a great one with tons of pictures:
Engine and Transmission removal:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow...on_Removal.pdf
Engine and Transmission removal:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow...on_Removal.pdf
#19
I did not long after spending 15 min. searching this site, found a great one with tons of pictures:
Engine and Transmission removal:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow...on_Removal.pdf
Engine and Transmission removal:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow...on_Removal.pdf
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