Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Engine seized?

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Old 07-06-2011, 10:27 AM
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Default Engine seized?

I have a 1996 Volvo 850 with 140k miles. It had a slow oil leak and was not driven for approximately 1 year. Unfortunately I did not check the oil level before jumping it off. The car was running for a couple of minutes while still connected to the other vehicle, and then it just died. Steering wheel is locked up as well as all the gear shift. I beleive the oil had drained out and the motor may be locked.

Can anyone advise on what I should do? I am not mechanically inclined and would like to actually sell the vehicle. Just not sure where to start.

I appreciate any advice.
 
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:39 AM
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Did you check the oil level after it shut off? The steering wheel is locked when the car is off. Gearshift won't move without the key in the ignition in spot two either unless you hold down that one button right next to the shifter (I don't remember what it's called).
 
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:52 AM
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I sure did. It looked pretty dry and gunky. If I remember correctly, the key was in the ignition and it was switched on (although it's been a while so I can't say for certain).
 

Last edited by rspi; 07-10-2011 at 03:13 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:16 PM
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Oil doesn't tend to leak from engines when not being used unless the sump is cracked or similar.
Why do you think the engine is seized? Did you try to turn it over on the starter after it stopped running?
 
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Old 07-07-2011, 06:48 AM
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I did continue to try to start it. I guess I was thinking it was seized because there didn't appear to be any oil in it when I checked and it would not turn over at all. Completely dead. Maybe it's another issue? The check engine light had been on although it was driving fine. When I had it checked out there was an issue with maybe the fuel tank (seals??). Can't remember offhand. I'm sure I still have the print out of the codes.
 
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:49 PM
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hows the voltage on the battery? you would think if it was actually seized and the starter was trying to turn it over you would smell burning magnet coming from under the intake. are you sure the starter is still good?
 
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:24 PM
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Also look for signs of mice... those little bastards love wires... you might be getting a short
 
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Old 07-10-2011, 03:11 PM
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but just to be clear..

start by putting oil in it.. maybe its only missing 2 L..
 
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Old 07-10-2011, 03:22 PM
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Exclamation How to jump a car...

A seized motor will NOT stop a car from coming out of park nor lock the steering wheel. Most likely you blew your ECU or cam sensor, ignition, or some other part by not jumping it properly (not to mention leaving it connected after the car started).

These electronic cars (post 1993) do not like jumps. As the manual states, proceed with causion.
https://www.customers.volvocars.com/...412.htm#pg4.14

The main thing is this...
  1. Good battery gets both cables.
  2. Bad battery get possitive cable and the ground goes somewhere else, like strut mount bolt. Yes you may have to split the wires a little but it's better split wires than blown ECU.
  3. Rev the good battery to about 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes to give a good jump/charge.
  4. Try to start the dead car and don't be afraid to hold the ignition key for more than 1 or 2 seconds. It will likely take 3 to 5 seconds to turn over and start.
I actually seen a guy about to hook not 1 but 2 vehicles up to his dead car battery. About to destroy 2 or 3 cars.
 

Last edited by rspi; 07-10-2011 at 07:57 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:42 PM
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Lots of urban myths about jumping cars....never had a problem jumping late model cars the conventional way. Don't see where you get leaving the two cars connected for a while would cause problems, never seen it, no reason for it to be an issue.
There is absolutely NO WAY jumping a car can cause an ECU sensor to fail, all power has to go through the ECU via grounding and the ECU would fail first.
I've also never had an issue jumping cars directly to battery terminals at both ends.
 
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Old 07-10-2011, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Typhoon
Lots of urban myths about jumping cars....never had a problem jumping late model cars the conventional way. Don't see where you get leaving the two cars connected for a while would cause problems, never seen it, no reason for it to be an issue.
There is absolutely NO WAY jumping a car can cause an ECU sensor to fail, all power has to go through the ECU via grounding and the ECU would fail first.
I've also never had an issue jumping cars directly to battery terminals at both ends.
It's like roulette, you may be 1 of 100 to get hit but if you can avoid it, do.
 
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rspi
It's like roulette, you may be 1 of 100 to get hit but if you can avoid it, do.
It's nothing like roulette, it's a myth.
In the last four years I've jumped over 200 cars, all by simply attaching to the battery terminals, and I'd even leave them connected after starting for a few minutes.
Like I said, urban myth. If something failed on a jump start, it was most definitely unrelated to the start. The question is, why did the car need a jump in the first place?
 
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:10 PM
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Ahhhhhhhhhhh, the battery was to weak to start the car???
 
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