First of all, i tried to change the spark plugs this morning but unfortunately the torx bolts that hold the spark plg cover were very tight. Despite using the correct size torx bit, and being very careful, they stripped. I was undelievable how tight they were. What do i do now? use a dremel and then a flathead to get them out?

Next question is, i am getting the common suspension noise from the front. What is more commonly known to go bad? The strut mount? or the spring seat? and what goes bad in the spring seat that makes the clunk noise? Do i need to get an alignment done if i take the strut assembly apart?
Even with the mount or seat being noisy, is it safe to drive it this way? or will it fall apart?

Thanks

 

Hi,

>Despite using the correct size torx bit, and being very careful, they stripped.
It happens quite often, the reason why I hate Torx[8D].

You could either use a hammer & narrow-head chisel or center punch and see if you can turn it by hitting CCW direction (spray some PB Blaster too). Or, take out all the rest of the Torx and see if you can turn the whole cover CCW, sometimesthe one last fastener turns as you turnwhatever it is holding. If these don't work, you may have to use a drill it and use Easy-out kind of tool, or wait until Tech shows up.

The suspension noise is probably from the upper spring seats, they are known to go bad. The metal guide for the strut piston rod gets loose from the rest of the part and allows some play, which causes the clunking noise. If your car runs straight with your hands off the steering after the job is done, you can defer alignment a bit later. Even though it is not dangerous to drive your car like that, I would replace them asap, as the rest of the front-end suffers accelerated wear, including the tyres. Also, if you can afford, I would replace the following parts as well:

1. Strut top cap
2. Strut bump stop
3. Strut special washer
4. All lock nuts
5. Strut upper mounts (sit on top of the spring seats)

I hope this helps.


JPN

 

Hi and thanks for the reply. I took the car to my mechanic friend who somehow managed to get the torx bolt loosened.

I have now another question about the rear brakes. I know its been discussed here a few times. I get this loud bass type of sound from the passenger rear right before the car comes to a stop. I replaced the brake pads and noticed that on the noisy side, there was no retainer thing ( the thing that looks like a cross). The other side had it however. I replaced everything without the thing on the noisy side since i didnt have one. The noise is still there. Would this piece missing cause the sound to come? I have read that it is better to get the half shims or to cut the existing shims to make them half shims. I would really appreciate help on this issue. Thanks again!

 

Hi Huzzsaba,

I would definitely buy the retainer kit and do both sides. You'll need a pin punch & a hammer to drive out + install the pins. Also, if you can remove the pads with minimal effort, do so and clean the entire area with a can of brake cleaner and a tooth brush. The kit I bought was of Scan-Tech of Sweden and consisted of the retainers and pins.

I originally had full-size shims and they were not making noise, but the new ones I bought were of half-size. Either way, you can apply silicone-based or molybdenum-based grease on all metal-to-metal contact areas, EXCEPT the friction surfaces. Generic brake-quiet compounds don't seem to work very well, so get either silicone or moly-based grease. I used CV-joint grease and the noise never came back.

As a reference, FCP Groton is my primary parts source:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850brakes.htm

Their shims seem to be of full-size, but as long as you apply silicone/moly grease, I think the difference is minimal but it's just me.

I hope this helps.


JPN

 

I would install the Half shims and replace all the hardware spring clips and pins.

I have tried pretty much everything to get rid of the noise on Customers cars.
The only thing that really go rid of the noise is the half shims.

 

I can cut the ones already there to half shims right?

 

You can but the full half of them need to be in the top side of the pad.
It might just be easier to buy a set.

That stuff is a pain to cut.(Been there done that)

 

Hey sup fellas,
In regards to the brakes, this is tottaly weird, but the only thing that will help brake noise is installing OEM brake components. I know this sounds like I am Volvo spokes person, but the onlything that will get rid of that noise is OEM parts, I know I have been hru this B4.

 

Hello Lukeman,

Greetings from Chicagoland.

I partially agree with you, that OEM or of higher quality parts are essential to eliminating the stubborn brake squeak.

However, in some cases, using OEM parts alone still does not eliminate the squeak. I used all OEM parts; Brembo rotors, Roulands pads, Scan-Tech anti-rattle spring kits, etc... But the rear kept squeaking. What killed the noise in the end, in my particular case, was the application of CV-joint grease. In general, CV-joint grease is of molybdenum-base, and moly is designed for high-pressure application. In this case, it is a good application for brake components. As an alternative, silicone-based grease seems to work just as well.

I did a bit of research a while ago regarding the brake noise, and it seems that there are still some aspects of it that are unknown. The only thing everyone knows is that there is (are) a point where metal-to-metal contacts are vibrating at a higher rate, which in turn produces that annoying squeak.

I wonder if there's someone out there who has tried ceramic pads, such as Akebono Ceramics. Any other pads, especially cheaper semi-metallic would be more prone to producing squeak.

Cheers,


JPN

 

I used all OEM parts and until I put the half shims on, it made the bass noise. The half shims are pretty cheap at the dealer. I walked in and said I need half shims for my 850 and they walked over and grabbed them. Didn't even bother looking them up in the computer. Said they are pretty common.