Hi, everyone. I did an engine rebuild and took the head and block to a machine shop for cleaning, honing, acid dip, hot tank, and new valve seals (painted black also). Put the motor back together with new seals, rings, rod and main bearings taking my sweet time to do this perfectly. My issue was I didn't have the guide sleeves the machine shop didn't return them. No big deal, I still did the head gasket and put the head on and connected the turbo no issue since the motor wasn't in the car. I cranked the car a few times just to get the oil to lubricate before starting it and when I started it after about a minute oil started pumping out of the reservoir fast . So I took the head off thinking maybe something was off because of the guide sleeves. Put new sleeves in with a smile on my face hoping I just solved the issue and I can have my car back to start my new job at Volvo. Of course it wasn't that simple. I repeated the process to start the car and same result. Oil seems to be dumping into the cooling system and pumping straight out the reservoir. The block is fine. Compression test is 180,160,180,180,180. Head was taken back to machine shop and all is well with it. So this rules out motor and sealing. I'm going to bypass the oil cooler to see if that helps but what is strange, my radiator it's barely 2 years old. I'm here to pick everyone's brain that can help with any ideas.

 

Isn't 160 low compared to the others?

 

agreed 160 seems low specially after a rebuild. and what reservoir are you referring to?

 

I was thinking the same thing but I have been told it isn't a big deal. Also I talked to the head tech at Volvo and 3 other techs and everyone is scratching their heads. I mentioned the oil cooler and they said it wouldn't pump into the cooling system that fast. Idk what I'm missing. I did lap the valves and replaced valve seals. Is it possible that one the valve seals near/on cylinder 2 came loose and is causing this issue?

 

The low number should not be an issue.

Why didn't the head shop do the valves?

Are you connecting the radiator? Where is the oil coming out of?

 

Is it possible that you crossed the turbo oil and coolant lines? Just guessing here. I see no other way for oil to be pumped into the coolant reservoir.

 

The oil is coming from the coolant reservoir. Lapped the valves and did valve seals myself to save $230. The radiator is connected. The turbo oil and coolant lines are just about dummy proof because they are pre-bent.

 

Ruptured radiator (internally)? Allowing oil to run through the radiator into the coolant tank?

Out of ideas...

 

That is likely or it's at the head gasket. Since the turbo lines are pre-bent it is pretty fool proof but I'd eye ball them again to make sure compared to a few pictures of other turbo line routing.

You pretty much are down to radiator or head gasket. You can pop off the oil cooler lines and use some fuel line to bypass the radiator. Same way you tie the heater hose lines together to bypass a leaking heater core. If the cooler is ruptured you will not see the oil in the expansion tank and as it warms up and builds pressure you should see coolant start to seep (pour) out the lower oil cooler fitting.

As for the 160psi reading ... daily drive it's not a big thing but if you're planning on building that engine you need to do a leak down test and find out if it's the valves or rings. Or if it's related to the oil leaking into the cooling system and some of your compression on that one cylinder is leaking there too

 

Hi, everyone. I had some time to check this theory out and this is what I did. I put a bucket under the radiator on the side the oil cooler lines connect to. I disconnected the oil cooler lines. Next I took the upper radiator hose and started pouring water into it. After pouring about half a gallon, low and behold, the top oil cooler connector on the radiator started pouring water out and into the empty bucket I prepared. This method actually didn't require me to bypass, just check for a leak. I seriously want to thank everyone for their input. I will be back to let everyone know how the car is doing when I put a new radiator in in the morning. I start working for Volvo Thursday and I find my problem on Tuesday. Seems to be a good week for me so far.

 

Yours must have a pretty good sized crack in it. I was thinking you'd need to have it running for it to build some pressure and leak.

I guess another way would have been to put a cooling system pressure tester on it to see if it leaked into the cooler but it's always nice when it's easy like in this case.

 

I'll bet that was a huge relief.

 

Actually it was but now after it running good and mixing, it's no longer mixing but if someone can watch this video and give me an idea. While the car is forced to stay running the brake peddle feels as if the car is in park and off (stiff as he'll). Here is the link,

https://db.tt/PEzBh3w3

 

Issue resolved. Purge valve and main relay replaced.