1997 850 GLT 2.4 Turbo. I am getting a Low Volts on Bank 1, and a Too rich on Bank 1 codes thrown. I have replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button, fuel filter, alternator, drive belt, air pump, fan relay.

My check engine light came on the other day, and threw these codes. I've been told it could be my ignition coil. I did a pressure test on all cylinders. Fuel pressure regulator check out fine. All plugs are clean and injectors, as far as I can tell, are flowing fine.

Anyone have any ideas. It seems to run okay if I keep the car out of boost. When I keep the RPM's below 3k, it runs ok, but anything above it, the car dies.

Thanks in advance,
Rob

 

When you replaced all parts, did you use OEM parts? Volvos are very sensitive to non-OEM parts.

I just went over the manual and it seems the first easy thing you can do is to inspect for intake/exhaust piping leaks.

Then, the manual says:

Check all spark plugs, cylinder compression, cooling
system, ignition wiring, and distributor cap and rotor. Repair as
necessary. If any readings are incorrect, check RPM sensor tip and hole down by flywheel/connecting flange for damage, scratches, and metal particles. If RPM sensor and hole are okay, retest using new flywheel.

Start engine and run at idle. Connect voltmeter between ignition coil
connector terminal No. 15 and ground. If voltmeter reads battery
voltage, go to next step. If voltmeter does not read battery voltage,
check voltage supply connectors at junction box.
13) Turn ignition off. Wait about 2 minutes. Disconnect power
stage 4-pin connector. Connect ohmmeter between power stage connector
terminal No. 1 and ground. If ohmmeter reads about zero ohms, go to
next step. If ohmmeter does not read about zero ohms, check power
stage ground connector for poor terminal contact. Repair as necessary,
then go to next step.
14) Check wiring between power stage connector terminal No. 4
and ECM terminal B11, wiring between power stage connector terminal
No. 1 and ground, and wiring between power stage connector terminal
No. 3 and battery voltage for an intermittent open circuit, short
circuit to ground, or short circuit to voltage. Ensure all connectors
are clean and tight. Repair as necessary, then go to next step.

See attached for RPM sensor location. I believe the sensor is Hall Effect Switch, which is also called out in the "Turbo Fault Without Codes" section in the manual.

And of course, wait for replies from other members.


JPN

 

I did, I used Bougicord wires, OEM distributor and button, NGK iridium plugs that were like $9 each, rebuilt OEM alternator, New OEM Airpump, etc... I was made aware of the sensitivity of Volvo's and their parts, so I spent the extra money on OEM.

Great run down, thanks for the advice. I will try those things and get back to you.

-Rob

 

Great, will wait for updates. In the meantime, I believe others would be able to give you different things to check.


JPN

 

What is the exact code numbers?

 

P0131
P0172

I called on it and was told that it could be the front O2 sensor. Any certain brand and what about a universal vs. Direct fit?

Thanks again

 

Yes looks like bad sensor codes. I would only use a Bosch direct fit sensor.

 

+1; forget universal sensor.


JPN