How to replace the voltage regulator w/o removing the alternator
#1
05-21-2014, 12:28 AM
How to replace the voltage regulator w/o removing the alternator
Below is a guide to how to remove the voltage regulator without removing the alternator. I replaced mine after lots of time researching what was going on with my electrical and charging system and the car (97 850 NA) has been running well since. The job would take me literally ten minutes now since I know what I'm doing but probably 30 mins for the first time.
To summarize all that was happening I think my voltage regulator was intermittently functioning so when it was failing my alternator would not charge the battery and it would lose all electrical power until it didn't even have enough for spark and the car would putter out. This is the link describing the issues I was having: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ied-fwy-72867/
I did two things and really am not sure which one solved the problem but my hunch is that it was replacing the voltage regulator.
First thing I did: Replace the voltage regulator on the alternator: Regulator Brush Holder Volvo 850 Series 2 3L 2 4L 4CYL Engine 1996 1997 | eBay
Second thing I did: Add an extra positive cable from the battery terminal to the alternator with a fuse in the middle.
TO REPLACE THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR without removing the alternator:
0. Disconnect the battery
1. Give yourself more access to the regulator: Remove the oil dipstick holder--there's a bolt underneath the holder and once you remove that, the whole dipstick holder just pulls out from the oil pan. Good time to replace the LOWER dipstick O ring.
2. Remove the positive battery cable from the alternator. Also remove the plastic sense wire.
3. Remove the black plastic covering over the alternator: Remove the three phillips screws. Then there are three tabs on the outside of this plastic covering which need to be pryed open slightly with a flathead screwdriver in order to remove it. Once the screws are out and the tabs are pulled back a bit the whole plastic cover pops off.
4. There are two more screws (phillips I believe) that hold the voltage regulator in. Remove those and replace with the new voltage regulator.
5. Replace parts in reverse order. Don't forget the sense wire. I originally bought a really cheap voltage regulator without the sense wire connection piece and it didn't work out. The one on ebay for $40 has been great so far. The OEM bosch one is ~ $150 so you might as replace the whole alternator for $200 from FCP groton which then comes with a bosch regulator.
The first picture shows the sense wire with the white plastic end on it. The middle picture is of the voltage regulator with the metal tab where the white plastic end of the sense wire plugs onto. The last picture is of the black plastic covering of the alternator with the three phillips screws and the three plastic tabs.
To summarize all that was happening I think my voltage regulator was intermittently functioning so when it was failing my alternator would not charge the battery and it would lose all electrical power until it didn't even have enough for spark and the car would putter out. This is the link describing the issues I was having: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ied-fwy-72867/
I did two things and really am not sure which one solved the problem but my hunch is that it was replacing the voltage regulator.
First thing I did: Replace the voltage regulator on the alternator: Regulator Brush Holder Volvo 850 Series 2 3L 2 4L 4CYL Engine 1996 1997 | eBay
Second thing I did: Add an extra positive cable from the battery terminal to the alternator with a fuse in the middle.
TO REPLACE THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR without removing the alternator:
0. Disconnect the battery
1. Give yourself more access to the regulator: Remove the oil dipstick holder--there's a bolt underneath the holder and once you remove that, the whole dipstick holder just pulls out from the oil pan. Good time to replace the LOWER dipstick O ring.
2. Remove the positive battery cable from the alternator. Also remove the plastic sense wire.
3. Remove the black plastic covering over the alternator: Remove the three phillips screws. Then there are three tabs on the outside of this plastic covering which need to be pryed open slightly with a flathead screwdriver in order to remove it. Once the screws are out and the tabs are pulled back a bit the whole plastic cover pops off.
4. There are two more screws (phillips I believe) that hold the voltage regulator in. Remove those and replace with the new voltage regulator.
5. Replace parts in reverse order. Don't forget the sense wire. I originally bought a really cheap voltage regulator without the sense wire connection piece and it didn't work out. The one on ebay for $40 has been great so far. The OEM bosch one is ~ $150 so you might as replace the whole alternator for $200 from FCP groton which then comes with a bosch regulator.
The first picture shows the sense wire with the white plastic end on it. The middle picture is of the voltage regulator with the metal tab where the white plastic end of the sense wire plugs onto. The last picture is of the black plastic covering of the alternator with the three phillips screws and the three plastic tabs.
#4
03-27-2019, 03:22 PM
#6
04-09-2019, 02:17 PM
voltage regulator; too tight to remove while alternator installed
1995 Volvo 960 almost has enough space to remove voltage regulator while alternator is installed, but I could not remove the last screw while alternator was still on engine. Just too tight a fit.
Below is a guide to how to remove the voltage regulator without removing the alternator. I replaced mine after lots of time researching what was going on with my electrical and charging system and the car (97 850 NA) has been running well since. The job would take me literally ten minutes now since I know what I'm doing but probably 30 mins for the first time.
To summarize all that was happening I think my voltage regulator was intermittently functioning so when it was failing my alternator would not charge the battery and it would lose all electrical power until it didn't even have enough for spark and the car would putter out. This is the link describing the issues I was having: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ied-fwy-72867/
I did two things and really am not sure which one solved the problem but my hunch is that it was replacing the voltage regulator.
First thing I did: Replace the voltage regulator on the alternator: Regulator Brush Holder Volvo 850 Series 2 3L 2 4L 4CYL Engine 1996 1997 | eBay
Second thing I did: Add an extra positive cable from the battery terminal to the alternator with a fuse in the middle.
TO REPLACE THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR without removing the alternator:
0. Disconnect the battery
1. Give yourself more access to the regulator: Remove the oil dipstick holder--there's a bolt underneath the holder and once you remove that, the whole dipstick holder just pulls out from the oil pan. Good time to replace the LOWER dipstick O ring.
2. Remove the positive battery cable from the alternator. Also remove the plastic sense wire.
3. Remove the black plastic covering over the alternator: Remove the three phillips screws. Then there are three tabs on the outside of this plastic covering which need to be pryed open slightly with a flathead screwdriver in order to remove it. Once the screws are out and the tabs are pulled back a bit the whole plastic cover pops off.
4. There are two more screws (phillips I believe) that hold the voltage regulator in. Remove those and replace with the new voltage regulator.
5. Replace parts in reverse order. Don't forget the sense wire. I originally bought a really cheap voltage regulator without the sense wire connection piece and it didn't work out. The one on ebay for $40 has been great so far. The OEM bosch one is ~ $150 so you might as replace the whole alternator for $200 from FCP groton which then comes with a bosch regulator.
The first picture shows the sense wire with the white plastic end on it. The middle picture is of the voltage regulator with the metal tab where the white plastic end of the sense wire plugs onto. The last picture is of the black plastic covering of the alternator with the three phillips screws and the three plastic tabs.
To summarize all that was happening I think my voltage regulator was intermittently functioning so when it was failing my alternator would not charge the battery and it would lose all electrical power until it didn't even have enough for spark and the car would putter out. This is the link describing the issues I was having: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ied-fwy-72867/
I did two things and really am not sure which one solved the problem but my hunch is that it was replacing the voltage regulator.
First thing I did: Replace the voltage regulator on the alternator: Regulator Brush Holder Volvo 850 Series 2 3L 2 4L 4CYL Engine 1996 1997 | eBay
Second thing I did: Add an extra positive cable from the battery terminal to the alternator with a fuse in the middle.
TO REPLACE THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR without removing the alternator:
0. Disconnect the battery
1. Give yourself more access to the regulator: Remove the oil dipstick holder--there's a bolt underneath the holder and once you remove that, the whole dipstick holder just pulls out from the oil pan. Good time to replace the LOWER dipstick O ring.
2. Remove the positive battery cable from the alternator. Also remove the plastic sense wire.
3. Remove the black plastic covering over the alternator: Remove the three phillips screws. Then there are three tabs on the outside of this plastic covering which need to be pryed open slightly with a flathead screwdriver in order to remove it. Once the screws are out and the tabs are pulled back a bit the whole plastic cover pops off.
4. There are two more screws (phillips I believe) that hold the voltage regulator in. Remove those and replace with the new voltage regulator.
5. Replace parts in reverse order. Don't forget the sense wire. I originally bought a really cheap voltage regulator without the sense wire connection piece and it didn't work out. The one on ebay for $40 has been great so far. The OEM bosch one is ~ $150 so you might as replace the whole alternator for $200 from FCP groton which then comes with a bosch regulator.
The first picture shows the sense wire with the white plastic end on it. The middle picture is of the voltage regulator with the metal tab where the white plastic end of the sense wire plugs onto. The last picture is of the black plastic covering of the alternator with the three phillips screws and the three plastic tabs.
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