hydraulic lifter noise
#1
#2
#3
#4
Well, injector cleaner does more than just clean injectors. It also cleans valves and other things. Anywhere gas gets, this cleaner can clean. So, what I'm saying is that you may have a valve ticking, running the cleaner in there may clean the valves enough to stop that.
Also what type of oil do you use? Which lifter is sticking?
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http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...ns/lifters.htm
Also what type of oil do you use? Which lifter is sticking?
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http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...ns/lifters.htm
Last edited by rspi; 12-07-2012 at 07:01 PM. Reason: link
#5
Also you didn't mention your mileage on the odometer, what you use for oil (weight) and how often you change it...
#6
so you mean l should try and use lucas gas treatment?l have used seafoam but its still ticking. this only happens when its warm. l bought the car with 92000 miles on it this year and it was ticking but the dealer said its not a problem.now l have 102000 miles on it. also l use castrol 10w-30 and just switched to mobil 1. l do an oil change every three to four months
#7
#8
Are you sure its coming from the lifters?
My lifters only klack around when I let the car sit for more than 3 days..
My oil pump looses its prime, because of a weak spring and worn piston in the pump.
My oil pump makes a ticking noise once the car gets warm, thats why Im asking if your sure its coming from the lifters..
Is there a way you can take a video of the sound and upload it to you tube?
My lifters only klack around when I let the car sit for more than 3 days..
My oil pump looses its prime, because of a weak spring and worn piston in the pump.
My oil pump makes a ticking noise once the car gets warm, thats why Im asking if your sure its coming from the lifters..
Is there a way you can take a video of the sound and upload it to you tube?
#10
Man, that sounds pretty bad. Sounds like a cam knocking. I would say that you have a bad valve or even a cam bearing bad. Could be a lifter, I'm not sure. Have you had a compression test done?
http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...ssion_test.htm
http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...ssion_test.htm
Last edited by rspi; 12-02-2011 at 07:30 PM. Reason: add link
#13
You could have a valve sticking open or closed or piston sleaves stuck. A compression test will let you know the condition of your motor. Like taking it's blood pressure. Did you read the link I sent. If your compression is bad, you have to decide to get some real motor work done. It could be a new or repair head or may need an entire motor.
#16
ATF is a stronger detergent and has been known to free stuff up but if you have already used seafoam I would see what a compression test tells you. You really do NOT have a lot of miles on the car but you never know how long a previous owner let it sit or if they let old oil run in the car for 2 years because they just didn't drive it for a while. I'm really a little liery of low mileage cars. 6,000 miles per years is not a lot, it had to sit for a while at one point.
The readings on that motor should be at least 145 psi. Some gauges are different and may give you totally different readings. From what I have learned, as long as they are within 15% of each other you should be good. Example: 155, 152, 163, 145, 155. A 15% spread between 3 and 4 would be 21 psi and it's only 18 psi so these numbers should be good. Now if you have a bad number, like #4 being 120, you have something going on with either that piston or valves on that cylinder. Remember that each cylinder has 4 valves so you could have a damaged or stuck valve on that cylinder or the piston could have stuck sleave rings or something like that. They do a bleed down test to figure out what's next. If your numbers are not good I'd let a pro dig into it.
That stuff really is beyond me so you'll have to wait for a real motor guy or gal to help you from there. I did our test to see if it was worth replacing the cam seals.
How long have you been having these issues? To me, it is something to be concerned about. I don't get what some of these dealers are telling people. They want to wait till the thing throws a rod or something before they order work???
The readings on that motor should be at least 145 psi. Some gauges are different and may give you totally different readings. From what I have learned, as long as they are within 15% of each other you should be good. Example: 155, 152, 163, 145, 155. A 15% spread between 3 and 4 would be 21 psi and it's only 18 psi so these numbers should be good. Now if you have a bad number, like #4 being 120, you have something going on with either that piston or valves on that cylinder. Remember that each cylinder has 4 valves so you could have a damaged or stuck valve on that cylinder or the piston could have stuck sleave rings or something like that. They do a bleed down test to figure out what's next. If your numbers are not good I'd let a pro dig into it.
That stuff really is beyond me so you'll have to wait for a real motor guy or gal to help you from there. I did our test to see if it was worth replacing the cam seals.
How long have you been having these issues? To me, it is something to be concerned about. I don't get what some of these dealers are telling people. They want to wait till the thing throws a rod or something before they order work???
Last edited by rspi; 12-02-2011 at 10:10 PM. Reason: info
#17
You may want to ask some folks over on MATT'S site. A few of those guys dig in deep.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...wforum.php?f=1
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...wforum.php?f=1
#18
#19
thanks guys. to my understanding u really know alot. l will do a compression test and let you know the outcome.l think it is a sticky valve because it only makes that noise when its warm may be the car was sitting for too long without use. but the dealer l got the car from said its ok because the oil rises and blah blah.l dont know what he is talking about.but l will do the compression test and let you guys know.thanks
#20
I looked in the manual that I have and it has a laundry list of reasons that may cause a "noisy valve train".
Worn or bent push rods
Worn rocker arms or bridged pivots
Dirty or chips in valve lifters
Excessive valve lifter leak down*
Broken or cocked valve springs*
To much valve stem or guide clearance
Valve bent*
Losse rocker arms
Excessive valve seat run-out
Missing valve lock
Excessively worn camshaft lobes
Plugged valve lifter oil holes
Faulty valve lifter check ball
Rocker arm nut installed upside down -
Valve lifter incorrect for engine -
Faulty push rod seat or lifter plunger
So, there is a number of things that can be wrong. My guess is that you have one of the 3 with the * but I really don't now.
I'm looking for more details on the compression test but have not seen it yet.
How long has this been going on?
Worn or bent push rods
Worn rocker arms or bridged pivots
Dirty or chips in valve lifters
Excessive valve lifter leak down*
Broken or cocked valve springs*
To much valve stem or guide clearance
Valve bent*
Losse rocker arms
Excessive valve seat run-out
Missing valve lock
Excessively worn camshaft lobes
Plugged valve lifter oil holes
Faulty valve lifter check ball
Rocker arm nut installed upside down -
Valve lifter incorrect for engine -
Faulty push rod seat or lifter plunger
So, there is a number of things that can be wrong. My guess is that you have one of the 3 with the * but I really don't now.
I'm looking for more details on the compression test but have not seen it yet.
How long has this been going on?