+1 With BoxPin on the compression readings. This manual says 156 - 185.

Did not say how to preform it (analyze or do a leak down). Maybe you can google it.

 

Do the compression test first, if your numbers are off on any one or two of the cylinders for example ... 162, 165, 158, 120, 162...
The you use the leak down tester to pin point what is causing the low compression.

other wise replacing the lifters is fairly simple but in depth job. The reason why is if your going to pull the valve cover while you are there you should replace your valve seals, with that milage chances are that you are leaking.

But If yor going to do the valve seals you might as well pull the head, change the head gasket, Lap the valves and replace all the seals and gaskets.

Its usually a two day job taking your time and doing it right.
If you do it all Timing Belt, Head gasket, lapping valves, seals, gaskets, and lifters your looking at around $360 for just parts and thats if you dont have a bent valve or anything, and your doing the work yourself.

Just trying to give you a round about of what you might need to do.. It may not be worth it to you... You are the only one who can make that decision..

 

this has been going on since l got the car. l had a 1994 volvo 850 and it knocked like that and stops after it warms up.the dealer said its not a problem and l believed him cuz l knew how these 850 engines make noise.but l came on this site to see if l could fine solutions at fixing that noise.

 

mattyxxl, do you have any link that has instructions on how to change the lifter.if it wont hurt the engine then theres no need to change it.will that noise hurt the engine?thanks.

 

The owners manual says that it's ok for the lifters to make a little noise, for short periods of time but it's not normal to make noise all the time. I'm not saying that the dealer that sold you the car was trying to put one over on you but I only had lifter noise once or twice for less than 10 minutes. It was after letting the car sit for weeks.

You're doing the right thing by having it addressed before something breaks and leaves you stranded. I would recommend that you get a magnetic oil plug as well, to see if you can catch metal shavings in your oil before your oil filter grabs them.

No dealer wants to be know for selling people cars that break down or need major motor work. He may have thought it would clear up pretty quick but it simply hasn't. He's not going to tell you he messed up so you can ask him to shell out $1,200 to have the head rebuilt. As you said, it was like that when you purchased it. If I were a dealer and had a car knocking or making rough engine noises I would try to get it to stop before someone looked at it. I usually use problems that a car has to get a better deal like I did on this wagon I have. It had a bad transmission when I purchased it. It drove but I knew the transmission would have to be replaced sooner or later.

Is the car worth putting $$$ into it to get it right??? As Matt said, that's your call, I would think so, especially with those low miles and if it's pretty clean. Replacing the car would likely cost more. These cars and any car over 10 years old are for the handy. If you're handy you can usually work it out. If you have to pay shop fees every time something skips a beat you need a newer car.

 

no man l do my own thing cuz l am handy.l have my own tools. l will be able to fix this noise if l get instructions on how to do it. so do you think l should send it back to the dealer and let him take a look at it? because l got it this year. the dealer himself is a mechanic and l dont know why he would sell a car that knocks like that. too bad l didnt test drive the car before getting it. l realized the noise after l got home because it does that after it warms up.l took it back to him and he said its not a problem and l believed him because l nkow 850s has this problem

 

man, am going to get a compression tester and do a test and get back to you. thanks

 

ok guys l did a compression test and the results where c#1- 180 C#2 178 C#3 175 C#4 160 C#5 160. is it good?

 

4 & 5 look low compared to the other numbers but they are still in range.
but the difference between 1 and 5 is dramatic..

BTW... where are you located?

 

so that means the engine is in good condition for a turbo car right?so next thing is to use the ATF right?

 

If I had a sticky lifter(and I did) and my options were to pull the valve cover and replace lifters or put a quart of ATF in the oil and see if it frees up the valve train...I dont think I would have to think to much about that. In fact, done.

 

The numbers are good. Between the range and 15% swag from 1 - 5 (20 when the limit is 24). So, you don't have a motor that is worn out, you have a problem with something being stuck or broken, like a lifter spring.

You can try the ATF to see if that will free up your stuck part, however, I would make sure you don't have any seafoam left in it and don't overfill it with the ATF. So, I would change the oil, adding 4 quarts of oil and 1-1/2 quarts of the ATF. I believe that's how they do it. I never have so don't take my word as Gospel.

I'm not even sure how long you should leave the stuff in there. Thirty minutes of idleing? Fifty miles of driving? 1,000 Miles of driving? I have no idea. Maybe BoxPin or someone can chime in.

If that doesn't free it up, you will need to pull the head and fix what ever is stuck, worn or broken. You may be able to do it without disturbing the head gasket, just the timing belt stuff. I don't think you can replace any of that stuff without pulling the timing belt.

That's another can of worms. If you don't know the history of the timing belt, I would probably replace the idler roller and tensioner roller when I pull it, since the car is 16 years old. Then you have to decide if you will go the extra mile and pull the head to do a head gasket replacement since the car is 16 years old. The miles are pretty low and to be honest with you, I didn't expect you to have a worn motor, just something stuck. But, how long with the motor last before it needs a head gasket? I have no idea. Is it possible for a car to go 20, 30 years without needing a head gasket???

 

am located in new york.long island

 

There, BoxPin added info while I was typing. Go with the ATF. Again, not sure how it applies but try that first.

 

thanks man for your help.l just changed my oil but l will do the ATF and see what happens.l appreciate your help.

 

Just wait till the motor is cold and drain a little, measure it off and add a quart or so of tranny fluid. You can always drain the oil into a clean container and put it back in the motor.

 

you are right man. but l have to get a new filter right? l will get a new container and drain it.thanks for the tip

 

I just went back to Matt's site and read the post there. JBlackBurn said to drian all the oil and fill the motor up with 5.5 quarts of ATF. Start the car and let it idle for 20 to 30 minutes. DO NOT REV THE MOTOR. Turn the car off and drain the ATF. Put your 5.5 quarts of oil and a new filter in. (If your oil looks clean and has less than 1,000 miles on it, I think you can reuse it if you NEED TO).

After you do this I would suggest you do another oil change at 1,000 miles. I always use FULL SYNTHETIC oil, it's just better.

 

@ boxpin. man your car is really fast. did you tune it or its stock.wow. l bet it is faster than my 850 R.nicee

 

All of BoxPin's tunes are under his pic and above his YouTube links. I'm one of his HATERS (confused admirers)