l dont get it.on the high way driving it gets very quiet but as soon as l start driving round town with stop and go it ticks real hard.does that has to do with the oil pump not pumping enough pressure on a stop and on highway it just flows without dropping pressure.this is strange

 

highway ,,,,,, higher rpm, higher oil pressure, higher volume, lower nose.

 

Go with mobil1 fully synthetic 15w-50 and an oem Volvo oil filter.

Higher weight ONLY if you live in warmer climate.

She's prolly telling you she wants to stretch her legs...(pun intended)

 

so could it be that the oil pressure is low on city driving?l will see to driving it on the highway for two weeks and see what happens.if that doesnt help l will take an oil pressure test.

 

l am doing that on my next oil change.just changed my oil. could a new lifter be defective?

 

Definitely ...... worst thing is to have a bad new part. Doesn't happen very often but you end up searching everything else BUT the part you replaced when the part you replaced is as bad as the one it replaced !!!

Always recheck everything when you replace a part that you thought was bad.

 

Thicker oil only until fall when the temp drops.

 

Yesterday I pulled the oil pan, thinking the noise was caused by leaky O-ring seals. It turns out that one of my pistons has partially shredded! My buddy and I started to rip the head off and removed the piston; took a few hours to get at it. Unfortunately, we had to undo everything we did for the Valve stem seals & lifters to get at it. What's worse is that we snapped a head bolt in the process I haven't even begun to worry about that yet.

 

awww man, am soo sorry this happened to you. l know you can get it fixed but the only problem is time l guess.it is really time consuming. l might see on IPD and see if l can get one or two lifters and replace the lifters making the noise from the back.if it does knock again then there is another problem l will have to look at.but before getting the lifters l will do an oil pressure test first.am sorry this happened to you. do you know where you can get a new piston.l bet its hard to find or IPD has them?

 

Looking into the pistons now. Volvo has a piston kit for $120 but we're not sure if it contains all 5 or if VADIS indicates we need to order 5 kits to do the job.

If you have the time, remove the cam cover and check each lifter by pushing down on them with your thumb before ordering replacements. They should be rock solid. if any of them bounce, it's toast. I had 6 out of 20 lifters that were shot. IIRC, they cost 16 bucks a piece, or $170 for a full set of 20 from FCP, so it was a no-brainer to replace all of them. Plus, I've read that it may be necessary to reinsert each lifter where it came from, and that seems like a mess waiting to happen so it was another good reason in my mind to replace them all.

 

is it a good thing to rearrange the lifters?example replace the rear lifters with the front lifters and the front lifters with the rear lifters.if the noise still comes from where its coming from then theres should be something else going on that needs to be looked at.would it cause problems doing that?

 

also can a bad Valve Stem Oil Seal cause a lifter to tick?l might look into replacing those too if its bad.l am not burning oil nor do l have blue smoke coming from the exhaust.

 

Yikes!!! I pulled all of my lifters and tossed them in a bag, then tossed them in an oil container and mixed them up some more, then installed them in the head without regard of which slot they came out of on the head. When all was said and done, I had a few of them tick for a little while, like 10 minutes, untill I took my first short highway trip. A 3 minute highway trip for 3.5 miles solved my ticking problem.

I guess I don't think the order of placement matters.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by slimflex2

is it a good thing to rearrange the lifters? example replace the rear lifters with the front lifters and the front lifters with the rear lifters. if the noise still comes from where its coming from then theres should be something else going on that needs to be looked at. would it cause problems doing that?

With the hassle of getting to the lifters, I’d avoid doing the job more than once, so I’d just replace them and be done with it. Remember, you have to clean the cover after you open it (took me over three hours to scrape & scrub it clean) and seal the cover with gasket when you put it back together – not to mention all the time to take everything off the engine (timing belt, distributor, airbox, cam sensor, realign the cams etc), then reassemble to give it a test. Not something I want to do more than once if not necessary.

Quote:

Originally Posted by slimflex2

also can a bad Valve Stem Oil Seal cause a lifter to tick? l might look into replacing those too if its bad. l am not burning oil nor do l have blue smoke coming from the exhaust.

Sorry if I confused two separate projects, but I did them both at the same time.

The seals are to stop white smoke coming from the exhaust when sitting at idle for a minute or two. After all my miles, they were toast and burning enough oil to make me embarrassed at a stop light. Since one must remove the lifters to get to the seals, I did both at the same time. Well, to be specific; I pulled the cam to check the lifters, saw they were toast, realized I was 9/10's of the way to the seals and pulled the trigger on that project as well. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, you may want to do it since you'll be right there - just pick up a pair of

valve stem seal pliers

valve stem seal pliers

and a http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-bmw-saab-engine-valve-stem-oil-seal-3517893. The hard part is cracking open the engine to get at them, the easy part is replacing them. Well, you need to remove the springs so you'll need a

special tool

special tool

(the one to borrow from AutoZone will not work!) but if you want, you can borrow mine. I bought it from Amazon for $119 and I'd be happy to loan it to anyone.

It's my understanding that noisy lifters only occur when they die, the reason being that they don't spring back up to keep constant contact with the cam, so when the cam spins around they'll tick against each other. Not sure how much force is necessary for the cam to compress a lifter, but it's more than you can apply when pushing on it with your thumb as hard as you can.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rspi

I guess I don't think the order of placement matters.

It may not matter at all, it’s just something I read in a thread somewhere while doing research. Don’t mean to scare you like that!

 

l will redo it when l have a free time doing nothing.doing it a second will be easier and faster because its not new to me no more.l know what to look for.l will rearrange the lifters and see what happens.who knows l might not have pressed it hard enough or fcp sent me a defective lifter.but first l will look into getting a pressure test done on the oil pump to make sure it is giving the right pressure.it was very quiet for like a week and after changing my oil it started ticking again.strange

 

Looks like the price is for one piston and does not include the rings, which is another 50-ish bucks.

 

120 bucks for one piston?l mean volvo make good pistons that last.for that price l think its fair.or what do yall think

 

man did you replace all of your lifters when you had a lifter tick?just curious

 

Yes, I had a total of 6 dead lifters - and no idea when the others would start to go, plus since each costs $16 bucks and a full set is $170 at FCP, it only made sense to replace them all.

 

so after you replaced them you still had a tick right or it completely stopped? did you have a ticking lifter because of the broken piston?