Hello to all Lovers Of The Brick,

This Is The Problem:

Ive asked about this before here and there but now Ive had enough and just dont understand.

The Anvil has a severe pull to the right when braking and I cannot seem to figure out why.

What Ive done:

I have replaced the calipers, flex linespads and rotors. I have replaced all of the fluid and had the whole system bled.

Yet I still have a severe pull to the right under light orheavy braking and I need to solve this current issue.

I have checked the ABS sensors, not related - at least I dont think - but another issue to resolve, and they both work - metered them -but I have both the ABS and TRACS lights on.

I disconnected the connector to the ABS module and went for a drive. Only the ABS light was on, no TRACS light???, thinking that maybe there is some connection, but to no avail.

The entire front end of The Anvil is new, from struts and everything needed for a proper job, drive shafts, sway bar links, calipers, flex lines,pads and rotors. What the hell else is there?!?!?[](Didnt want to use the word Hell, but you know what I really meant)

I really need a hand here and Im willing to try whatever it takes to make this right.

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Did you get an alignment recently?

 

When i first had mine it had a bit of awander to the right. New front tyres (Khumo ones so not top end money) put it straight.

 

Quick Brick
S70Driver has it right. Doesn't sound like you got an alignment. Also The Edge is also onto something. On my Audi, when the tires wear down, I would get pulls like this.

Also, just to note, a loose wheel bearing nut, slop in your steering, things like these will also cause a car to pull under braking. What is happening is under load there is pressure on the front wheel. It will have a tendancy to rotateand point the tire in a different direction than straight ahead. Typically something is loose and under braking causes the wheel to pick up this slack. Amazing as it is, tires themselves can be a problem, especially one out of round.

I have experienced this when I raced my Trans Am Corvette. Race tires are not always perfect. This was a constant issue with my friends BP Corvette we raced. Under heavy braking we sometimes never new what direction the car was going to point itself. We did Autox or Solo II.

Anyway, check these items and have a tire store ckeck the trueness of the tire.

Ray

 

Oh and the ABS/TRACS light is almost certainly the controller unit. As you may already know it's a really common issue. I've just had mine done cost me £90.

 

Hi Quick buddy,

99% of my money is into the ABS module. what is happening is that one of your front wheel brake solenoid is stuck open or is not allowing the pressureto be built. Wonder if somehere can chime more on this but I once did this on my Honda odyssey with same symptom:

1- Connected both the front side brake fluidics together on one outlet using a TEE and some cheap hardware. Also plugged the second out let (from where the other outlet was disconnected) with a blank plug. The result was no pulling on anyside but needed more pressure to get braking.

This ruled out any problem on the tubing and wheel side. Eventually I swapped the ABS unit with a used one from wrecker and had a nice straight drive ever after....

Good luck

 

I'd be going with bestharry's idea of a jammed soliniod in the abs system.
I'd be doing the controller resolder.

 

Does the steering rack feel sloppy at all when driving?
Do you feel a pulse in the brake pedal when you brake? (Like pump motor running?)

Did you recheck all front end parts lately?

 

Imgoing to make an appointment for an alignment.Im also going to rotate the tires in the morning and see if this helps. Ive got normal wear currently and I havent done this since last Feb. but should have and thats my own fault.

For the ABS issue, Im thinking that it may just be time for the unit to be serviced and Ive seen a number of places that offer to redo them and just need a recommendation or two and Ill have it out and off for repair.

Living in Canada it can be hard ordering parts, once things are normal with The Anvil,as some of the places dont ship here and some that do Im finding duty and brokerage fees to be almost silly. There are anumber of things that I want/need and Im trying to find the best place without goung broke

Thanks for theinput and Ill let you know the outcome.


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FWIW I think you are on the right path.....do the alignment, swap the tires, and get the ABS unit fixed. I bet one will fix the problem.. If not, let us know.

 

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Ill Be Back [sm=shades.gif]

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I had a similar problem with my 95 850 wagon. The problem was a control arm bushing - replaced the control arm and all is fine. I think I"m getting a little slop in the steering box now though.

 

Hey BriGuy,

My problem seems the right front brake is grabbing more than the left side.

The rotors, that were just removed, had glazing on the outside left of the drivers siderotor where as the inside of the same rotor had a smooth and clean surface. This is one of the reasons that I changed the caliper and changed the flex lines. I thought that the caliper wasnt closing/clamping properly. This did not, however, fix the problem.

I will have the entire front end gone over again early this coming week. Gotta get this fixed before snow starts flying.

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I have seen a few ABS setups cause the same problem.(Sorry it just hit me.)
One way we figured it out was trying to bleed it and there wasn't much fluid coming out.

 

I am pretty sure that your problem is in the alignment/suspension. The things most likely to cause this suspension wise are the lower control arm bushings. In addition the engine cradle/subframe mounts could also allow the front end to move under braking. Also, check the rear alignment. YES our cars ACTUALLY DO have a rear thrust alignment.

Also, check the outer and inner tie rod ends.

Tie Rod ends:
Jack up the front of the car. Wiggle each tie side to side (hands at 9:00 and 3:00( if there is ANY wiggle then there is something wrong.

Lower Control arm bushings:
These are a little harder to check. First I would make sure that he bolts are tight. Then using the same hand postion try to move the tire forward and backward really hard. Look at the bushing area and see if there is any play. You should not be able to see and movement there.
See attached drawing. The subframe in red and control arms in blue. If the control arm bushings are loose or shot then the wheel can toe out under braking and steer in that direction

Subframe bushings:
You need to check ONE @ a TIME. Remove the bolt and pry the subframe down a little and look at the condition of the bushing then re tighten.



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