Just a few things going on with the Vo.
Hi All,
I apologize to you all for the lengthy post, as stated it's just a few things goin on with the Vo, which by the way is a 1994 volvo 850 T5.
So recently I decided to nut up and and replace the pcv, upgraded knock sensors, rear oxygen sensor, clean TB and replace gasket. So I got to the pcv and knock sensors and TB which was a daunting task at first but gradually got better having no previous mechanical xp on volvos, cool beans. there is a small vac hose in the pcv kit which I have no idea where it went to, could not for the life of me see where it was supposed to connect so I did not connect it. Any clues where it goes? Before I was getting front and rear knock sensor signal faulty so thats why I upgraded, the codes are now back. I did not change the male plugs because they looked absolutely fine apart from a bit of dust. Did I do something wrong or could the wiring be dodgy.
A few days ago the rec and ac lights started flashing and the fan does not work, sometimes it will, I think after restarting the car, I've not actually tested this. Today I was driving on the highway with CC set to 110km/h, there was a nice long stretch of road with no-one around so I thought I'd put the foot down. It pulled quite nicely despite a suspected vac leak somewhere causing the boost to pulsate, I guess you could say, and unexpectedly the hazard lights came on when I hit about 140 to 150km/h. Does the Vo think I'm that dangerous that it needs to warn everyone of my urge to go fast? Or could it be something related to codes or a wiring problem?
I'll cut the paragraphs short and go to the codes, my ramblings could go on for pages and pages.
A2
212- signal missing / faulty from oxygen sensor
143- knock sensor signal missing or defective
433- no rear knock sensor signal
411- throttle switch signal faulty or missing
245- idle air control valve-closing signal
223- idle valve signal
A3
141-?
142-?
A7
111- A-okay
B1
417- passenger side interior inlet fan seized
418- no control signal to blower fan power stage
419- faulty diagnostic signal from blower fan power stage
B2
122- air temp sensor signal
B5
111- A-okay
B7 was not responsive
I'm not all to clear on what everything means but I will just assume the worst. Again I apologize for such a lengthy post. I've searched and searched on forums and the interwebs until my eyes discharged salty liquids they were that sore. With the wealth of knowledge in the Volvo community I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction and get the Vo back to it's sexy former glory.
Much appreciated.
-Winston901
I apologize to you all for the lengthy post, as stated it's just a few things goin on with the Vo, which by the way is a 1994 volvo 850 T5.
So recently I decided to nut up and and replace the pcv, upgraded knock sensors, rear oxygen sensor, clean TB and replace gasket. So I got to the pcv and knock sensors and TB which was a daunting task at first but gradually got better having no previous mechanical xp on volvos, cool beans. there is a small vac hose in the pcv kit which I have no idea where it went to, could not for the life of me see where it was supposed to connect so I did not connect it. Any clues where it goes? Before I was getting front and rear knock sensor signal faulty so thats why I upgraded, the codes are now back. I did not change the male plugs because they looked absolutely fine apart from a bit of dust. Did I do something wrong or could the wiring be dodgy.
A few days ago the rec and ac lights started flashing and the fan does not work, sometimes it will, I think after restarting the car, I've not actually tested this. Today I was driving on the highway with CC set to 110km/h, there was a nice long stretch of road with no-one around so I thought I'd put the foot down. It pulled quite nicely despite a suspected vac leak somewhere causing the boost to pulsate, I guess you could say, and unexpectedly the hazard lights came on when I hit about 140 to 150km/h. Does the Vo think I'm that dangerous that it needs to warn everyone of my urge to go fast? Or could it be something related to codes or a wiring problem?
I'll cut the paragraphs short and go to the codes, my ramblings could go on for pages and pages.
A2
212- signal missing / faulty from oxygen sensor
143- knock sensor signal missing or defective
433- no rear knock sensor signal
411- throttle switch signal faulty or missing
245- idle air control valve-closing signal
223- idle valve signal
A3
141-?
142-?
A7
111- A-okay
B1
417- passenger side interior inlet fan seized
418- no control signal to blower fan power stage
419- faulty diagnostic signal from blower fan power stage
B2
122- air temp sensor signal
B5
111- A-okay
B7 was not responsive
I'm not all to clear on what everything means but I will just assume the worst. Again I apologize for such a lengthy post. I've searched and searched on forums and the interwebs until my eyes discharged salty liquids they were that sore. With the wealth of knowledge in the Volvo community I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction and get the Vo back to it's sexy former glory.
Much appreciated.
-Winston901
Not that I could see, I did the pcv a couple of weeks ago. I'd say the codes come back after driving it a while, less than a day for sure. It runs fine apart from a vac leak which I can't find and running a tad rich due to old o2 sensors. I'm yet to change the dizzy cap, rotor and timing belt. Not game to do anything regarding engine timing. Once that's done it should run smooth. It idles at 850 to 900 rpm, so that's why I don't thing the icv is bad. Is it possible that the tips code could prompt the idle valve signal codes?
Thanks tech.
Thanks tech.
That's a lot of codes. How long have you owned the car? How many KM's on it?
I would try to reset the ECU computer. I would disconnect the battery, remove the computer and reinstall it. Maybe it has a bad contact or two in there. Then reconnect the battery, clear the codes and see what comes back.
As for your PCV vac leak, what instructions did you use?
If you did the PCV, the timing belt is about the same tech level is you ask me. No big deal for first timers. However, if you don't do it soon, and it's overdue it change schedule, you may not have the motor long enough for it to matter. I'm about 2,000 miles over due and plan to due mine within a month (I'll put about 2,000 on it this week). So mine will be done next week. I believe I've done 3 or 4 of them so far (not on this car).
The hazards should not come on at any speed.
If you can, post a few pics of your PCV system and that mystery hose.
I would try to reset the ECU computer. I would disconnect the battery, remove the computer and reinstall it. Maybe it has a bad contact or two in there. Then reconnect the battery, clear the codes and see what comes back.
As for your PCV vac leak, what instructions did you use?
If you did the PCV, the timing belt is about the same tech level is you ask me. No big deal for first timers. However, if you don't do it soon, and it's overdue it change schedule, you may not have the motor long enough for it to matter. I'm about 2,000 miles over due and plan to due mine within a month (I'll put about 2,000 on it this week). So mine will be done next week. I believe I've done 3 or 4 of them so far (not on this car).
The hazards should not come on at any speed.
If you can, post a few pics of your PCV system and that mystery hose.
Last edited by rspi; Apr 1, 2012 at 08:08 PM. Reason: add
I've only had the car since early mid October last year, when I bought it it had 214000 km, since then I've only put 4000km on it, I've done 2 oil changes and 2 transmission flushes and a radiator flush.
The first time I cleared the codes I did it manually and it took nearly 1.5 hrs, the ECU was consumed by codes, half of which I've not seen again. The last time I cleared the codes I disconnected the battery for half an hour, but I didn't take the ECU out. I will try that when I change the rear oxygen sensor.
The sticker on the ECU box tells me the timing belt was changed in 2004 but the paperwork I have said that when It was changed around 158000 km, so it is hadn't quite reached the recommended 64000 km change but it's something I should of done when I bought the car regardless or when It was done.
Maybe there is something bazaar going on with the hazard wiring, I still fail to see the correlation between me accelerating and the hazards coming on by themselves.
The PCV instructions I used were PCV Replacement. I purchased the FCP Groton PCV kit. Here is why I am confused, I should of said this before but I completely forgot till now. When I got the intake manifold off there was only the big pcv hose, no small vac type line to be seen So I figured I won the prize and got some vac line. I did see it in the pictures in the link above but I disregarded it because I did not see it on the original. I'll see what I can do about getting pics.
Thanks rspi.
The first time I cleared the codes I did it manually and it took nearly 1.5 hrs, the ECU was consumed by codes, half of which I've not seen again. The last time I cleared the codes I disconnected the battery for half an hour, but I didn't take the ECU out. I will try that when I change the rear oxygen sensor.
The sticker on the ECU box tells me the timing belt was changed in 2004 but the paperwork I have said that when It was changed around 158000 km, so it is hadn't quite reached the recommended 64000 km change but it's something I should of done when I bought the car regardless or when It was done.
Maybe there is something bazaar going on with the hazard wiring, I still fail to see the correlation between me accelerating and the hazards coming on by themselves.
The PCV instructions I used were PCV Replacement. I purchased the FCP Groton PCV kit. Here is why I am confused, I should of said this before but I completely forgot till now. When I got the intake manifold off there was only the big pcv hose, no small vac type line to be seen So I figured I won the prize and got some vac line. I did see it in the pictures in the link above but I disregarded it because I did not see it on the original. I'll see what I can do about getting pics.
Thanks rspi.
I tried to upload pics but I kept getting fail upload messages. I see now that the hose should be connected to the PTC valve. I did spend time looking for the vacuume nipple when I installed the pcv kit but could not see it. I read somewhere that the early model 850s didn't have this, but maybe I am wrong and made it up. There is a vacuume line attached to the PTC and runs a short distance to a steel vacuume rail on the head. Is this not right?
Thanks rspi.
Thanks rspi.
with as many signal missing or faulty signal codes you are getting to me I am looking to the battery for replacement. before hooking new battery up, do a hard battery reset, and should solve a lot of the problems.
having just that one vac hose off will throw a bunch of codes.
having just that one vac hose off will throw a bunch of codes.
I'll definitely consider replacing the battery. I've not done it because the light on the battery has always been green and at full charge but then again I'm throwing my trust in a single light. I'll have to have a good long day of changing vac hoses and putting them where they should go.
Thanks Lifesgoodhere.
Thanks Lifesgoodhere.
If you are talking about the "green eye" on the battery, they are junk. Have a shop test the battery for a true reading of it's health. I've seen plenty of the AC Delco batteries with the green eye fail electrical load testing when the eye was still green. That "eye" is a guide, not a guarantee. Auto parts stores can do a load test in or out of the vehicle and it's free and much more accurate. That way you eliminate the battery as a possible cause or confirm it needs to be replaced.
Peace of mind and less testing, life is good
Peace of mind and less testing, life is good
I'll get the battery looked at next week. It amazes me that something like that can be the cause of such problems, it's the last thing I would of thought of to be quite honest, I guess I'm bit of a sucker haha.
Batteries can be the root of all evil. I work for the RAA (SA's equivalent of the RACV) and members ring with bizarre symptoms on their car, and the battery can be the cause of a great deal of them.
Brick850 You must love getting called all hours of the the day, I did work experience with the NRMA in NSW and the guy I was working with told me a lot of people like to see how far they can get without filling up, or put oil in the car. I know the last one to be true, my gf's subaru dies a few weeks ago when we went for a drive to Ballarat. She had not put oil in the car for over a year. As we were driving along I hear this really loud noise and knew what had happened. Bent or snapped rods, she wanted to call racv to come fix it HAHA. I told her we should have gone in the Volvo
Oh yeah, we get some strange calls.....one that sticks in mind is a lady who rang to say she had been filling up her car with fuel, and instead of putting the nozzle into her fuel filler, had missed the hole and was filling her boot with fuel. She wanted us to come out and siphon it out. LOL
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