Well just picked up the car. It has some interior problems that I need to fix, but while showing off to my friend some problems occured.
1) It died on me. It started back up. It was in "sport" mode which I don't know if that has anything to do with it. May be part of problem #2.
2) After the first problem occured, I drove around cautiously. Then the "Check Engine Light" came on. I went to Autozone to get the free OBDII scan. It came up as misfiring and and P1310 which is Ionization Misfire Detection Module Fault. What exactly do I need to replace with this.
3) It sounds like one of the front brakes is not coming unclammed or that the pad may be worn down.

Any advice on any of these problems would be greatly appreciated.

 

Clear the code(s) and see if they come back.

 

Well it is puttering around now. I can try that though.

EDIT: This couldn't be from using regular octane instead of premium. The dealership filled it up and may have used regular.

EDIT X 2: Based on my searching through older threads, I think I will try to fix the problem by replacing the ignition wires and the spark plugs. And if that doesn't do it, then I will try replacing the other ignition parts. Still open for advice.

 

Look at the plug wire the Year they were made is stamped on them in either white or yellow.

 

Regarding Spark Plugs wires, take ohms reading of old OEM wires and new wires. Readings should be consistant between wires 1 thru 5. Unless you purchased performance wires, readings of new wires should be slightly less than old ones. I prefer OEM spark plug wires.

Regarding Cap and Rotor, it is desirable to have brass/copper contacts. More and more aftermarket vendors are switching to cheap aluminum. I prefer OEM and NAPA/Echlin http://napaechlin.com/. As long as you have brass/copper contacts, you will be fine. If you have aluminum, return and purchase another brand.

I use NGK plugs in all of my Japanese vehicles. With turbo'ed engines, stay away from expensive platinum, iridum, etc. I can easily go 50K miles with regular BPR6ES-11 and BPR7ES-11 plugs. With NGK, 6 is a hotter plug than 7, -11 is pre-gapped at 1.1mm (.043inch).

Plugs for our normally aspirated engines are:
Bosch Copper FR7DC, NGK BKR6ES or BKR6E (V-power), Autolite 3923, and Champion RC9YC.
and our turbo'ed engines are...
Bosch Copper FR7DC (FR6DC might be too cold), NGK BKR7ES or BKR7E (V-power), Autolite 3922, and Champion RC7YC.

and should be gapped at .028 inch.

 

Well I changed the plugs to some Autolites which were switched later that day to NGKs because they fried in the period of one 25min. drive. The problem turned out to be a bad ground which caused the whole system to short. The car appears to be running fine now.

The lettering on the wires is yellow. What does that mean?

 

But what are the #'s?
The last 2 should be the Year the wires were made.

 

It says 96. But the car is running fine now so I think the wires are fine.

 

I would change them they are original.(10 years old)