so, woke up today, noticed my FOB isnt working. no biggy, replaced the battery, still no go.

*grumble*

test fob at autozone, passes test.

noticed that interior and door lights arent coming on, and the keyless warning chime wont shutup, even when the doors are closed.

popped the hood, fuse #15 is blown. attempted to replace fuse, soon as metal contacts, snap! another blown fuse.

scratching my head, i attempted to remove the entire relay. got all of the screws out and was able to lift up the beige part, but couldnt get it all the way out.

since its obvious i have a bad ground somewhere down there, how can i safely remove the entire relay with minimal headache? the odd part is, that fuse is also supposed to be for the radio, but somehow, my radio is still working fine...

thoughts?

 

I had a similar experience — new #15 fuse popping immediately upon insertion, interior lights not working (though the aftermarket radio played on). I installed a new ignition switch (well, a used one from the junk yard, the electronic part on the left side of the steering wheel) and that solved the problem.

 

its bloody annoying to say the least. i managed to get the fuse box out, checked for corroded wiring, didnt find any. on my 83 glt wagon, i remember my windshield wiper fuse would blow as soon as i turned the wiper on. that problem was a faulty wiper motor.

besides the ignition switch, what else could it be? i do dabble in my own repairs and am willing to take this on if its an easy part to swap out. care to elaborate more?

many thanks!

 

There is a description on how to replace the ignition switch at https://volvoforums.com/forum/showth...replace+remove

Somewhere there is also a very sweet tutorial with pictures, but I couldn't find it here. It's out there somewhere. A word of caution — if you try to jam a torx socket up into the small (T-15 maybe) plastic cowling fittings beneath and closest to the steering wheel, the socket will get stuck in the plastic tunnel and you will spend some very stupid time trying to extract it. Best to start by getting a long screwdriver with a torx drive on the tip. I still had to cut off part of the screwdriver handle to get the head up in there.

Of course I don't really know that the switch is your problem, but it did end my trouble with the #15 fuse.

 

ive got a small and long screwdriver that accepts the torx bits have, so im good there.

ill probably tackle it this coming weekend, i want to fish around and see what else i can test/replace before going to the junkyard.

and great, wife just texted me that the car now wont start ><

-edit-

stupid me. i forgot to tighten the positive battery cable, as i was messing with the relay yesterday and didnt want to short anything out.

 

TTT

research hasnt turned up much, still looking for a source to this issue. anything i can replace? the grounds look good, re tightened the ones i could. didnt see any frayed wires that could cause a short.

 

bumpity bump.

where exactly is the relay for the security system? i googled it, searched here and on a few other volvo sites but my query terms pulled up a ton of non-related articles.. still sifting through them!

i figure the fastest way to test if its a short in the security system or not is to pull the relay and see if the issue persists afterwards.

a detailed diagram that simply explains which wires are the security system's and where they are located would be awesome

 

it could be that one of your power lock motors is going bad and the extra current that it draws is causing the circuit to surpass the amperage rating of the fuse, which will blow it. Id start by checking the resistance on each of the power door lock motors and go from there.

 

first thing i would like to do is check the system thats giving me grief, and that would be the security system. once i've eliminated that, i will explore other areas.

power locks are still working fine. in fact, every system BUT the security system is working.

 

sorry for some reason I read that as your fuse for the power locks was blowing, and thats what the problem was. The security relay is in the fuse box under the hood, but you have to remove the torx bits on the fuse box cover to get to it.

 

hehe no worries! ive been able to remove the top 'layer' of fuses and exposed the second layer before, as i changed out my fuel pump relay and MAF at the same time. which one is the security system relay? i cant seem to find the diagram i had that told me which one is which...

 

I'm the guy who claimed earlier that I was having a similar #15 fuse problem and solved it by changing out the ignition switch. Yeah, that worked for a while. But once again my #15 blows so regularly that I haven't bothered installing a new one. Like you, my aftermarket radio still works. Sorry for any wild goose chase action this might have set off. My thinking now is that there may be some frayed wiring in the clump that goes to the driver's door.

 

strangely enough, a few days after you suggested that my turn signal BROKE! i rigged it by using some gorilla clue and a thick piece of card board... works fine for now but thats just another piece of hardware that needs to be replaced now.

i had to pull my door chime fuse though. after the security system fuse blew, once i started the car the door chime came on and will not go off unless i pull the fuse.

anyone have that diagram i need? need to know which one is the security system relay..