Howdy folks the last time I changed the oil in the wife's '95 850 non-turbo sedan I noticed there was some dampness on the oil pan at the front of the engine. I removed the timing belt cover and everything seemed dry in there so I thought it was no big deal, after all it has 160k on it. This time when changing the oil half of the underside of the car is wet. I haven't removed the timing belt cover at this point because I'm afraid of what I might see, but I realize the front seal is going to have to be replaced very soon. Has anyone else attempted this procedure, after reading in the Chilton manual it doesn't sound too difficult, and I was able to change the timing belt myself. The two main questions I have is-1. exactly what size is the big nut on the crankshaft pulley as I will have to geta socket the right size, when I did the timing belt I couldn't find a socket to fit exactly right nevertheless I was able to rotate the motor.2 what kind of puller is required to remove the timing belt sprocket from the crankshaft like a 3 jawed puller or is there holes in the pulley to thread bolts into for a plate style puller. And yes I'm going tocheck the PVC system maybe even replace the oil catch box under the intake manifold just to make sure the engine isn't building up too much pressure inside. Any help will be appreciated.

 

Hello,

I believe the crank pulley center nut is of 30mm. If you have an impact tool it'll be easy to take it off. Haynes manual calls for Volvo special tool, or fabricate your own for crank pulley removal. If Chilton doesn't specify it, you might want to invest about $15 in a Haynes and compare the procedure. Generally speaking, one generic manual doesn' seem to have thorough instructions so having at least two different information sources helps avoid problems. As for a puller, Haynes shows a two-jaw type puller to pull out the T-belt sprocket.

Also, before starting the procedure, double-check to see if the oil leak is definitely from the crank seal. I would inspect the following as well:

1. Oil filler cap
2. Oil dipstick O-ring
3. Oil cooler lines
4. Oil thermostat housing (to the right of the crank pulley where two aluminum lines are attached)
5. Take the T-belt cover off and check inside
6.Clean the engine bottom with brake cleaner/degreaser and wait till leak reappears.

Good luck,


JPN

 

Thanks for the reply, I didn't realize that there were so many places in that area that could leak oil. I will definitely jack the car up and do some more investigating before I tear into it. I actually do have a Haynes manual as well as the chilton, I will consult it as well.

thanks again

 

Yep, I just had to replace the dipstick o-rings, and it looks like I have a real small drip from the oil cooler fitting in the bottom of the radiator, so theses are definitely things to look for.

Glenn

 

Hello Glenn,

Eachoil cooler line-to-oil coolerfitting has two rubber seals, one is called seal ring and the other is O-ring. The fitting is held by a metal clip, which can easily be removed with a pair of snap-ring pliers. Or you can use whatever works. The seals are cheap and I usually by a few at FCP Groton. The metal clip seems to lose tension overthe years, and the new ones have considerably stronger tension.

Good day,


JPN

 

Thanks JPN.

I'm placing an order to Groton today so I will add the o-rings and clip

Glenn

 

One thing i've noticed a lot of on higher mileage cars is that the upper breather hose for the flame trap will start leaking into the top of the motor (under spark plug cover) when this area strarts to fill it drains down the front of the motor and looks like cam seals. I would check that first. Also, an old oil cap seal will do the same thing. If either of those are the case it may be time to invest in a new oil trap box. When the box gets clogged it causes higher pressures in the crankcase that leads to leaking seals everywhere.
Also, if you are changing the cam seal you'll need to remove the pulleys, if the cams move any degree you won't have an accurate way to know. Volvo makes a tool for locking the camshafts from the back of the motor to ensure that they don't slip since you have positive spring pressure from the valves sitting on the cam lobes.