Looking for upgrades
I have a stock 1995 850 turbo and am looking for some cheap ways to get a bit of more power out of it. Im not looking for any huge gains but i was wondering how much power i could get with a MBC and a chip? And how much more boost can i get with this? Recommendations?
In the long run i might consider changing the exhaust but i dont want it to be loud. Is this unrealistic?
In the long run i might consider changing the exhaust but i dont want it to be loud. Is this unrealistic?
Last edited by Babcotyl; Jul 25, 2014 at 01:46 PM.
Realistically probably about 30 HP. I know a guy that sells chips installed for $295 and you can core yours for $50, so the price would be $245. You will feel nice gain without any other mods. You should also see better gas mileage when you don't have your foot in it. The nice thing about the chips is they improve torque as well.
I think ill be getting that ard tune eventually. Unfortunately it will probably be the beginning of next summer before i can afford it, for now, i bought a MBC. I was wondering how high i should boost without having to worry about too much boost at low rpms. Until i get a good idea im not planning on boosting very much more than stock... From what ive read there is no right answer so im thinking as long as i keep the boost less than ~3-4mm from the end of the boost gauge i should be good. I know i should get a more reliable gauge but i dont like the way they look..
Last edited by Babcotyl; Aug 2, 2014 at 08:08 PM.
Stock gauge is about 15 PSI to the end of the white. Here's a thread showing the various positions:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...e-=-psi-77603/
You might want to confirm you're getting full stock boost and the car is otherwise working properly (aka Stage 0) before starting on mods.
The basic ARD tune for an otherwise stock T5 adds about 4 PSI over stock, or to about 14 PSI or so. Mine almost pegs the gauge at full boost now. I like the ARD tune because they also take care of all the other variables. It's just plug 'n play.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...e-=-psi-77603/
You might want to confirm you're getting full stock boost and the car is otherwise working properly (aka Stage 0) before starting on mods.
The basic ARD tune for an otherwise stock T5 adds about 4 PSI over stock, or to about 14 PSI or so. Mine almost pegs the gauge at full boost now. I like the ARD tune because they also take care of all the other variables. It's just plug 'n play.
Whenever you start talking about raising boost you need to add a boost gauge so you know whats going on. We have seen that the factory boost gauge is VERY inconsistent so do not rely on it. As an example, the top of my white area is 10psi opposed to BFR's 14psi 'pegged'.
The stock ECU will allow boost up to about/around/in the range of/close to 15 psi before it cuts off the fuel system and you fall on your face. Getting an ECU upgrade is essential when you start raising boost because this wall is removed. That being said you can add the MBC and raise the boost a bit but you will hit that fuel cut off eventually.
Turbos need to breath, they dont do well if they cant spool. Getting the exhaust out of the engine quickly is very important. You can get immediate gains by switching to a down pipe and larger exhaust.
The stock ECU will allow boost up to about/around/in the range of/close to 15 psi before it cuts off the fuel system and you fall on your face. Getting an ECU upgrade is essential when you start raising boost because this wall is removed. That being said you can add the MBC and raise the boost a bit but you will hit that fuel cut off eventually.
Turbos need to breath, they dont do well if they cant spool. Getting the exhaust out of the engine quickly is very important. You can get immediate gains by switching to a down pipe and larger exhaust.
Last edited by boxpin; Aug 6, 2014 at 08:16 AM.
Whenever you start talking about raising boost you need to add a boost gauge so you know whats going on. We have seen that the factory boost gauge is VERY inconsistent so do not rely on it. As an example, the top of my white area is 10psi opposed to BFR's 14psi 'pegged'.
The stock ECU will allow boost up to about/around/in the range of/close to 15 psi before it cuts off the fuel system and you fall on your face. Getting an ECU upgrade is essential when you start raising boost because this wall is removed. That being said you can add the MBC and raise the boost a bit but you will hit that fuel cut off eventually.
Turbos need to breath, they dont do well if they cant spool. Getting the exhaust out of the engine quickly is very important. You can get immediate gains by switching to a down pipe and larger exhaust.
The stock ECU will allow boost up to about/around/in the range of/close to 15 psi before it cuts off the fuel system and you fall on your face. Getting an ECU upgrade is essential when you start raising boost because this wall is removed. That being said you can add the MBC and raise the boost a bit but you will hit that fuel cut off eventually.
Turbos need to breath, they dont do well if they cant spool. Getting the exhaust out of the engine quickly is very important. You can get immediate gains by switching to a down pipe and larger exhaust.
I would agree on the aftermarket boost gauge, especially with an MBC. My gauge didn't even work until I fixed the vacuum leak under the battery tray. In any case, the ARD tune is like $240 after core exchange and then less than $100 if you need to have them reprogram it for future mods. Worth it for peace of mind.
On the topic of exhaust, do you have a recommendation/preference for someone who's not going to go all out? IPD and OBX seem to be the most commonly used, with the former being considerably more costly (by over $600) but better made.
Last edited by BFR; Aug 7, 2014 at 01:24 PM.
Yea, with all due respect to my beloved R wagon, spending $995.00 on an IPD exhaust system is too high a % of the car's value for me to justify it, as nice as it is. $375 for the OBX sounds much better to me :-)
Is that a cat I see welded in there? I understand the OBX doesn't come with a cat and you have to source your own. What cat did you use?
The two downpipes are one for angled out turbine housings and one for straight out turbine housings, yes?
Yes, two downpipes and you can sell the one you dont use for around $100 which covers some of the expense.
That cat looking thing is a flex joint.
So my 1995 850 turbo has a conical flange, im assuming. If i were to get the obx turbo back exhaust, would i cut the flange off of the stock downpipe and weld it on the new one?
And also i was wondering if i could get a 3" conical downpipe and install it without changing the rest? Would it be worth it? And would it be a direct fit? Is it hard to install?
Just looking at all the options.
And also i was wondering if i could get a 3" conical downpipe and install it without changing the rest? Would it be worth it? And would it be a direct fit? Is it hard to install?
Just looking at all the options.
You'd be better off ditching the conical flange; find either a straight or angle (best) one from a jy.
And ck out this link if you haven't already.
Modifying Fwd Turbo Volvos (Read, Don't Comment) - Performance Modifications - Volvospeed Forums
And ck out this link if you haven't already.
Modifying Fwd Turbo Volvos (Read, Don't Comment) - Performance Modifications - Volvospeed Forums
I've found a 16t turbo that i am going to buy along with the stock downpipe that is on it (angle flanged). Hopefully i can get it rebuilt and installed by halloween(busy schedule). If anyone has any tips about doing a turbo swap id appreciate it.
I got the turbo (for 70$) but the guy didnt have anything to cut off the downpipe with so i will just have that made at a local shop. Can't wait to get this thing on, maybe i will be able to next weekend, not sure.
Though i haven't gotten the turbo put on yet, i bought a pair of 93 NA cams which will be installed prior to the turbo being installed. Probably will begin the cam swap friday. I have an appointment to get my car aligned thursday, so i don't want to start tearing it apart until after that is done... I haven't had much luck with trying to find guides on how to do a cam swap, so i'm assuming it will take me a while.
I got a boost guage so no more guessibg on the boost! Also, stage 0 is completed! New pcv just installed last week. What a pain that was! EGR sucks!!!!!
Plan for turbo swap is to make a flange for the DP myself then have exhaust shop make me 3" dp to 2.5" pipe until right before stock muffler. But depending on how much it would cost, i might do a full exhaust (though i REALLY don't want this thing loud) ill have a while to think about it though... Can't afford exhaust yet. 2-4 more weeks.
I got a boost guage so no more guessibg on the boost! Also, stage 0 is completed! New pcv just installed last week. What a pain that was! EGR sucks!!!!!
Plan for turbo swap is to make a flange for the DP myself then have exhaust shop make me 3" dp to 2.5" pipe until right before stock muffler. But depending on how much it would cost, i might do a full exhaust (though i REALLY don't want this thing loud) ill have a while to think about it though... Can't afford exhaust yet. 2-4 more weeks.
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