wow, i understood soo little!

I am going threw ipd's utube vids.

I didnt correctly understand the BOV on my volvo. for 1, i thought it was near the throttle body. but its on the turbo itself.

I also didnt understand what the wastegate does. I thought it bleed off excess boost. I didnt get that it bleeds off excess exhaust gas (pressure)

I also saw how to adjust the preload on the wastegate actuator. I still need to figure out what PSI mine is supposed to be at stock (hopefully in the repair manual i bought) and I need a pressure pump.

 

I think IPD also lists that info. (set pressure)
Ed

 

as far as the BOV there isnt one there is a CBV a compressor bypass valve which is located on the turbo

 

Right, I say BOV but the CBV does the same thing just in a different way.

But thats what I learned, that its on the compressor.

I know a fair bit about cars....but not turbo systems.

And what I do know about turbo systems comes from reading car mags of highly tuned/custom turbo enignes. Thus my assumption that my car must have a BOV somewhere near the throttle body. I dont think I have ever seen a highly tuned car with it on the compressor.



Now, am I right in thinking that when the CBV opens....that the wastegate is also open? I figure it must be otherwise how would I be able to hear the CBV open (whoosh sound)

My car feels slugish on the bottem end, so Im hoping I will find the wastegate arm needs some adjustment.

I have a boost gauge installed, and it builds to 7psi...then the needle wiggles a tad and when the car shifts (or I let off the throttle) the needle jumps to 10 then back down. This could be the true boost....or could be the cheap gauge or the fact that I had to make and adapter to put it into the stock boost gauge's vaccume line. The boost gauge i bought has a frickin tiny vacume line!
I will probly buy a better gauge down the road eitherway.

 

New to the forum.
I can't figure out how to start a new thread.
Can you advise.
Thanks

 

That statement is the begining of wisdom. One of my goals in life is to learn something new every day.

 

Plus ONE

 

I went to VIP today to buy a vacuum pump/gauge so I could test the wastegate actuator setting.
But sadly, they didnt have one
I was able to figure out with ipd's site and my vin # which motor I have and what PSI the actuator is supposed to start opening the wastegate at.
I have a feeling it may be opening it too soon. At least, im hoping that. If thats the case then adjusting the actuator rod should help the car build boost sooner and quicker.

 

Just becareful to not build it too soon or you will have internal engine issues... From what I've read and been told, as long as your boost gauge does not go over 0 until atleast 2500rpm and shouldn't build more than 5psi by 3000rpm. It will be fine. You can work a little under those settings but beware you're in dagerous territory. Your car should be around 8.6psi of boost I beleive. Waste gate set around 3.5psi but 4psi would be a good setting without causing issues. There are things you may need to check before you can build full boost. Mine was only building 6psi of boost when I bought it, torn CBV diaphragm. Replace that and 10.4psi was good. But do some reading before changing anything make sure anything you do will not kill your car. I did alot of reading before adjusting anything on mine there is alot of info on the forums go into the search bar on the forum and tyoe in what you are looking for. Google will not always bring up everthing on the forums. Good luck and hope you have fun.

 

according to ipd's table my engine is supposed to open wastegate at 1.8 psi.
I have already done plugs/wires/cap/rotor as well as an oil change. trans fluid change yet to come.
I also just added Z max engine and fuel additive. I have a feeling the previous owners drove the car VERY slowly. Otherwise they would have noticed the misfire issue that came anytime the car built boost (when I first got it) So anything that can clean the injectors ect cant hurt.
I also read on ipd's site an easy way to test the o2 sensor. I dont have a DTC code showing, but my OBD II reader does show something about the o2 sensor so I think ill do the test when I get a chance. If the pre-cat sensor proves bad then Ill want to replace it (ouch $90 for an OEM) in order to get best preformance and fuel milage.
I put in an offer on a "R" ecu on ebay. Fingers crossed.

 

What's your vac at idle when the car is warm? Should be ~19 hg/in, if not, you have a leak somewhere.

Honestly, if your car is feeling sluggish, when was the last time it's received a full stage 0? I wouldn't go and start adjusting the wastegate arm as a means to turn up the boost the make the car feel faster, because if you have a leak somewhere, old plugs, old wires, brittle vac lines, then all your doing is putting on a band aid that will only lead to a greater failure.

 

I have done the plugs/wires/cap/rotor.
my boost gauge does read 19 vac at idle.
I dont have any DTC codes either, tho the service engine light does come on (and goes off a minute later) I figure thats a oil change reminder or something like that.
The car does start to build boost at 2500rpms...but it seems slow to increase the boost.
Im not going to adjust the actuator rod unless it is out of spec. I just want to make sure that it is opening the wastegate when it should...and not before.

 

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...-models-36251/

If you want a R ECU, send me a pm and let me know what you are willing to pay for one.

 

will that work on my car? Its a '95 but it has OBD II port inside the car.