Hi all- 95 850 GLT. I need to put a splice pipe on a straight section of my exhaust- between the cat and the muffler. 1 3/4 pipe (OD), I've got a 1 3/4" ID splice. I figure to get the muffler clamps to squeeze that splice piece down so it doesn't leak, I need to get it up to the maximum torque- probably with an air wrench not just with my sockets by hand (and clicker torque wrench). What torque would a muffler clamp get tightened to? don't want to break it. Thanks! Dave

 

Dave, I doubt anyone is going to know this. Most muffler clamps are just third party aftermarket components. The instructions are going to be 'As tight as you feel comfortable with'. Other then that you would have to find out what the tinsel strength of the steel and do some heavy calulations. My recommendation is to not fret about this, tighten it up and move on.

 

+1 to what boxpin said.

You have to deform the outside pipe enough so it clamps down and holds the inside pipe. I.e. tighten it until you can't move the two pipes relative to each other, and then go another turn or so on each side.

And if it moves after you drive it a bit, guess what, it wasn't tight enough..

 

Better yet, get a band clamp. They seal themselves and the don't take much torque, unlike u-bolts. I have u-bolts holding my exhaust to my downpipe and it took me two clamps and a breaker bar to get them to hold tight.

 

thanks all- Well right now I've got a nice smooth bit of sheet steel on there (I think it might even be stainless) and hose clamps, but it still is leaking. I think maybe I just cant tighten hose clamps enough to really seal it. The 1 3/4" / 1 3/4" splicer I thought would be the correct way to fix it, and 2 clamps and the splicer was only about 10 bucks. I figured the only way to crush that splicer with the clamps was to spin that nut on the clamp wicked fast- like with an impact driver. Thought just using a wrench would strip it. But I don't have any air tools, just cheater pipes. Dave