Well, it seems like you're asking the same questions that you asked when you started this post. Gilber gave you some info on it.

If you broke that vac tree part, I'd suggest you go to a junk yard or source another one. Be careful with ALL plastic parts on these Volvo's. The plastic they use gets very brittle (maybe they all do) and the stuff crumbles and falls apart in your hands all the time. I keep plastic super glue handy for a lot of stuff. Not sure I'd use it on the vac tree but it does work for a lot of other things (non-air/fluid pressure related parts).

I have heard of people trying to clean the PCV system, I'd just replace it. Hoses are likely brittle and wont seal properly. Also, make sure you clean the EGR ports if you haven't put it all back together yet. My EGR was 85% clogged up and I had to really grind the opening back up. I have a post about my intake ports being really dirty and full of gunk. Some believe that it's a by product of having a clogged PCV and EGR. I even posted a picture of mine.

Did you ever get your true mileage?

 

Yeah I hear you on the broken parts. I will probably try to find the vac block somewhere. It would be hard to plug properly...

I will definitely be cleaning the hell out of the system and especially the PTC. I would really like to see if theres a better solution than the stock system though. After much more reading I think the stock setup supplemented with a catch can is the best way to make things work. This is probably the way I'll go when I source a decent catch can.

As far as the mileage goes the dash is stuck at 0668xx. I don't know why the previous owner said 166xxx, but the dash indicates 66xxx. I'll have to run the mileage check before I get it on the road. It would be incredible if it was 66k instead of 166k+.

Otherwise, it does appear that most of the components have never been changed. The thermostat still has the OEM silver torx bolts with no marks on them. And most of the bolts from the intake area appear never to have been removed (no marks on the bolts themselves). So it certainly could only have 66k on it.

I'll also definitely get on the EGR. I've never been a huge fan of EGRs but I'd rather just fix it than deal with the SES light all the time.

 

Man, there is no way that car has 66k on it. Those odo's usually go between 90k and 110k but the more one uses the trip odo in the cluster the faster they go out. The car has a computerized trip so there is no need to reset the dash one but people do. Resetting that causes faster failure. I had one guy tell me that his odo still worked and had about 325,000 on it. Mine still works and has 196,000 on it. It's about to go though, getting jerky. The yellow sedan I had got gerky at about 85,000 and broke at 102k. Right now my odo is about 2,200 miles off from the computer. The last car I was looking at, trying to purchase had 112k on the dash and 224k in the computer. At 15k per year, 200k is about normal. It would be funny if you're car had more like 300 k on it. LOL

 

Oh, the oil cap has a seal that can be replaced. It's about $5 or less.

 

I dont see why there's no way it has 66k on it. I would imagine it was driven after it broke the gear but why would the previous owner say 166?

Weird.

And I don't think 300k would be too funny, lol. Seriously though the thing is too clean for anything more than 200k. Plus the fact the bolts on most things haven't ever been removed argues more for the fact it has lower mileage.

I'll snap some pictures tonight and keep this thread updated.

 

When we purchased our S70 the odo said 83,500 but it had at least 126,000 on it. Checked the car fax report and it had 121,000 on it the previous year. I believe the guy swapped the cluster out to hide the miles. The car still looks like it has under 100,000 on it.

That's the thing with these cars, they look so good that people can hardly guess their age. They simply do not fall apart, you have to tear them up.

 

The questions about the catch can are the exact same you asked before.

Yes you can eliminate the PTC, you also run the risk of freezing your lines.

Leave th stock flame trap. There is a guy on VS making over 300 awhp that is the king of catch cans and even he says that you cannot just remove the factory flame trap, I don't care what you read on any other site or what anyone says, this guy knows something about catch cans and relieve crank pressure.

I mean, I already answered all of your questions in my original post. Like I said before, all lines have to be larger than the factory ones if you add a can. The can has to be baffled if it's going to do any good. IMO, the ports on the can cannot be any smaller than 5/8".

In all seriousness, if your car is stock, which it is, a catch can is completely pointless. The factory system is sufficient. I think time and money can be better spend elsewhere on the car than adding a catch can system to a stock car.

My friend is still utilizing the factory PCV system on his S70 and he is making over 300 whp.

 

Here is a thread about the catch can growth in my car that might be of some service

Catch Can - Volvospeed Forums

Please ignore all the -1's on my posts...I pissed someone off that day and that's how they decided to get back at me. lol.

And here are a bunch of other threads about catch cans:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...arch_in=forums

But I still feel that there are other places that warrant attention before a catch can is even close to being needed.

edit: Nevermind, I can't link you to a search result page. But go to volvospeed, do a search and type in catch can for the search content, select titles only, and select performance section, you'll get a bunch of threads.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I think I will end up doing a catch can simply because I want to regardless of its necessity.

And I will probably eliminate the PTC.