I redid my oil cooler lines with high-pressure (300 psi) rubber hose, and also put in brass fittings, when I changed my radiator.

My V90 has a sandwich-type cooler, which does not go into the radiator. Is the '99 the similar/same? Whatever happens the oil thermostat should still be used.

Funny, you are talking about the lines behind the block / under the turbo -- I just got back to the City and I think my turbo coolant line got busted. I don't see the source yet; heat-shield is blocking it.

 

I have been tracing a clunk for months. I just found it -- it was the exhaust pipe behind the cat. The real source was the missing donuts at the muffler and tail pipe.

 

Gilber, have you thought of dumping those tail lights and upgrading to the '95 - '97 models?

 

No. 99+ S70s came with the oil cooler as part of the oil pan which uses coolant to cool the oil coming from the hard pipe on the back of the block. You swap the oil pan and hard line on the back of the block, you get rid of the thermostat all together and then the only thing going through the radiator is coolant, no oil.

I've thought about it, but I can usually find something better to spend $100 on.

 

I see it in the diagram ('99 S-70 2.3T), however from the Fit Notes for the pan (Oil Sump), I don't see the 850 listed. I guess you know that it fits though.

I also do see the oil cooler attached to the pan, with 2 coolant lines going in and out of this sealed unit. Theoritically, the issue of oil and coolant mix here does exist too, no?

 

My V90 Big-Mac oil cooler does not have a thermostat. It means that the run is so small that thermostat does nothing. I don't like these half-*** coolers. Volvo should either run it properly as a coil/fin and thermostat it, otherwise just don't add the complexity.

 

The new style oil coolers go bad just as much as the older ones.

 

It's a direct swap. As long as you do the hard pipe too that have the coolant nipples on it for the lines down to the oil cooler. I'm not sure if they can mix there, I'm not entirely sure how the unit cools the oil if it's like a mine tube and fin deal or what.

That little unit on the back of the pan can go bad? How does that oil cooler work? The biggest thing with it is the fact that I wouldn't have the oil cooler lines running up to the front with my already cluster ****ed front.

If you had to recommend one Alan, what would you go for? Just put in a new Nissens radiator, the aftermarket oil cooler, or the 99+ oil pan with the oil cooler? Basically each one will cost the same in the end I think, about $200.

 

The oil just goes in and out of the cooler through the pan. I have had to replace a few of those new style coolers already because they broke internally. To me the stock 850 setup is better overall. I think because of the lines being longer they can help cool the oil better. All the air moving through the engine compartment while the oil is moving through them then it goes to the cooler in the rad.

I would put a new radiator in and go from there.

 

Ok, I want to get a better understanding of the ECU upgrade. I understand that they are suppose to help you get more HP & Torque. Here are my questions:

1. Does the W, S, & E buttons still work on the automatic if you get a tune?

2. Did it effect your gas mileage if you drive it like you use to?

Now, I usually drive my 850 T-5R in the S setting. Usually I drive around like an old lady so I still get 24 mpg around town. I get 25 mpg when in the E setting. I choose S because I want the power there immediately if I need it.

 

Yeah, I decided that I'm just going to put in a new radiator, and skip putting in a new axle and just do the boot, since there's nothing wrong with the axle, it's just leaking grease.

And unfortunately the brakes and what not are going to have to hold off for a few months, I need to save for Carlisle.

I would assume the sport and economy button still worked, I've NEVER heard of anyone saying they didn't work, but I can't confirm, only because my right foot is my S/E button.

I felt that I got a little bit better gas mileage. I was seeing about 25-27 MPG on the way to VA last week, however, that was with some WOT on ramp pulls and what not. Also, I still have the original MAF, which isn't helping.

 

How'd your girl deal with all the WOTing? LOL Must have driven her crazy.

 

lol. It's kind of funny, because she'll be completely normal, talking and what not, and then I accelerate and hit boost and out of the corner of my eye I can see her kind of grab onto the door and like, look down. haha. But I never go WOT, or anything else like that, when it's not safe or would jeopardize her safety. Not saying it's safe to ever do, but I would never do something to put her in direct danger. And I didn't do it very often.

 

Yes the tranny range setting all work normal. I ran a chipped ECU in mine and the wifes with no issues.

 

Just went with a new radiator. That will be going in this weekend, along with CV boots on the driver axle and going to re-do my front sway bar. Going to take off the brackets and bushings and add grease zerks to each one, reinstall fully greased up, but put washers underneath the bracket to loosen up the bushing somewhat. I think my sway bars are on so tight that they are seizing up in the bushings and causing my clunking. Talked to an ex-Porsche race car driver that's in the area that is now into Volvos (lol) and he said this is exactly what it sounds like. So hopefully that fixes the clunking.

Also going to put in the new style dipstick and tube from the S70s that actually seal instead of just sitting in the tube. And new spark plugs. I'm pretty sure mine are pretty worn from running extremely rich the last 10k miles with my current set up and stock tune. And then will turn up the boost some. Still sitting at about 12 PSI. Will probably turn it up to 15 or 16.

 

I have heard that spark plugs wear out fast with a tuned ECU.

 

yeah, you're sort of working them over time. It also doesn't help that I was running all of this stuff for about 10k miles without a tune, so it was always running rich and I think I fouled them. Hopefully it will run a little bit better with new plugs. I want to turn up the boost sooo bad. lol.

 

When you switch to a tuned ECU, will it be better to switch to plugs other than OEM?

 

From what I've read, it's a toss up if an aftermarket plug will out perform OEM ones. Most people I know will run OEM plugs on their Stage 3+ cars because any aftermarket ones will give them misfires.

 

Yep, Just replaced mine. Volvo OEMs lasted 5 months. Started poping at heavy load.