Parts check - headgasket replacement
#1
Parts check - headgasket replacement
So i have finally come to the sad conclusion that my '96 non-turbo 850 has a failing headgasket leaking coolant into the #4 cylinder. Not much, just enough to foul the plug and make it run like crap for 10 seconds when it's been sitting for over 30 minutes or so. I'm losing coolant (no leaks that i can find elsewhere), and there is a deposit up the #4 spark plug tube, so i'm thinking that's the culprit. Exhaust smells of coolant on startup, but i've only gotten white smoke once, unless i confused smoke for steam, entirely possible this time of year.
Anyway, just wanted to make sure I'm ordering all the parts I need for this job.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvoeng850engine.htm
275254 - Head Gasket Set 1993-1997 Non Turbo Models (also order 3 items listed below 1236119, 9463274, and 6842347 x 10) to do the complete job
1236119 - Water Pipe Gasket
9463274 - Thermostat Housing Gasket
6842347 - Cylinder Head Bolt (12 Req)
1161059 - Valve Cover Sealant and Oil Pan gasket sealant
Here is a picture of the 'head gasket set'. It says this is everything I need and it does look complete to me, just thought i'd ask you guys, I'd hate to be reassembling and need something that has to be ordered.
Anyway, just wanted to make sure I'm ordering all the parts I need for this job.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvoeng850engine.htm
275254 - Head Gasket Set 1993-1997 Non Turbo Models (also order 3 items listed below 1236119, 9463274, and 6842347 x 10) to do the complete job
1236119 - Water Pipe Gasket
9463274 - Thermostat Housing Gasket
6842347 - Cylinder Head Bolt (12 Req)
1161059 - Valve Cover Sealant and Oil Pan gasket sealant
Here is a picture of the 'head gasket set'. It says this is everything I need and it does look complete to me, just thought i'd ask you guys, I'd hate to be reassembling and need something that has to be ordered.
#3
RE: Parts check - headgasket replacement
It's finally back together and runs like a top. I went ahead and got a valve job while i was at it - i'd sure hate to have a valve stem seal go bad in 10K and wish i had done it.
Anyway, the gasket set is a pretty awesome deal. Not pictured, but it also came with the oil pump gaskets.
Anyway, the gasket set is a pretty awesome deal. Not pictured, but it also came with the oil pump gaskets.
#6
RE: Parts check - headgasket replacement
It wasn't that hard, and I hardly have a mechanic's tool set. If nothing else, make sure you have socket adapters (3/8 to 1/4, etc) because there are a LOT of nooks you have to reach for bolts that can be pretty tight, sometimes the next size socket with an adapter gives the perfect reach.
I really don't know how long total, I worked on it when I got home from work, and some on the weekends. I think I started on it two weeks ago but like I said I did it in spare time.
some notes:
a. I didn't take out the exhaust mani. I just unbolted it and pushed it back, the vibration damper gives enough play to keep it out of the way.
b. make sure you torque up the water pipe/thermostat BEFORE you re-install the head. the accessory bracket does a great job of getting in the way.
c. don't drop a fuel rail bolt behind the intake manifold when you're putting it back on.
d. the PCV system was almost certainly designed by Satan.
e. Have a system to keep track of where bolts/nuts come from. I used labeled quart ziplocks.
f. It will be helpful to have a hand when setting the head (upper and lower sections) in place. It's far from impossible by yourself (cause i did it) but it's kind of a reach and you want to set them on straight.
I really don't know how long total, I worked on it when I got home from work, and some on the weekends. I think I started on it two weeks ago but like I said I did it in spare time.
some notes:
a. I didn't take out the exhaust mani. I just unbolted it and pushed it back, the vibration damper gives enough play to keep it out of the way.
b. make sure you torque up the water pipe/thermostat BEFORE you re-install the head. the accessory bracket does a great job of getting in the way.
c. don't drop a fuel rail bolt behind the intake manifold when you're putting it back on.
d. the PCV system was almost certainly designed by Satan.
e. Have a system to keep track of where bolts/nuts come from. I used labeled quart ziplocks.
f. It will be helpful to have a hand when setting the head (upper and lower sections) in place. It's far from impossible by yourself (cause i did it) but it's kind of a reach and you want to set them on straight.
#7
RE: Parts check - headgasket replacement
>the PCV system was almost certainly designed by Satan.
You have aptly stated the possible evils residing within our vehicles[8D]. And may I add some Torx bolts to the list, especially the one used on the timing belt tensioner pulley?
I would also get a Haynes manual before proceeding on the job.
JPN
You have aptly stated the possible evils residing within our vehicles[8D]. And may I add some Torx bolts to the list, especially the one used on the timing belt tensioner pulley?
I would also get a Haynes manual before proceeding on the job.
JPN
#8
volvo 850 non turbo head leak
well, just got back from a trip, and noticed milky oil on dipstick, found post for head gasket replacement along with part numbers and fcp groton link, but, the page also had a ad for steelseal, will this product damage the engine anymore than it is now, and how long will it last, now is too cold to be doing a headgasket out in the driveway
#9
It wasn't that hard, and I hardly have a mechanic's tool set. If nothing else, make sure you have socket adapters (3/8 to 1/4, etc) because there are a LOT of nooks you have to reach for bolts that can be pretty tight, sometimes the next size socket with an adapter gives the perfect reach.
I really don't know how long total, I worked on it when I got home from work, and some on the weekends. I think I started on it two weeks ago but like I said I did it in spare time.
some notes:
a. I didn't take out the exhaust mani. I just unbolted it and pushed it back, the vibration damper gives enough play to keep it out of the way.
b. make sure you torque up the water pipe/thermostat BEFORE you re-install the head. the accessory bracket does a great job of getting in the way.
c. don't drop a fuel rail bolt behind the intake manifold when you're putting it back on.
d. the PCV system was almost certainly designed by Satan.
e. Have a system to keep track of where bolts/nuts come from. I used labeled quart ziplocks.
f. It will be helpful to have a hand when setting the head (upper and lower sections) in place. It's far from impossible by yourself (cause i did it) but it's kind of a reach and you want to set them on straight.
I really don't know how long total, I worked on it when I got home from work, and some on the weekends. I think I started on it two weeks ago but like I said I did it in spare time.
some notes:
a. I didn't take out the exhaust mani. I just unbolted it and pushed it back, the vibration damper gives enough play to keep it out of the way.
b. make sure you torque up the water pipe/thermostat BEFORE you re-install the head. the accessory bracket does a great job of getting in the way.
c. don't drop a fuel rail bolt behind the intake manifold when you're putting it back on.
d. the PCV system was almost certainly designed by Satan.
e. Have a system to keep track of where bolts/nuts come from. I used labeled quart ziplocks.
f. It will be helpful to have a hand when setting the head (upper and lower sections) in place. It's far from impossible by yourself (cause i did it) but it's kind of a reach and you want to set them on straight.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cam-C...motiveQ5fTools
Thanks for any details you can share!
Tracy
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