PCV done, car won't start
A little frustrated here. PCV done without any major hang-ups, Everything back together,yes, all the vacuums and sensors. Now engine cranks over, has fuel to the rail, yes, the coil is connected. I swear there is nothing wrong here. Is there some code that needs resetting or something? If this happened to you please reply. It's gonna break my heart (and the bank) to see this brick on a wrecker. Thanks. BTW '95 850 N/A
This happened to me a while ago...
I actually messed up by putting the bracket that holds the pcv lines in between the manifold and the block instead of on top of the manifold where it belonged.
Here is my thread
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...t-start-49946/
I actually messed up by putting the bracket that holds the pcv lines in between the manifold and the block instead of on top of the manifold where it belonged.
Here is my thread
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...t-start-49946/
I found it and fixed it. Turns out it was a 3pin plug with half of it bracketed to a mount under the dist. The plug was burnt and brittle, it is totally unrelated to the system, but was strained while lifting the manifold up and out of the way. It's dark in there. Put the three individual wires into their old homes and bingo. Tape it up tight and as long as I know it's there, it's OK . It's my car.
At the risk of jacking my own thread, I'm getting more and more frustrated. After that PCV job and only a few glitches I still have TREMENDOUS pressure in the crankcase. The fill cap is spewing and the dipstick almost blows out of my hand. This whole thing was pretty obvious I thought, but to get no results? The car has no flame trap, no holes in the block are plugged, it doesn't smoke, and it leaks oil like a sieve. Do I have a basket case?
Did you clean the PTC valve?
That often gets overlooked on a PCV job. Also, there are some conflicting diagrams on the house routing to the top of the oil trap and it is possible that they are on backwards unless you noted the original hose positions when you removed them.
...Lee
That often gets overlooked on a PCV job. Also, there are some conflicting diagrams on the house routing to the top of the oil trap and it is possible that they are on backwards unless you noted the original hose positions when you removed them.
...Lee
At the risk of jacking my own thread, I'm getting more and more frustrated. After that PCV job and only a few glitches I still have TREMENDOUS pressure in the crankcase. The fill cap is spewing and the dipstick almost blows out of my hand. This whole thing was pretty obvious I thought, but to get no results? The car has no flame trap, no holes in the block are plugged, it doesn't smoke, and it leaks oil like a sieve. Do I have a basket case?
Thanks, guys. The car is a 95glt 5424 engine, built in mar. 95 the engine #is 58xxxxx so ordered the corresponding kit from FCP. However, the box was about an inch shorter but the hoses fit without too much trouble. I hope I'm not screwed, rspi and it's been a week, but I'm going in there tomorrow. Ozark Lee, this car is N/A does it have a PTC? As for the hose routing, this box has two holes on top. Looking at the engine from the front, the hole on top on the right, the hose goes over to the throttle body, and the other on the left goes through the manifold up to the top of the engine under the cover, right? If these hoses were reversed, would it increase the pressure? Goodbye cam seals and worse, I'm afraid. Currently ISO good cam seal write-up. Thanks
The N/A has no PTC, only the flame trap and I just take that out and toss it. The flame trap's only function for me has been to get clogged up and cause problems.
My N/A cars are not in the driveway at the moment and I'm not sure if either of them will be before dark so I can't really look. On my Turbos you are correct - the port on the left goes to the top of the head and the one on the right goes to the intake snorkel.
...Lee
My N/A cars are not in the driveway at the moment and I'm not sure if either of them will be before dark so I can't really look. On my Turbos you are correct - the port on the left goes to the top of the head and the one on the right goes to the intake snorkel.
...Lee
When I say screwed, I mean you have to get the right part and work on it again. There is a chance that you have to get another part and work on it again, which sucks.
When we got our S70, it had a lot of pressure, it took me about 3 months to figure it out. It was blowing the dipstick out. I replaced the PCV system. About 16 months later the cam seals started leaking and I was worring about the integrity of the motor (2 seals were totally blown out). I did a compression test to see if the motor was bad and building pressure. The compression test turned out ok and I installed new cam seals.
While replacing the seals I learned that someone had used aftermarket seals and a few people claim that after market seals fail a lot faster than OEM seals.
Besides all that, if the PCV system was replaced properly, and you still have a lot of pressure in the motor, you should do a compression test to make sure your motor is in good shape before you keep diging into a motor that may be going bad.
When we got our S70, it had a lot of pressure, it took me about 3 months to figure it out. It was blowing the dipstick out. I replaced the PCV system. About 16 months later the cam seals started leaking and I was worring about the integrity of the motor (2 seals were totally blown out). I did a compression test to see if the motor was bad and building pressure. The compression test turned out ok and I installed new cam seals.
While replacing the seals I learned that someone had used aftermarket seals and a few people claim that after market seals fail a lot faster than OEM seals.
Besides all that, if the PCV system was replaced properly, and you still have a lot of pressure in the motor, you should do a compression test to make sure your motor is in good shape before you keep diging into a motor that may be going bad.
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