Hi all, very sorry if this is a repost. I was searching the forum for a list of items to look for when purchasing an 850 but haven't been able to find one.

I'm in the market for an 850 wagon, hopefully a turbo. The catch is I can't really afford to spend over $3k so the cars I am coming across tend to have some quirks. I'm just wondering what common issues there are with the 850 line, and if there are any major items to pay close attention to while shopping.

Thanks for the help!

 

These items are at the top sticky https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/hot-topics-helpful-information-how-diy-repairs-26114/

Specifically these threads (part of the above sticky):

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/buyers-guide-looking-buy-volvo-850-s70-look-thread-13678/

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/new-volvo-850-owners-read-important-thread-also-applies-s-v70s-9266/

If you tell the forum some more specifics: what City are you in, intended use of car, and some basic info on the cars you are looking at, there are many members here with a lot experience and very willing to help.

I have been a member for some months and am actually looking myself.

 

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-Buyer-s-Guide

Some more info @ SwedeSpeed

 

Thanks....I'm looking for an 850 Turbo Wagon in the CA Bay Area. A looked at a 95 the other day and walked away due to obvious signs of collision damage, but I'm going to look at a 97 with 141k miles later today.

So far it looks like I should be particularly concerned with:
-Timing Belt
-Suspension (shocks, struts)
-A/C
-ABS module

Are there any other issues I should be especially on the lookout for?

 

You should print what rspi wrote and take / keep with you. Yes, when I bought mine 8 months ago and now that I am back in the market, there are many at around 140k miles, obviously just around the Timing Belt change interval. I have seen several with 170k or 180k with timing belt overdue. Many people DIY it for about $ 300, while independent shops charge about $ 600. Their pricing should reflect that.

1996 or 1997, almost all of them have the ABS module to be fixed. Most of these cars also have the CEL light on, many on O2 sensor-related issues. Almost all I have seen need the PCV serviced (DIY about $ 150, shops vary $300-$500).

Shocks/struts: to do them right, it cost about $ 500-600 DIY and double that for the Indy shop.

Good tires for turbo cars will cost about $ 600.

If sellers do not disclose these issues, good. Expect to find them during your inspection and use them to discount the selling price.

I think that for $ 3000 you should be able to get something very decent, but not trouble-free. I would budget $ 1000 for DIY or $ 2000 for the Indy shop to do Stage 0.

Use rspi's list as a guide to help you. Run VIN through the Carfax as well.

 

If you find one that has not had the evaporator changed, it will need to be at some point. Not sure what the cost is now, but I'm guessing around $1500. It's a lot of work. My son in law has done three of them now and said he would do it for about $800 labor only if you supply the parts.

 

So I just got a 1997 850 GLT back from inspection. It has 143,000 miles and although there are several things wrong, most are little. The big issues are:
-PS Rack is leaking
-Timing belt needs to be changed

The owner wants $3200 and will not back down anymore on the price. I've been kicking this over all day and still can't decide: should I pull the trigger or pass?

 

I don't know the SF market, but here in the North-East that's too much, maybe 2-3 times more than what others are being sold for. Steering rack is a major handicap.

 

NOT. If you don't have a good poker face, don't meet them in person anymore unless they have agreed on a price over the phone.

I'm sorry to hear that. NADA guides states that the car should cost $3,950 if it's clean and being sold by a dealer. If sold by a private party, clean trade in is the price you should pay, $2,275 minus needed repairs.

It is very normal in the great USA for people to express their NEED FOR GREED by asking to much but I say, offer $2,000 and tell them that's all you can pay when you have to go a soak $1,500+ in the car the day after you purchase it. Check the cost of the rack repair before you offer them that.

Again, give them your name and number so they can call you in a few days to take your offer.

 

Thanks again to everyone for all the help! I decided to pass on the previously mentioned car and am still looking.

Please, let me know if anyone is selling an 850 turbo in good condition!

 

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2161476794.html

$2000