Proactive Tune Up
#1
Proactive Tune Up
I bought a '95 850 (110K miles) last summer for my son and, with the replacement of the rear seal, it has been very reliable. I am thinking, however, that I should replace the ignition bits and filters so I can establish a starting point for future maintenance. What of the following, and any additional things you would check, would you replace? And where is the best place to buy this kind of replacement parts? (ebay has tune up kits, and I have had good luck with eeuroparts.com).
plugs
plug wires
rotor
distributor cap
PCV valve
hoses
belts (which ones? How do I inspect the timing belt?)
air filter
what other filters?
CPS
Anything I can ignore or should add to the list?
Thanks,
JM
plugs
plug wires
rotor
distributor cap
PCV valve
hoses
belts (which ones? How do I inspect the timing belt?)
air filter
what other filters?
CPS
Anything I can ignore or should add to the list?
Thanks,
JM
#2
RE: Proactive Tune Up
plugs
plug wires
rotor
distributor cap
PCV valve
hoses
air filter
Also replace fuel filter.
To check the timing belt remove the timing cover and see what the belt looks like look for cracks and dryrotting. If there is any cracks in the accessories belt replace as well.
The PCV is called a flame trap on non turbo cars.Turbo cars do not have a servicable setup.
For the hoses replace the vaccum lines that are very hard.They need to be flexable.When they get hard they will start cracking causing vaccum leaks.
If the coolant hoses are very soft replace them.
plug wires
rotor
distributor cap
PCV valve
hoses
air filter
Also replace fuel filter.
To check the timing belt remove the timing cover and see what the belt looks like look for cracks and dryrotting. If there is any cracks in the accessories belt replace as well.
The PCV is called a flame trap on non turbo cars.Turbo cars do not have a servicable setup.
For the hoses replace the vaccum lines that are very hard.They need to be flexable.When they get hard they will start cracking causing vaccum leaks.
If the coolant hoses are very soft replace them.
#3
RE: Proactive Tune Up
I use NGK plugs and wires on my Japanese vehicles. I use Bosch on my European vehicles. I use Bosch Copper plugs -- not for performance reasons, but because I have heard rumors of the tips of Platinum plugs breaking off on turbocharged engines that have run lean on fuel.
I purchase tune-up parts at local independent import parts store.
I use distributor cap and rotor with brass/copper inserts -- not aluminum -- such as OEM or
http://www.napaechlin.com/
Recommended service interval of replacing timing belt is 70K miles.
I have had good results with NAPA/Gates and Goodyear hoses and belts.
Also, consider flush of automatic trans fluid.
Also, consider changing anti-freeze. Don't let anti-freeze protection drift too far past 25F below zero. It loses its ability to cool engine, if water mixture isn't close to 50/50. I use OEM thermostat.
Also, consider bleeding the brake fluid.
I use Hastings Premium Oil Filter with
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx
I purchase tune-up parts at local independent import parts store.
I use distributor cap and rotor with brass/copper inserts -- not aluminum -- such as OEM or
http://www.napaechlin.com/
Recommended service interval of replacing timing belt is 70K miles.
I have had good results with NAPA/Gates and Goodyear hoses and belts.
Also, consider flush of automatic trans fluid.
Also, consider changing anti-freeze. Don't let anti-freeze protection drift too far past 25F below zero. It loses its ability to cool engine, if water mixture isn't close to 50/50. I use OEM thermostat.
Also, consider bleeding the brake fluid.
I use Hastings Premium Oil Filter with
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx
#4
#5
If you can't determine the last time the following were done, I'd do them:
Timing belt - every 75k
Water pump - every other timing belt change
Oil and filter
serpentine belt (inspect - glazed? Cracks? etc)
plugs and wires
air filter
hoses (inspect. Any soft or spongy places?
vacuum lines (any dried out? Cracked? etc)
Check the coolant with test strips or a bulb tester to see if it's still good
Look at the brake fluid - see if it looks/smells burnt, etc. You can test it with strips, too, IIRC. Flush the coolant and/or brake fluid if they are not strong enough or test too 'worn'
Inspect the brakes. Pads and rotors?
Pull the wheels off. Look at ball joints, tie rod ends, suspension bushings, brake hoses.
Look at the PCV system. Common failure on 850s.
Is your check engine light on? Pull any codes and investigate
FCP has some good videos on their Youtube page:
https://www.youtube.com/user/fcpgroton
Robert (rspi) has plenty as well:
RSpi007 - YouTube
Timing belt - every 75k
Water pump - every other timing belt change
Oil and filter
serpentine belt (inspect - glazed? Cracks? etc)
plugs and wires
air filter
hoses (inspect. Any soft or spongy places?
vacuum lines (any dried out? Cracked? etc)
Check the coolant with test strips or a bulb tester to see if it's still good
Look at the brake fluid - see if it looks/smells burnt, etc. You can test it with strips, too, IIRC. Flush the coolant and/or brake fluid if they are not strong enough or test too 'worn'
Inspect the brakes. Pads and rotors?
Pull the wheels off. Look at ball joints, tie rod ends, suspension bushings, brake hoses.
Look at the PCV system. Common failure on 850s.
Is your check engine light on? Pull any codes and investigate
FCP has some good videos on their Youtube page:
https://www.youtube.com/user/fcpgroton
Robert (rspi) has plenty as well:
RSpi007 - YouTube
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