My mechanic talked me into changing over my Wagon with 130,000 on it. I never did any research first. Now I realize some people experience various problems. A few days later after a cold night car wouldn't start. Car had to be towed down the street -- luckily -- to shop. Mechanic gives complete tune up to the sum of 350 dollars and there was water in Distributor cap and I guess some oil too he now says. HE finished the job, put in fuel filter, car still sputtering when left shop. Then car has puddle of oil this morning after warming up and seems shot for the moment. Looks like the Rear Cam Seal? Could the reaction to the Synthetic push the PCV system over the edge thereby creating the pressure to blow that seal. And most importantly what should I do now? Should I get the replacement PCV kit and have him replace that seal and the Breather Kit and stay synthetic. Should I go back to Dino. Is it too late. Should I be expecting a RMS leak too now? Thanks for any feedback. I should have done some research I would have never done it after the even few stories I have read! Update some kind members at Matthews Volvo Site have recommended replacing that cam seal and immediately performing a PVC backed up pressure test and if PVC is that clogged to make sure to relieve pressure temporarily by securing dipstick in a raised position until PCV work can be done. Can a switch to Synthetic immediately push a PCV system to failure?

Volvo 850 Wagon 130,000

 

Switching to synthetic oil does not cause problems.

 

I'm just wondering if for example if I had a vehicle that was 90% PCV breather clogged [where ever the sludge might accumulate] that switching to Synthetic abruptly could lead to a release or removal of sludge that might be the "straw that broke the PCV camel's back?

I haven't had the slightest problem with my ignition or engine system for a long while if ever.

Now a week after the switch I have a puddle of oil coming from one or the other or both rear cam seals?

I think it is not cut and dry...

Maybe there are proper preparatory moves to make before a switch after 130,000?

For example Seafood treatment.

HA hA did you think I missed that computer generated typo?

PCV inspection and treatment...

Now how should we approach this conversion that I am referring to?

I know how: It consists of awakening the inner mechanic in me and man-ing up to the situation...

Believe me I will be ordering tools come spring but I live in a cold Climate with no garage... Vermont...

Thank you for listening...

 

If the PCV was that clogged, it needed service anyway. I would replace it, clean the ports and replace the seal. You can switch from regular to synthetic anytime you want. There is no special prep procedure.

 

You should never have let your PCV get that bad!! That to me is the worst thing you could do to your car honestly (second would be letting your heater core blow on you ).

Do the PCV now or you will only let it get worse. Last thing you want is the rear main seal deciding to give on you. There is nothing wrong with running synthetic in these cars (better actually). After fixing a problem with my turbo by replacing it, I am running 0W-20 synthetic and I now have no external leaks like before (leaked around crank seal) and it isn't burning a single drop of oil.

Also as ES6T said there is no procedure, but you should have done the PCV first then changed to synthetic to start cleaning the engine of sludge.

Forgot to say this car has 187,000. Miles don't matter.

 

Not sure if I agree that older 850s will be happy moving to synthetic oil with older seals. My experience was I started a drip leak out of the rear main seal as soon as I wend to synth at 150K, then by going back to "high mileage" dino the leak stopped. (850T now has 200K+ on it). That said, maintaining the PVC has nothing to do with choice of oil, so best to keep that serviced. Personally I don't see a lot of upside of changing over on older cars. Volvo blocks are good for 300K+ and tend to be bleeders, so just change oil+filter regularly (ie 3-5K). I'd also advise using OEM filters vs Walmart (I buy in bulk from FCP)

 

Of course if your seals are shot then you should replace them. Nothing wrong with using a good Dino oil either, but synthetic is a better oil. We have moved past the age of Dino oil. One must move with change and adapt to things every day.

I learned a lot about oil from this website; Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy

Plus synthetic is as cheap as Dino oil.

 

I'm not saying that switching to synthetic caused your problems, but it CAN cause problems, especially with oil leaking/burning. Its the same thickness (technically) but it appears to be thinner than mineral oil so it tends to leak more and lubricate better.

 

You should blame the oil. Running on dino for years then switching to synth can cause this. Synth can make its way around old seals, bet if you went back to dino you would be fine.