Rear main seal + PCV + rear O2 sensor
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Rear main seal + PCV + rear O2 sensor
just drove 1100 miles, checking fluid levels before and during the trip. for the first time since i've owned the car, it had low motor oil. filled it up with 2 quarts, drove around town for a week and then the "check engine" light came on. it's the rear O2 sensor. but the bad news is that the rear main seal is blown. not sure why this happened as the car has ONLY 65,000 miles on it (1997--bought it at 51,000 miles 2 years ago). from what i've read on the forum it seems like it could have been a clogged pcv system or just from drying out from not being used that much. in any case, i'll probably get the RMS replaced soon by a reputable mechanic (he quoted $1300 and is recommended by many people/reviews) as i figure i'll have this car for another 200,000+ miles. i've already replaced the timing belt.
Main questions: what else should I have replaced if they're gonna do the RMS? I would assume PCV. does the rear O2 sensor have ANYthing to do with this or can that wait? is the O2 sensor an easy repair that I can do on my own--don't have too many tools and not too mechanically inclined compared to everyone on this forum but I can figure some things out.
thanks a lot,
oren
Main questions: what else should I have replaced if they're gonna do the RMS? I would assume PCV. does the rear O2 sensor have ANYthing to do with this or can that wait? is the O2 sensor an easy repair that I can do on my own--don't have too many tools and not too mechanically inclined compared to everyone on this forum but I can figure some things out.
thanks a lot,
oren
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Glen Ellyn, IL
Odds are good that the RMS blew because the PCV is clogged, so go ahead and change it. You can search for the PCV test scenarios: (1) smoke from the dipstick tube and (2) inflating a balloon.
The O2 sensor is not related to the RMS. It easy to change, and I just finished this on another thread not 3 minutes ago, so I'll just quote myself:
The O2 sensor is not related to the RMS. It easy to change, and I just finished this on another thread not 3 minutes ago, so I'll just quote myself:
Replacing the sensor is a simple task; it’s essentially a bolt with a wire harness coming off of it. The sensors are mounted on the exhaust pipe in front of and behind the catalytic converter. You’ll want to soak it with PB Blaster a day or two (sometimes more) before you jump on it.
IPD sells a special wrench to take it off, but you may not need it.
http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...729&V_ID=12311
Some replace them as a set, but you can get by with changing one if only one is throwing a code. The purpose of the rear O2 sensor is to determine if the catalytic converter is working properly.
Make sure you get one specific to your car; a generic sensor isn't really appreciated by Volvo's.
IPD sells a special wrench to take it off, but you may not need it.
http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...729&V_ID=12311
Some replace them as a set, but you can get by with changing one if only one is throwing a code. The purpose of the rear O2 sensor is to determine if the catalytic converter is working properly.
Make sure you get one specific to your car; a generic sensor isn't really appreciated by Volvo's.
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in regards to the PCV--it is blowing smoke when the car is idling but i checked it at the mechanics using a vacuum hose connected to a gauge and it was still negative. the mechanic said that as long as it's not in the positive range the PCV system is still ok. what do you think?
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From: New Zealand
my pcv was blocked last week. It was spitting oil everywhere but only when i was really on the gas. No problem showed at idle. I think the general consensus is if you are questioning whether its time to do the PCV, just do the PCV. For $150 in parts, its good piece of mind especially if you blew a RMS.
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