First jack up the car safely and put on jackstands.Then remove the wheel.Remove the nut on the end of the Axle which you will need a 32mm socket I beleive.Next Remove the outer tierod.Which I think is a 18mm.Then remove the bolt for the lower balljoint.You will need a 15mm socket and a 13mm wrench.Also it will help if you remove the sway bar link.It will also help some if you undo the ABS sensor wire from its holders.Then push down on the lower control arm to remove the lower balljoint from the hub.Then pull out on the hub to back the axle out of the hub.Once that is done then you can remove the axle.The drivers side you can use a screw driver and put it between the axle and the trans. to pop the axle out. The passenger side(rightside of car) you will need to remove the support bracket that holds the axle in.It is 2 12mm bolts.Then the axle will slide out.


Hope this helps somebody!!

 

If you intend to just raise one side of the car because you are working with only one of the axles, it is best to remove the sway link before you raise the car. Turn the wheel as far to one side so you can acces and remove the sway link.

I also read somewhere that you should not remove both axles at the same time. Tech could confirm if this is true.

 

On the 850 you can remove both axles without any problems at all.

Only the newer cars are like that and only some of them.

 

On my '97 850 wagon, the front axle nut was 36 mm.

 

Hello Mr. Tech,

Greetings from Chicagoland.

I always appreciate your expertise, thank you.

Just wanted to share my experience on replacing cv-joint boot and ball joints, it might help someone who's trying to do the same repair. Some contents may be a repetition from my past posts.

One day I found a torn cv-joint boot on passenger side on my car ('94 850 Turbo T5 Sedan, 143,000 plus miles). Luckily, I found it in an early stage, so I decided to replace it with a new boot. This turned out to be a nightmare. As I tried to remove the circlip that holds cv-joint to the axle, I broke the tangs of it and there was no way to remove it. I used all kinds of methods, only to find despair. So, I decided to disconnect the drive shaft and decided to put the boot from the opposite side. After all, I managed to replace both outer & inner boots and I was relieved when done. I want to stress that if someone needs to replace cv-joint boot, he/she must make sure not to break the tangs on the circlip or it'll stay there forever.

When disconnecting the driveshaft, some transmission fluid leaks out, so at least a quart of Dexron-3/Mercon is imperative (mine leaked about a half quart). Haynes manual calls for metal adhesive when putting the outer driveshaft spline back to the hub, and I was not sure if this was an absolute necessity. I used a bit of thread locker just in case.

As for the ball joints, the clamp bolt on my car was absolutely frozen to the hub due to corrosion. I had to abuse it with a portable torch, a can of PB Blaster, a hammer and a chisel. After about 3 hours of violence on each side, the bolt finally gave up but it was a pain. When a person decides to use a torch, he/she needs to put some form of heat insulation (I used folded aluminum foil) between ball joint and cv-joint boot, as the cv-joint boot is in such a close proximity to the ball joint and it might melt if care is not taken. Getting the ball joint out was another pain, as metal-to-metal contact between the shank and the hub was so tight. Again, my hammer + chisel violence did the job. By the way, some 850's have steel control arm which does not have a replaceable ball joint, while others, like mine, have aluminum arm with replaceable ball joints. This can be checked by the VIN number.

After replacing many front-end parts & hardware and had an alignment done at Volvo, the handling improved noticeably.

Thank you once again for your help.

Best regards,


JPN

 

The dealer told me that my axle seal was leaking transmission fluid. If i take the axle out, is the seal right there that i can change it or is it more complicated?

Thanks

 

It should be right there.

 

And make sure to have a quart of Dexron-III/Mercon and top-off whatever is lost during the procedure. A funnel with flexible extension is extremely helpful.


JPN

 

My Chiltons manual calls for the same metal adhesive. I couldn't find any off-the-shelf adhesives at the auto parts store that were specifically for such an application; and the sales reps had no clue what I needed. Any other recomendations besides the the thread locker? I was thinking RTV silicone.

 

Hi There,

Greetings from Narita, Japan.

The stuff I used is as follows:

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...locker_RED.htm

An adhesive may not be an absolute necessity. Moderator Tech (the top dog of this forum) once told us thatan adhesiveis called out because sometimes the splines on the drive axle do not exactly match and may be a bit loose. If yours doesn't have any play/looseness, I believe you can get by without an adhesive. I personally used the above thread locker, just enough to cover circumference of the splined shaft, not much.

I hope this helps.


JPN

 

When I changed out the front wheel bearings about 6 mo. ago, instead of removing the strut assembly I disconnected the lower end of the A arm. While changing out
the axles, (due to torn cv boot) I am opting to do the same again instead of hammering away at the ball joint as mentioned above. I do intend to replace the torque
once bolts this time though on the A frames, as last time I reused the same ones.

 

the greaseing of the splines for the axles prevents a pinging noise on garage shifts IE: PtoR PtoD, it kinda pops, no big deal wont hurt anything just annoying. When i remove the axles i take the strut loose and the brake caliper loose. i dont take the ball joint loose. takes to much time.

 

That was a big NO NO according to Volvo. They wanted you to use the loctite.

I don't take the caliper loose when I take it loose from the strut.

 

the reason i take the caliper loose is not to put strain on the line. most cars your doing this job on are a little older, and the lines tend to crack a bit.

Actually there is a new grease that comes with the wheel/hub assemblys that your suppose to put on the splines the prevent the noise. However there was a TNN for that particular noise i beleive for S60's and maybe 80's that was a green metal adheisive. really good stuff.. the grease that comes with the hubs now may be for more of a corrosion issue tho.. so the axles dont seize in the hub.. as you know. that can be a pita..

 

Yes I know that.
We told the Rep we were using the Silicon Brake grease before the TNN came out and boy did he flip a wig on the service manager then the entire shop!!!!

 

haha thats funny, because really the grease does the job and its easier to get the axle out if you need to at a later date, i always use the grease, its not the brake grease tho, its a brown grease. Also food for thought, anytime i take a new one apart, such as for a trans or such, all the cars have the same grease in the splines. so volvo installs that grease at the factory.. so i really dont see the huge deal..

 

Its not really a huge Deal anymore I guess!! LOL
I kind of ignore it sometimes anyways. The rules I mean. Im not at a Dealer anymore but most of the time I still work like I am.
I just did 2 motors in the last week. 1. a 99 S80 T-6 and today a 98 S70 Non-turbo.
But I put every bolt and cover back on like it came from the factory.
I believe in doing it right.
Well with a few minor exceptions of course.

 

yeah i know what you mean, i really do try to put every single bolt back where it goes, but sometimes theres that 1 bolt that you take out that takes 20min and your like, thats not going back.. lol that 98 non turbo you did was a money making job. those are really nice and easy going.. makes for a good day. i have done 2 3.2l motors, those are horriable, There blowing the cam seals out spewing oil all over. i have also been doing a few trannys lately.

 

The T-6 was just as easy as the Non-turbo.
They were both money makers. The T-6 was a customers car the 98 was one of our cars that are going on the lot.

 

Hey guys.. sorry to interrupt....

Im getting a nasty clicking sound from my D side front corner.. Which I assume is the cv joint. At first i guessed it was the steering rack.. but logic would suggest the CV because it only makes the clicking noise while in motion.. That said..

1)How can i confirm this?
2)where can I buy new ( or used, and if so.. good idea or poor idea? )
3)Should i do both sides or just the offending axle?
4)Above mentions metal adhesives etc.. is this just when replacing boot only?

Thanks!