If it is clicking I will bet the boot is half or all the way gone and it is dry. You need an axle now. Get an axle and install it no need for the adhesive.

 

Thanks again Tech.. so at this point.. ive inspected the p side... and the boot is torn.. but the noise is coming from the D side.. so i will just replace both full axles.. Do they just pop right out or do I need the removal tool from IPD.. or hammer at them? OR is it a non issue now?

 

Just trying to help.

Increase the image size so that you can see the whole thing. Still working on a few things.


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Just trying to help. Again.

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Some times the axles will come out pretty easy other times they are a pain.

 

Would you guys suggest I take this to a dealership, independent shop, or cvj specialist?

How much is fair for a 1998 S-70 T-5? Both sides I assuming.

 

Your axles or ones from them?

 

DONT MESS WITH THE BALL JOINT! SUPER EASY WAY
1. Remove wheel
2. remove axle end nut
3. loosen brake hose holder so you can swing hub/brake out of way
4. pull out abs sensor (if i remember correctly)
5. SIMPLE PART- REMOVE THE 2 INNER A-ARM bolts at the subframe
6 Pull the whole hub/brake/a-armassembly outward to free the outer axle end
7. IF passenger side, you will need to take off the center support cap too (1 min off, 1 min on later work)
8.slip out axle assembly, slip in new one and re-assemble in reverse..

on reassembly, you might need a phillips screwdriver to help youpull up a-arm back in line so you can push the 2 big bolts back thru .

THIS SUPER SIMPLE axle swap was given me by a Volvo Master Tech (and fellow mustang nut) after i spent 2 days trying to loosen a sticky ball joint!
Using this process, turned the entire process into a 45 min per side job, counting jacking it up!

PS, DONT rebuild a CV, just replace the axle assembly...cheap rebuilt item available at most mainline parts stores..shop around, most are rebuilt by same folk... so-called orig volvo is just a waste of $$$$.
Rich in NC

 

The only thing you have to watch is sometimes it will throw the Camber out enough to wear he tires doing it that way.
So it would be a good idea to mark everything really good before removing it and installing it.

I do it that way as well when the balljoint won't come loose.

 

Hi tech!..email me direct sometime.. i see you have a mustang too! (rdb_liberty@hotmail.com)..
really it is hard to screw up the front settings unless there are offset bushings in the a-arms. pulling the bolts out at the subframe really dont change anything...maybe i ought to edit the post to clarify that...
BTW, i am putting a new94R front bumper with foglight holes on my 94 850.. any idea if that year is prewired, since i think all 94 850s have rear fogs? (hope hope- been messing with 'stangs too long!!)

 

It should all be prewired. Look on your bumper or up close to the fender from behind the bumper and look for wiring just hanging there.
Also look behind the blank plugs next to the headlight switch the plug should mounted to the back of the blank plate.

But you will have to add 2 relys under the dash and replace the headlight with one from a car with fogs.(A 960 one works as well)

 

I have a Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon. I noticed that when I am accelerating there is a vibration. I am assuming that it is one of three things, the wheel bearing, axle or both. I wanted to know if there is anyone out there that could help me figure this out? I went the to the Junk Yard and found a 2000 V70. I noticed the the axle is different, but I was wondering if I changed out the V70 axle and wheel bearing would it work on my car? I was looking around and notice that they are almost the same beside a few small things. From one Volvo Love to another Thank you very much.


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Hi. I am in the midst of replacing the left CV Axle. It looks like a universal type joint in the inner boot portion next to transmission. It separated from the outer portion of the Axle. How do I remove this inner part of the axle. I tried popping out with screwdriver but it did not come out. Seems to move slightly but I don't want to cause a worse problem. Should I apply more pressure or use a pry bar to remove? Thanks.

 

Use a prybar to pop it out.

 

Hey guys - my left CV boot is shot.... torn and the lubricant is everywhere.

They want to charge $225 to replace the half axle at the shop.... but from what i'm reading, I think I can do this myself.

Can I get a used one? I can find one for like $30 vs. new for $80. And at this point, I need to save the money... if I can.

I have a Haynes manual which describes the job pretty vaguely.... at least to me.... you guys know of a place online that has a "how-to" on the half axle?

-Dave

 

Tech,
I have a 95 wagon and I have searched and searched for prewiring but come up empty handed. I have even pulled the headlight switch out, the blank out the front speaker out searching. The plug is yellow and since I have the T-5R next to it I can compare harnesses. This I can say, they are different. There is not a plug coming out of the harness inside the car where there is on in the T-5R. And, the actual plugs for the fogs have eluded me too. One think I noticed when I was swapping engines was that the two engine harnesses were different as to where it grounds on the body and the front harness section for the headlights. On the 850 it was two parts with a socket mounted to the drivers headlight bucket by the battery. On the T-5R it was all one piece. Looks like I am going to have to wire them manually.

 

I sure wish the process of removing the cv axle was nice and tidy like your directions!!! My personal journey with this job was one of the nastiest, dirty, and greasy jobs. Granted my inner and outer boots blew out and I overlooked the plugging the tranny case when pulling the axle out. OOPSIE!! Nothing a few rolls of heavy duty paper towels and some kitty litter couldn't handle.
Thanks for the help.

norga norga
1998 v70t5

 

Ok, did this job today and have a few things to add.... LF half axle, torn outside CV boot, 1995 Volvo 850 GLT Wagon...

1. The Haynes manual sucks.... I don't think it was at all helpful on this job, nor has it been much help to me in it's lifetime.... I need to find a GOOD manual.

2. The easier way to do this is to disconnect the two bolts at the A-arm and swing it all to the side (I bungeed to the side of the wheel well). Remove Half Axle nut (36mm)....Half axle comes out of the hub and you've got it hanging out of the tranny. Just have some brake cleaner on hand afterwards because you're bound to get grease and gunk all over the rotor. BONUS TO THIS METHOD: You avoid the ball joint all together! Just inspect it and move on.

3. You need a 36mm socket for the Axle Nut -- and 18mm box wrench along with a 3/4" ratchet (what I had and it worked) for the A-Arm bolts and nuts they are different sizes, believe it or not.

4. Getting the half axle out out of the transmission can be a B. We jammed at it, tried to get leverage with a screwdriver, breaker bar, crowbar, nothing worked. Since the boot was torn there was grease everywhere so getting behind the half axle with a screwdriver near the tranny was a bit tricky as it kept slipping off, plus the transfer case is there along with the car's subframe, space is limited and you can't get a whole lot of leverage.... finally, we jacked the car up some more... as high as we could get it.... got a crowbar in from underneath it (THIS IS KEY!) and used a rubber mallet to tap the crowbar in.... once in there, a few good taps will push it right out of the tranny. This took us a couple of hours to achieve. But the point is, you'll get it out if you pound UP, don't worry about leverage or pulling at it, just get in from underneath, keep tapping upwards. If you're replacing the half axle and the seal, there's not really much more that you can damage. So bang away get at it!

5. Keep the car in park, the half axel locks in (moving slightly from side to side as you attempt to turn it), if you place it in neutral it'll move freely.

6. While getting at the half axle by banging at it and wedging something in there to pop it out, it's inevitable that you'll ding the seal around the half axel (a $6 part). I tend to lean on the side that says "well, you're replacing it anyway right? why wouldn't you, it's right there."

Well, I didn't think about getting the seal before we did the job. God, I hate not being prepared, it's saturday, noon, what am I going to do? Advanced Auto Parts stocks it!!! They had to get it from another store, so I went out and got lunch, and an hour later they had it for me... $6.49!!

The seal they have looks a little different (and yellow), it's kind of built like a boot a little more and is packed with grease on the inside. But fit great, and really seemed to work well.

7. Interestingly enough, I found a slightly used LF half axle from a 1998 S70 for $13 (great deal right?), so I was installing that into my car to replace the torn one. It fit great!! Was apparently the same part for that model and year as well, HOWEVER, the axle nut (on the hub, in the middle of the rotor - the 36mm nut) is different!! It fits through the hub nicely and isn't too long or anything, perfect fit... except a little too wide for the 850's nut (the bolt is smaller on the 850's, so the nut is too small to go on the S70's).

Went to the junk yards on this saturday afternoon (I stress saturday because honestly, it's tough to find parts on the weekend, most Volvo places are closed, as are most junk yards, and even those that are open are only open until 3 or 4pm... so we're scrambling to find this nut....

Even more interesting, we found one on a V70... so I determined that though the half axle is interchangeable, the 850 has a different axel nut than the S70/V70, which both have the same. Cost me $2, fit onto the axel bolt like butter.

8. You'll need maybe a half-quart or quarter-quart of Dexron III/Mercon transmission fluid because you're bound to lose a little. But if the car is cold when you start the job, you'll lose less fluid. Even if you don't have this on hand, you'll be fine, you don't lose a lot of it (and by the way, fill the transmission fluid through the dip stick.... get a longer funnel for that).

9. We used the "red" locktite stuff from Advanced for the spleens on the hub (the wheel side).

10. Watch those boots, even if it looks good, you might have some small tears near where the little stainless rings are that hold the boots on to the shaft, as it moves, the little metal adjustment piece on the ring (the left over piece from when they put it on there and trim off the rest) this makes contact with the rubber and punches little holes, eventually. I had 2 or 3 small holes where the boot was torn through, they weren't huge (at 1st sight, I couldn't even seem them), but enough for a ton of grease to be everywhere. I probably drove with this boot for 3 months, so relieved to have it fixed.


If you don't fix a CV boot and the joint gets nasty or runs out of lubricant.... are you putting your hub and/or tranny at risk? What happens is that seizes, fails, ???

Thanks for the help guys, couldn't have done any of it without the research this forum provides me.

Add "Half Axle" to my resume.

 

I am a person that likes pictures when I'm doing something so I searched and found these pictures for replacing the front axles on my T5R.

My question is whether I need a 32 mm or a 36 mm socket for the nut in the hub? Some say one and others say the other.

 

It's a 36mm.... I wrote my response the day I did it. I remember looking for information and hearing about a 32 but found that it was a 36.

I can say that with no doubt at all.